I'm wrapping up the replacement of the canvas on my 1990 XJS. I've been taking my time stretching the canvas. At this point I'm just down to doing the front stapling and molding (should be easy) and the rear window. I've gone through every post I can find, they were extremely helpful. The rear window install has been the step I'm most apprehensive about and going through the posts the details seem to fade out at this part. Does anyone have any tips for cutting, how much excess to start with, installing the new outer seal or pics from this step... ? I've purchased the sealant and primer. At this point it's just taking the jump into doing it. This is definitely a doable job overall if anyone is considering it. Taking your time, having a friend (or brother in my case) to assist with certain steps and looking at past posts are the biggest assets. Also, the one mistake I did make (so far) was not protecting interior and exterior parts when working with the contact cement. Highly recommend as the stuff is drippy and strong.

 

some tips for future people who can’t afford to have a pro do it It’s not the kinda job I enjoy.
-if you buy tan, tape off any canvas near work areas. Every bit of grime attracts to it. Even when you check your hands and they look clean. They are not
- if you’re struggling to get the rear wire tight and under the lip get the top wet, it helps to lubricate
-we used a small eye bolt and dead blow hammer to pursued it under. Once wet it worked perfectly and eliminated the risk of an accidental puncture
​​​​-we could not get the top closed even after days of stretching. Once we cut about a 12” slice in the center window area it relieved plenty of tension to work successfully.
-Ryobi electric stapler did not appear to have enough clearance to put the staples in. From the front to where the staples depart was cutting it too close. Ended up doing with a traditional stapler. We ground off some metal to give it a tight fit and eliminate the potential of shooting to high and into visible canvas.

all that’s left is sealing the window in it. Have to order a 26:1 high thrust caulk gun. The adhesive comes in steel tubes. Definitely not traditional silicone caulk

 

stone4140,

Originally when I posted on your other thread, I did not think you were are far along as you were.

according to your last photo showing the staple process……this is where I stopped on mine and completely remove the top with frame now STAPLED attached and completed the glass installation in my garage on a bench.

I did the entire installation by myself and needed the advantage of laying the frame flat on a table and supported to match the curvature of the frame…….my logic was that once you placed the window/rubber seal assm. on top of the frame prepared with window sealant…..GOOWY BLACK STUFF….PURCHASED AT AUTO PARTS STORE…..You are going to need to place heavy weights on window Assembly for 24 hours ( I used towels and cinder blocks) making sure you have max contact with window, sealant and stapled frame/canvas. Protect new top from weights and scuffing.

BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL….TOO MUCH SEALANT AND IT WILL OOZE OUT ONTO THE NEW CANVAS TOP!!!!

TOO LITTLE AND NOT ENOUGH CONTACT!!!!

After finishing top/glass assembly, I reinstalled on vehicle.

Not sure you can do that if you have sides and front finished off on vehicle.

TRY putting the top assembly in a semi closed position TO LAY THE WINDOW/FRAME (detach from the struts) DOWN IN THE VEHICLE AND SUPPORT BASED ON CURVED SHAPE.

BY LAYING FLAT THE WINDOW SEALANT WILL HAVE LESS CHANCE FOR MOVEMENT AND PUSHING OUT SEALANT.

Hopefully gives you something’s to think about and how you are going to handle.

GOOD LUCK AND SHOW US PHOTOS WHEN FINISHED.

Softball60/Paul

 

That.
Does.
Not.
Look.
Fun.

Thank you for sharing your experiences. These are the kinds of posts that make this forum so wonderful.

 

ahhhh you mentioned my fear, overflowing black tar sealant. I like the idea of partially opening the top to get a vertical surface. I’ll take pics of the process (only post if successful)

my thought additionally was to tape off around the window to hopefully capture any overflow. I don't think I’ll really know until I lay the bead of goop how helpful that will be.

doing just the canvas isn’t that bad in reflection, the issue was/is Ive never done it before and hopefully I’ll never have to again, but if I did I could move much more quickly. Half the time was spent thinking about how best to proceed.

Another tip, this really worked well. We were having a tough time getting the cutting wire through the original sealant to “saw” the window out in the first place. My brother had a great/scary idea of blow torching a thin piece of sturdy metal and melting through the sealant. It worked perfectly. Once we had a small hole to feed the cutting wire through we had it out in just a few minutes.

 

Well officially finished. Last couple tips:

-Run a pretty narrow bead. The pre-market tip notch lays a pretty thick bead. I followed the interior of the frame, thankfully, but I got overflow. Id rather have excess in the inside of the car cause it’s easier to clean off glass than canvas. Id say a pro probably runs a narrow bead just off the frame lip.

- if you get excess where the molding goes in your in trouble. Had that happen on one corner and getting the molding in required a dental pick to clear it out. I’d probably wait till it dries if it happens otherwise keeping the canvas clean is difficult.

-we waited about 45 minutes to install the molding. I’m glad we didn’t wait longer cause there was still enough play to move the window slightly enough to equalize the distance between the frame and window. Having an equal gap is necessary for the molding to fit in.

 

LOOKS GOOD!!!




Softball60/Paul

 

Nice! Gee now you can have people pay you to do theirs! 😁😁😁