Guys
I have just lucked into a brand new, still in it's crate, Jaguar XJS GM400 complete with new TC. I intend to attach it to my rebuilt engine when that project gets underway sometime in the forthcoming decade. Already in stock is a brand new Jaguar OEM flexplate.

As I presume this gearbox is at least 25 or 30 years old and has never been touched after being manufactured, does any one know if anything needs to be done to it before running the car other than filling it with ATF? For example, turning it over by hand etc etc? Or if anything needs to be done whilst in storage?
Thanks in advance
Greg

 

I also have a NIB (EBC3654N) Hydramatic 400 (3L80) that the Jaguar dealer I worked at wanted to discard.

It sat for years in the parts room and I was asked if I wanted it.
I still have it in the original unopened wood crate with steel banding.

Let me know if it works. Maybe someday I'll cut the steel bands and see what it looks like????????????

bob

 

Bloody hell, that will cost you some serious egg timer situations.

Is it wrapped in a wrapping cover of any sort, or open to the elements??

My immediate thoughts would be"

The pan gasket may is brittle and shrunk.
Any o/rings may have dried out, and worse case cracked.
The front pump seal would need replacing, as would the extension housing seal.
The selector seal, dunno.

The fact it has never been run is no big issue that I can think of, as lots of ATF is/was used on assembly, and that stuff stays intact.

I doubt the clutch packs etc would have deteriorated with never being oil soaked, no different to spare parts sitting for years on shelves.

If its been wrapped from go set., no issues with anything until you need it.

 

Grant, answers in blue:
Is it wrapped in a wrapping cover of any sort, or open to the elements??
In a crate with the wax paper still wrapping it.
My immediate thoughts would be"

The pan gasket may is brittle and shrunk. Will be fitted with my lovely deep pan ally Moroso sump so no bother changing it
Any o/rings may have dried out, and worse case cracked. Where will they be, just in the bits poking in from outside, like the kickdown and modulator?
The front pump seal would need replacing, as would the extension housing seal. How hard it this to do, Grant?
The selector seal, dunno. OK

The fact it has never been run is no big issue that I can think of, as lots of ATF is/was used on assembly, and that stuff stays intact. Good

I doubt the clutch packs etc would have deteriorated with never being oil soaked, no different to spare parts sitting for years on shelves. Good

If its been wrapped from go set., no issues with anything until you need it. Great, it has been. Thanks Grant
Greg

 

I would do one thing: the assembly lube will be wax by now. It isn't made to last 20+ years of storage. BEFORE you fit it, flip it over, fill it from below with some fresh ATF and move the shaft by hand and even use the oil pump in the front to get oil into areas of the tranny and let it soak in for a while. This should 'soften' the lube again and help get the tranny working straight away again.

Otherwise replace the input and output shaft seals. That is it. They are easy tasks anyway.

 

never know until you install it!

GM dont make NO junk.

ron

 

Greg,

Front pump seal is a pop out and tap in at the front, and since the converter is out, it is easy.

 

Bob;


Whee. My daughter's gal pal drives a Catera. Merely an Opel with a Cadillac crest. It's auto box failed. A low mileagfe used unit found and installed.
It is the 3l80, I think . Made in France by GM!!!


Carl

 

Wow! Lucky you !

CHeers
DD

 

Greg,

When you are ready to put the transmission in service, there are some important things you'll want to do get a factory quality installation.

While you are doing the actual installation, make sure to make some random disparaging comments regarding Maggie Thatcher. If you are doing a particularly good job, take a step back and pretend to be your supervisor and state, "that's not how we did it back in the British Leyland days." then pretend that John Egan has entered the shed, get back work and finish the job properly.

I believe those are the correct procedures for your model year. If you had an earlier MY, you could periodically go on strike or forget random parts.