I am working a lot of different parts of the car then it gets me into another part of the car. Should the air pump remain with all the air tubing and controls? Or should the air pump be removed, install the new alternator in the location of the air pump and install a new EFI control unit and wiring?

 

Your legislators will dictate if that pump can go. Emissions testing is like that in some countries, not here.

All mine had the pump ditched, OE idler arm and pulley sourced to satisfy the A/C belt.
Cruise bellows relocated outside the engine bay, and cable joiners etc (The Harley Shop) made connecting simple..
Compact Sanden A/C Comp fitted.
Fuel rail lowered., just because.
All other elkectricery stuff relocated outside the engine bay, again, just because.
110 Amp Bosch Alt in the OE position, and rewired slightly to suit ME.

Efans topped the list, now I can actually see things and get to things.

 

It really depends more on you than anything else.
How original do you want to keep the car? How are your fabricating skills? Can you solve problems on. Your own?
I’ve relocated the A/C compressor with a Tiny Japanese one. eliminated the air pump. ( it doesn’t really clean up the pollution much except on intial cold start up ) and used a modern alternator. On 3 cars so far. But that’s been over a 30 year period.
Here’s what you gain. The engine starts to show itself for the beautiful thing it is. Access to all 12 spark plugs is easy. The valley of death goes away. ( airflow keeps everything from cooking) most smaller alternators are simple one wire connection. Plus they are lighter, They also put out more amperage.
The A/C compressor is both smaller and lighter
I’m guessing but I believe the loss of weight is about 50+ ponds. That helps the car in hard cornering.
The last 2 I didn’t do the hoses my self. I called PIRTEC a hose fabricating company that came to my home and fabricated the hoses for me so everything looked tidy. They had fittings that solved all the complexities and really made it look professional. The great thing is they were less expensive for both the hoses and the installation. I just sat back and watched.

 

My first stage was to disconnect the air pump and remove the air ramp. As Mguar writes, the end of the valley of death in Vee.
I closed the inlets to the intake, see the picture (created by a turner friend).
Over the winter the air pump will go completely away, I will install a 110A alternator.
As for emissions, since this is apparently a US car, then all supplemental air sources (air pump and filter air valve) should close after 45 seconds (except AAV) and the car behaves as if it has no supplemental air .
That is, if the emission control allows a certain time to "warm up" the car, then the legislator probably cannot insist on the presence of an air pump.
I am describing the situation here in Europe, the Czech Republic.

 

Sounds reasonable to me. One of the realities of life is not everyone knows every detail about every car. ( especially inspection officials.). The chance of that official knowing about air pumps is almost non existent.
Then there is the, “ Oh that’s only required in California cars.” The “trick” is to make everything look normal. No open holes, no missing tubes,

 

Due to the age of my car I am no longer required to have emission tests. I removed all of the original radiators and coolers and replaced them. The original cooling fans are replaced with two electric fans. I installed a Sanden A/C compressor, 110 amp Bosch alternator, added a C31526 alternator transistor regulator to keep the alternator charging without using the accelerator to excite the alternator and charge the system at idle. I need to know what pipes can be eliminated, if any wiring or mechanical adjustmets need to be made without the air pump, which ports need to be plugged and what pipes need to stay to send the unused fuel back to the fuel tank, how the charcoal canister still works. The car must start the first time even if it is a little cold out.

 

My work was as follows (see picture).



I used a plug (see my post above) to seal.

4. Now slide the valve out of the hose and you can pull out the tube leading forward to the air pump.
5. You can remove the air pump.
6. If you are going to put a more powerful alternator instead of the pump, you will probably need the following:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224317336952
7. Now I hope I remember correctly, but if you have a Marelli ignition, then you should be fine. If you have a Lucas ignition, you will need a Marelli crankshaft pulley for installing new alternator. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

As for mild winter start, I assume a working 45 second timer along with a working AAV will suffice.

I think, that´s all.