AAV Auxiliary Air Valve Stuff
#1
04-11-2018, 06:24 AM
AAV Auxiliary Air Valve Stuff - Not lik liking it
Hello all...
Yup, me agian. More questions...
So in talking with Grant from Down Under I went ahead and cracked open the AAV sometime ago, took it apart, cleaned and greesed, resealed and put it back in. I was dealing with a stuck/clogged AAV and idle was way high. Way high! That seemed to help. Later, I took it out again and crushed the bulb with the attempt to get the damn thing to reach its max travel and close completely. It worked!!!
Now, I start the car and I still don't like the idle. For 5-10 minutes, from ignition --- which really worries me because I know all of the lubricant /oil is still sitting in the pan --- idle goes way high as and until AAV engages fully traveling its path with the heat of the rail.... Takes a while, burns gas and IMHO is hard on moving parts until oil moves around sufficiently...
I know there is a (more than one) complicated procedure for getting around or eliminating the AAV... Question is, can I just block the inlet in the breather and call it a day??? What would be the harmful effects? Can I just rig something, a semi permanent change, in the OH breather and downsize the opening significantly but not completely? I have tried starting her with it plugged/blocked and she seems to do just fine w/o on start up... What say you?
As usual. Super grateful. Listening, learning, a happy camper. Thanks all!!!
Yup, me agian. More questions...
So in talking with Grant from Down Under I went ahead and cracked open the AAV sometime ago, took it apart, cleaned and greesed, resealed and put it back in. I was dealing with a stuck/clogged AAV and idle was way high. Way high! That seemed to help. Later, I took it out again and crushed the bulb with the attempt to get the damn thing to reach its max travel and close completely. It worked!!!
Now, I start the car and I still don't like the idle. For 5-10 minutes, from ignition --- which really worries me because I know all of the lubricant /oil is still sitting in the pan --- idle goes way high as and until AAV engages fully traveling its path with the heat of the rail.... Takes a while, burns gas and IMHO is hard on moving parts until oil moves around sufficiently...
I know there is a (more than one) complicated procedure for getting around or eliminating the AAV... Question is, can I just block the inlet in the breather and call it a day??? What would be the harmful effects? Can I just rig something, a semi permanent change, in the OH breather and downsize the opening significantly but not completely? I have tried starting her with it plugged/blocked and she seems to do just fine w/o on start up... What say you?
As usual. Super grateful. Listening, learning, a happy camper. Thanks all!!!
Last edited by JayJagJay; 04-11-2018 at 07:59 PM.
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Lucielle (10-27-2021)
#2
04-11-2018, 08:11 AM
Jason,
If you are blocking that AAV inlet 100% and the engine is still running, YA GOT A VAC LEAK somewhere, and a sizable one at that.
With that AAV inlet plugged, and on the HE, the only possible air it can still suck for the idle passage by pass, is via the small hose that goes from that inlet elbow to the distributor cap breather. That will give you maybe??? 150rpm, so the engine will stall. No other choice.
A properly set AAV, that I do, has the COLD idle at approx 850RPM, and it drops to the preset you have at the HOT idle adjuster, within 3 minutes, summer or winter.
The original COLD setting was about 1200rpm, and I hated that also.
Eliminating the AAV is NOT hard, but time consuming.
This is my write up on it, maybe I sent it to you before, dunno, but I also delete the balance pipe.
AAV Removal write up.pdf
Greg in France has a different approach on it, and I like his way a LOT, but he is off touring Italy in his XJS with his wife, so out of range for God knows how long.
If you are blocking that AAV inlet 100% and the engine is still running, YA GOT A VAC LEAK somewhere, and a sizable one at that.
With that AAV inlet plugged, and on the HE, the only possible air it can still suck for the idle passage by pass, is via the small hose that goes from that inlet elbow to the distributor cap breather. That will give you maybe??? 150rpm, so the engine will stall. No other choice.
A properly set AAV, that I do, has the COLD idle at approx 850RPM, and it drops to the preset you have at the HOT idle adjuster, within 3 minutes, summer or winter.
The original COLD setting was about 1200rpm, and I hated that also.
Eliminating the AAV is NOT hard, but time consuming.
This is my write up on it, maybe I sent it to you before, dunno, but I also delete the balance pipe.
AAV Removal write up.pdf
Greg in France has a different approach on it, and I like his way a LOT, but he is off touring Italy in his XJS with his wife, so out of range for God knows how long.
#3
04-11-2018, 08:12 PM
Hey Grant. Hi!
Let me see if I read you right... Well maybe I sho Ulf say this. Since fixing the aav after the car get warm and starts to warm I can stand by and listen to the engine slowly slow,,, down to a normal, maybe, 6 something 700 + maybe. Then it settles out. That's with the aav uncovered and untouched. If I started with the aav covered, it will start up just higher than "normal" idle and drop to the 6-700 +... It's hard to know because of the funky tach... but it feels "normal" and nice. Barely holding the brake, no jump in gear shift, ya know?
Thing is,,, it takes much longer than 3 min or less for the idle to slow. I hate that **** and want it different. What really bothers me is the feeling that when it jumps to start up over 1000+ rpms, that all the oil is in the pan and I hate to think what that doing to things. I need to read your write up, get careful, and do the work!!!
Got my lower valence plate today from Paul's and a lower skid plate and left and right baffles today... finally found the skid and baffles that didn't break the bank and I am stoked to finish the from end. Just got that ONE bad rust spot on the beam under the radiator...
a ways to GO and time to get there
Thanks brother!!!
