Out of curiosity does anyone know the CFM output of the stock air/smog pump? and could there be any benefit to piping that directly into the rear air balance tube?

I'm trying to justify not taking it out right now as it's quite cold. I've removed the air rails etc and followed Grant's advice to remain hydrated with plenty of...fermented liquid...it went well but the pump ugh seems like too much effort right now.

 

So you kind of mean to use like a mini supercharger?

 

 

None that I can think of

Cheers
DD

 

Maybe? If it actually moved alot of air it could maybe be put to use doing something but then I suppose the main rad fan moves way more air.

Seems like a waste of a functional pump to just throw it out

 

Put a smaller wheel/pulley on it... More boost

 

Any tips for changing the pump? Mine is noisy, and I've got a new one on order.

 

You could make it a whistle. ;-)

 

The best change is to remove it and its horrible piping; makes the V so much more accessible.!
As to the boost idea, the pump only runs for 45 sec at startup, so apart from the fact it would do nothing useful, you would have to fix it so it ran continuously.

 

Agreed.

ALL mine went in the trash bin.

Their amount of actual usable air at any usable pressure is near on zero.

Running one constantly would have it seize up way quicker than they do now.

Not hard to lift out, and FORGET about the 1" pipe running aft under the RH exhaust manifold. It CANNOT be removed with the engine IN the car, unless you cut it up obviously. I strapped mine back out of the way, so it did not short out the alternator +ve terminal, and waited until the engine left the engine bay, then removed it, and gathered up ALL the errant tools dropped into the area over many years.

I replaced the pumps with a Jaguar idler arm and pulley, coz I stole a few as I found them in junk yards etc, and moved on. If you stil find one and the pulley is missing, simply use the pulley from the air pump, THEY ARE THE SAME.

 

The pump is always running, but the outlet valve is open for only 45s.

 

van; that hose is for the GM map sensor, mounted on the right side inlet manifold, it needs a direct non pulsing vac reading!

in the vee the only wires or hoses are for distributor electric and GM vac advance control!

at very rear is oil sender wire, thats it simple and functional!

of course the nightmare hi tension leads, YELLOW!

like Grant; any thing that dont help to run the engine is done away with!