My car is an '87 with the air injection // anti-smog system.

Last weekend I was at the junkyard (again) because the missing '89 XJS re-emerged from hiding. The junkyard was rearranging their inventory.

Someone has been into the car removing lots of parts (hurray-that's what they're there for) including the hood, the A/c, the fuel rail and injectors, radiator and fans. All this made it very easy for me to poke around without many of the obstructions. What I "discovered" is that the air piping that comes up into the "T" that then feeds to both pipes that have the small tubes going down into the exhaust ports appears to be fairly substantial and well attached behind the engine and somewhere under the intake air cleaner box on the "A" bank side.

Question: Is it a complicated and challenging task to take all that off the car? More to the point, am I going to have disassemble half the top of the motor to get this stuff off. I'd like to know before I start what I am in for rather than jumping in blind

At some point I am going to need one of our British friends to help with an idler belt pulley when I get ready to remove the system including the pump.

 

Removing the air injection manifolds is easy; just release the hold downs and pull 'em off together with the 'tee' piece, check valve, and connector hoses. There are various methods of plugging the holes. I tapped 'em and used set screws; others will chime in with alternatives.

The pipe from the air pump to the tee piece runs under the RH exhaust manifold. #13 in the illustration. It's trickier to remove. You could just abandon it in place.

Air Injection Pipes-5.3 Litre - Parts For Series III Saloon | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

As you say, the idler pulley set-up is the bugaboo here in the USA.

Cheers
DD

 

I removed the entire system in about an hour. Then about two hours plugging the holes.

Just pull the pump, hoses, rails, tape off electrical. Hoses / pipes that you can't reach, just leave.

The picture shows how I plugged the holes. I tapped out the holes in the hold downs, put in the screws, then dremeled off the threads to fit hole in the manifold. I reused the same o-rings that where on the pipes. I also used a little RTV for over kill.

There are several other solutions for this, they all work.

Here is a good thread that goes into it in depth.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ete-qs-169274/

Cheers...Jimmy

 

Thanks, the link to the illustration clarified things greatly. Looks like the most difficult thing to get to will be the screws to the pipe holding clips.

 

This is what mine looked like when I finished.

 

Nice!! It really cleans up some of the clutter.

 

can you just make new "hold downs" with no holes and use some gasket maker when installing?

 

Don't see why not. There have been many ways used by members of this forum. If it plugs the holes, go for it.
Good Luck...Jimmy

 

You can also just leave the air pump in place. Bleh. Or you can move the alternator to the air pump position.

 

Why does everyone feel the need to "free up a few horsepower" they will never notice to dump crap into the air and use up their catalytic converters prematurely?

Do you guys throw trash out the window as well to avoid carrying extra weight around?

Sorry for the abrasiveness but there seem to be so many people in this forum that willingly pollute because they are bored and want to have something to modify on the XJS.

 

I never considered that but I like the idea. The alternator is so inaccessible in its original location.

When I do this project I have decided to get some "plugs" from an English car to have everything look as clean as possible.

Sidescroller, noted.

 

I understand your feelings about pollution...however, I drive the jag about 1K miles a year, the pump only works for 45 sec. at start up, my engine code said the pump wasn't working, and it really cleaned up the engine. So I removed mine, and glad I did.

I just pulled the alternator for a cleaning, and it was easy because the pump wasn't in the way.

Also...you don't need the pump as a pulley. You can just use a straight belt for the AC.

The belt I used is Duralast # 17440

Just take out the bolts of the AC comp, tilt it forward to install belt, then tilt back and install the bolts. Belt will be perfect tightness. Others on the forum have done the same.

...Jimmy

 

The belt I used is Duralast # 17440


Just take out the bolts of the AC comp, tilt it forward to install belt, then tilt back and install the bolts. Belt will be perfect tightness. Others on the forum have done the same.

...Jimmy[/QUOTE]

bringing up and old but good thread here.
I have a question about the straight belt. I have tilted the ac compressor before to change the spark plugs and is no easy task to get it back in place and line up the bolt holes and retighten.
my question is how hard is installing a straight belt ? It would seem to be difficult but maybe there is a solution I am unaware of ?