Does anyone have any advice on how to remove a stripped bleed screw from the rear driver side caliper of an 84 XJS?

Also, is it normal after bleeding breaks to not be able to spin the front rotors without a lot of force?

Thanks

 

Do you mean the "hex" portion of the bleeder is rounded off so you can't use a wrench on it, or do you mean the threads are stripped and it will turn but not actually unscrew out of the caliper?

There will be some drag on the rotors from the pads but you should be able to turn the rotor easily with one hand. If not, you have a stuck caliper piston...or a hose problem that won't allow a piston to retract

RTLL

 

Yeah, unfortunately the "hex" part of the screw is rounded off so I can't get a wrench to grab it. Do I have any options?

Hmm, well, I suppose since the calipers are brand new they should be alright. I'm not sure why the calipers are holding onto the rotors so tightly though.

Thanks!

 

jfrog, get yourself some vice grips with teeth on the inside of the jaws. Then, using them pretty tight, let the teeth bite into the bleeder screw and twist it out at that point. Don't forget to apply a little bit of PB Blaster or other penetrant liquid to help the screw move freely.

Another option is if you have say a dremel tool, you can use that to create 2 flat spots opposite each other on the screw and then you can use a wrench at that point to free the screw. If you can't get it at that point, then you will more than likely need to get a new caliper unless you plan on doing a lot of flushing of the caliper due to metal particulates.

If you need more info, let me know.

 

Oh man, I so hope the vice grips or dremel tool work. I just bought this caliper! The last thing I want to do is get another one.
Well, I've already soaked the thing is WD-40 so hopefully it will begin to loosen things up.

Thanks for the help guys!!!!!!

 

Just want to say thanks! The vice grips worked and I'm now able to bleed the caliper.

Thanks again!!!!

 

jfrog, not a problem. Sometimes the old timer tricks do work. Just make sure to get a new bleeder valve installed before you get back on the road. That way, the next time you have to do anything, you won't have to fight like you just did.

Happy driving.

 

Jfrog- if you just got a new caliper, and have the old caliper, you should be able to pull the bleed screw off one of the old calipers to replace the rounded off one. Be sure to re-bleed the brakes after removing the bleed screw. I replaced the rear pads today and that wasn't a big deal. re: front wheels being tight after bleeding - drive the car around the block and then see if the front rotors are real hot and/or smell burning. If so, the brakes are dragging. Try re bleeding the brakes. If that doesn't work, use a pair of large pliers to force the pads wide open, maybe the pistons in the calipers are a bit sticky, even if brand new. If your brake fluid is right to the top, this may cause the fluid to overflow, so might have to suck some out with a turkey baster or syringe. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the advice about getting the bleed screw off the core. Fortunately, I still have the core! Thanks!
sacrider, well, the rear calipers were a big job for me, but that was because I chose to drop the entire rear-end. When I got the car, there was a lot of "gunk" as if something was leaking and being spattered everywhere while the car was being driven. Seeing this, I was worried that not only the rear calipers were leaking but I was afraid the differential seals might have been bad. I went ahead and had the rear differential looked through and I replaced the rear calipers.
I replaced the front calipers as well. On this car, pretty much all of the rubber was gone as far as the calipers went and I had no idea how reliable the calipers themselves were. Having said this, I went ahead and replaced all four calipers and I put new pads on the e-brake calipers.
I think I'll need to try and push the pistons in as far as they can go with the big pliers you were talking about. Right now, it's really hard to even spin the rotors on the fronts. I'm afraid they're going to drag really bad.
I won't have to re-bleed if I just push the pistons in, right? I might just have fluid push back up through the system into the reservoir, correct?
Man, I hope not, I think my wife is getting tired of sitting in the car reading a magazine waiting for me to tell her when to push the pedal and let it up....LOL!!!!!

 

Jfrog - you shouldn't have to bleed the brakes after prying apart the calipers, but if the pedal is mushy afterwards, then bleed again. Did you bleed out all the old fluid? If not, get the wife out to start working the brake pedal and flush all the old fluid.

 

Well, I ran into another problem!
As some of you know, after bleeding the brakes, my front pads were really tight against the rotors. Well, they were so tight that I actually had to remove the calipers again. Of course, with my luck, for some stupid reason after removing the bottom bolt of the passenger side caliper, the friggin' bolt decided to strip on me. Now I have to some how find a replacement for that bolt, remount the caliper, re-bleed the brake system and hope that the front pads are no longer dragging.

To top it all off, I decided to see if the engine would run after sitting for 9 years in the elements of Central California. Guess what? It didn't start, imagine that. It did turn however so at the very least I know the pistons aren't rusted to the cylinder walls. Now, along with the brake problem, I have to figure out why the engine won't start!

Tell me again why we're doing this???.....lol!!!!!