Let me see if I read you right... Well maybe I sho Ulf say this. Since fixing the aav after the car get warm and starts to warm I can stand by and listen to the engine slowly slow,,, down to a normal, maybe, 6 something 700 + maybe. Then it settles out. That's with the aav uncovered and untouched. If I started with the aav covered, it will start up just higher than "normal" idle and drop to the 6-700 +... It's hard to know because of the funky tach... but it feels "normal" and nice. Barely holding the brake, no jump in gear shift, ya know?
Thing is,,, it takes much longer than 3 min or less for the idle to slow. I hate that **** and want it different. What really bothers me is the feeling that when it jumps to start up over 1000+ rpms, that all the oil is in the pan and I hate to think what that doing to things. I need to read your write up, get careful, and do the work!!!
Got my lower valence plate today from Paul's and a lower skid plate and left and right baffles today... finally found the skid and baffles that didn't break the bank and I am stoked to finish the from end. Just got that ONE bad rust spot on the beam under the radiator...
a ways to GO and time to get there
Thanks brother!!!
#4
04-11-2018, 08:20 PM
Hey Grant. Hi!
Let me see if I read you right... Well maybe I should say this. Since fixing the aav (your tutelage) after the car gets warm and starts to warm I can stand by and listen to the engine slowly sloooow,,, down to a normal, maybe, 6 something 700 + rpm maybe. It settles out. That's with the aav uncovered and untouched. If I started with the aav covered, it will start up just higher than "normal" idle and drop to the 6-700 + rpm... It's hard to know because of the funky tach... but it feels "normal" and nice. Barely holding the brake, no jump in gear shift, ya know? Smooth. I DO want to adjust the dial on the ecu until I find that sweet spot you mentioned. She is drinking gas. Running rich I think.
Thing is,,, it takes much longer than 3 min or less for the idle to slow. I hate that **** and want it different. What really bothers me is the feeling that when it jumps to start up well over 1000+ rpms, that all the oil is in the pan and I hate to think what that doing to things in there. Then, I don't wanna be in there with a lady and the engine roaring.... I need to read your write up, get careful, and do the REAL work like you instruct!!!
Got my lower valence plate today from Paul's and a lower skid plate and left and right baffles today... finally found the skid and baffles that didn't break the bank and I am stoked to finish the front end. Just got that ONE bad rust spot on the beam under the radiator...
a ways to GO and time to get there
Thanks brother!!!
Let me see if I read you right... Well maybe I should say this. Since fixing the aav (your tutelage) after the car gets warm and starts to warm I can stand by and listen to the engine slowly sloooow,,, down to a normal, maybe, 6 something 700 + rpm maybe. It settles out. That's with the aav uncovered and untouched. If I started with the aav covered, it will start up just higher than "normal" idle and drop to the 6-700 + rpm... It's hard to know because of the funky tach... but it feels "normal" and nice. Barely holding the brake, no jump in gear shift, ya know? Smooth. I DO want to adjust the dial on the ecu until I find that sweet spot you mentioned. She is drinking gas. Running rich I think.
Thing is,,, it takes much longer than 3 min or less for the idle to slow. I hate that **** and want it different. What really bothers me is the feeling that when it jumps to start up well over 1000+ rpms, that all the oil is in the pan and I hate to think what that doing to things in there. Then, I don't wanna be in there with a lady and the engine roaring.... I need to read your write up, get careful, and do the REAL work like you instruct!!!
Got my lower valence plate today from Paul's and a lower skid plate and left and right baffles today... finally found the skid and baffles that didn't break the bank and I am stoked to finish the front end. Just got that ONE bad rust spot on the beam under the radiator...
a ways to GO and time to get there
Thanks brother!!!
#5
04-12-2018, 05:51 AM
OK, mud clears a tad.
The AAV is preset, as you know, BUT, the cold idle can be reduced. This is done by CAREFULLY tapping the "top hat" section of the AAV slightly further down into the AAV itself. This is mentioned in the AAV rebuild write up I sent you, I think????
AAV rebuild procedure.pdf
Oil flow in a V12 from the go get, is HUGE and at about 90PSI. The oil pump is HUGE, and flows a massive amount of oil at high pressure, the instant it begins to rotate.
Identical in design to the oil pump in any Automatic Transmission.
The AAV is preset, as you know, BUT, the cold idle can be reduced. This is done by CAREFULLY tapping the "top hat" section of the AAV slightly further down into the AAV itself. This is mentioned in the AAV rebuild write up I sent you, I think????
AAV rebuild procedure.pdf
Oil flow in a V12 from the go get, is HUGE and at about 90PSI. The oil pump is HUGE, and flows a massive amount of oil at high pressure, the instant it begins to rotate.
Identical in design to the oil pump in any Automatic Transmission.
#6
04-12-2018, 06:30 AM
Wow,,, yes to that and good to know about the oil flow... It's a little nerves racking without a working OPressure gauge , ya know? And the top hat, the "overachiever" I am, I put so much JB Weld on the thing when resealing it would take an afternoon and mighty (yet delicate) effort to remove it again.. But maybe that's what I have to do. Do that first and if it doesn't produce the desired result - I can, will and should follow your more complete instructions and just do away with aav, balance and... For me, that is a complicated procedure. Especially the last section... But, not impossible by any means AND I know where to find YA! 😁
This now, the nose end, ac, floor and upholstery, rear end stuff, got some new trail arm bushings, wanna drop the irs,,, what else? Its gunna be an awesome spring. Thankfully, i have no real life ta speak of, lol...
Alright Grant, thank you.... Stay tuned. Pa-Leeeeeeease! haha
This now, the nose end, ac, floor and upholstery, rear end stuff, got some new trail arm bushings, wanna drop the irs,,, what else? Its gunna be an awesome spring. Thankfully, i have no real life ta speak of, lol...
Alright Grant, thank you.... Stay tuned. Pa-Leeeeeeease! haha
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Grant Francis (04-12-2018)
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