Due to a forum post on jag-lovers, and my air bleed pipe leaking, I decided to try and make my own.
So far so good it seems to be working. I'm gettin a thicker hose this week and better clamps this was all the testings to see if it would work.
What interesting is I "fixed" my OEM one and well... a sucking action from the right side was not there it was pushing out water. Mine that I made on the other hand I drained a cup in 10 seconds.

here are the videos links.

 

SMG
I like your setup a great deal, just a note of enquiry, though. Your system's RHS has a T that is connected both to the filler spout and to the radiator top. Are you sure that the radiator top is actually being bled of air/coolant, rather than coolant from the spout being preferentially sucked by the venturi? It might be worth testing with a bit of your transparent pipe between the banjo and the T?
What is for sure is that better bleeding of the radiator is a very good idea, my home-designed system is different from yours, but it bleeds very effectively and certainly helps the cooling system considerably.

 

I thought the same thing,
I know recently there’s been posts going around about what that little stopper does right after the spout.
When I took that out it just started blasting coolant through the top pipe, which possibly might bleed the top of the radiator, but I don’t think the sucking action is powerful enough to overcome that.
I’m thinking it’s just pushing coolant back into the radiator through the banjo. Stuck it back in.
Mind you When i took the video The car wasn’t warmed up at all.
As soon as it hit warming temperatures more flow started to occur towards the tank and it filled up for the most part. This was just testing time I may need to put more coolant in since I lost half of it when the original one exploded last week.

One thing I did notice was, when I had the leak and the system was not getting to regular coolant pressures
My temperature would start to rise.
Yesterday coolant in hoses hard with pressure, 88° Outside
My temp gauge “ which I have on the back right side” which runs a bit hotter then the front.
Was staying around 195-8 Flip on the auxiliary fan and it drops down to about 188.

 

That one-way valve is somewhat of a mystery, as OEM it was and should be, orientated so that coolant can NOT flow to the radiator, only FROM the radiator banjo to the spout. You may have hit on the reason why, which nobody else has been able to explain to date, AFAIK !
The temps are dead-on. Great idea really nicely done.

 

For what it's worth, l have three V12's and all have stainless cathouse spares crosspipes fitted which do not incorporate that valve and l have never had a cooling system issue.
I suspect the need for it in practice did not match the need in theory.

 

HA thanks Greg..
Did some testing today, and no blow outs or temp issues.
Tommow I have a thicker walled hose coming, and also some better clamps , going to clean it all up and tied down and I think I'm good to go.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...SABEgImK_D_BwE

Some nice clamps, well positioned hose retainer clips and get the bends to visually match and I'd say that is a superior setup then the OEM. I like the transparent part to.

 

Agreed. Before I redid my system, neither did I have a valve, and all was absolutely fine. But SMG's setup has larger diameter pipes and a larger diameter venture system. I reckon that the OEM pipes, being far smaller diameter, would not notice the valve's absence - whereas SMG's setup obviously did.