Hello everyone. I'm a virgin mechanic, and I have barely lifted a spanner in my life. So, what would someone in my position do? Buy the most complicated car of course!

Basically, I'm looking for some advice / tips / knowledge.
Car doesn't have an MOT - hasn't for so long that there is nothing on record.

I know this will be a complicated long-term job, but if I can ask a few questions on its repair as I go along, that'd be handy



Faults:

• Blue smoke - can't say if just on startup or worse because the car was barely moved
• Handbrake won't work at all
• Rust on the front passenger sill

They are the most major faults I have right now. What I'd like to ask to begin with, is what is the procedure for repairing the sill, if it's just a case of welding a few plates on? And if it does need to go, how is that done?

(again, I'm really sorry for being naive!)

PS: I'll post some pictures of the car in due course.

 

Sorry! I forgot some key details - derp.

1992 (ergo facelift) 4 litre straight 6. 132k miles (ouch!)

While the car is on grass, that grass has been trimmed a lot, and the tarpaulin removed. It also has a breathable cover, so let's not worry about rusting right away.

Basically, there are some small tasks that need doing on the car first, which I think I can figure out, but I'd like to know how the major things are to be fixed.

I'm also assuming that the chassis is okay. Hopefully soon I can confirm that or not. Fingers crossed!

Just to prove there is no "visual" rust on the car's exterior, and that the interior is in decent nick, here is a "tour" of the video I knocked together
Er ... I must be my non-existent bigger ... yeah ... must be that! Of course I'm over 18 ...

 

Welcome.

I am not an expert by any means, but I have found some useful information.

 

The metal has to be cut out and replaced. XJSs aren't really being restored yet, so bits can be hard to find or very expensive.

The best bet with the fender may be a junkyard, but the sill has to be cut out and metal replaced. That curve wouldn't be too hard to replicate from scratch, but with no experience it is a lot of work.

If you don't run the car much, the smoke may go away after you let it run a bit.
The cable for the handbrake may be seized. Have someone operated it while you look under the car to see if the handbrakes are actually operating.

 

These handbrakes get marked as "not working" quite often simply due to the way the handle operates. ie.the free fall/ratcheting setup.
Can you detail in what way it is not working.

 

The Rust in that guard is most likely caused by the atmospheric catch tank leaking (as they all do). Its located on the shelf behind the guard right where the rust is.

If you want to repair it permanently you need to remove the LH guard and replace the all the rusted metal. I can guarantee the shelf (marked in the pic) and the guard mounting flange will be rusted. Yours looks worse than mine, mine had not rusted the outside of the guard, but the shelf had holes and the mounting flange on the guard was almost rusted away.

Once its welded up and fixed, paint it with POR15 and it will never rust again. I also removed the catch tank, you can re-locate it under the bonnet.

 

Holy Moley ... that's going to be fun(!). Someone actually specifically told me to not take off the wing if possible, due to reasons that certain parts that keep it in place have seals and what not, that otherwise just make it a more complicated job. He did, though, suggest cutting the rusted section out, prepping the metal, then ( I think he said) weld a passenger side wing repair kit.

That's fine for the wing, but as shown in your picture ... my sill is going to be bad bad bad! :O My only hope is that because it's a facelift, they rust proofed the cars a tiny weeny bit more than your HE ... so fingers crossed it's not a total waste! *eek*

When I get back to the car, I'll be sure to double check the handbrake. I am just saying, whether the engine was on or off, the handbrake lever was totally limp.

 

"These handbrakes get marked as "not working" quite often simply due to the way the handle operates. ie.the free fall/ratcheting setup."

Absolutely correct! If you pull the park brake lever up as high as possible, then depress the release button and return the park brake to the horizontal "down" position, there is a chance the brake cable will release. If you then try to set the park brake and it makes a ratcheting sound, you've released the brake lever (but maybe not the brake... if it is rusted in place - that's another story).

It worked for me...Good luck!

 

Being a 4.0L facelift your atmospheric tank may be in a different location. If I were you I remove the splash guard from behind the front wheel and inspect where the guard is fixed to the shelf, there are 2 bolts there, if this is in good condition then you may not need to remove the guard. If as in my case the bolts are so badly rusted removing the guard and fixing it will ensure it does not rust again.

 

That's it, do as davemack suggests in earlier post. May be as simple as that.

 

Welcome to the Forum, congrats on the car. get it right, taking your time, and it will be a great car to take your test in!.


To release the HB: Press button in; Pull lever up to the resistance point and a touch further, button STILL pressed in; With button STILL pressed in, allow lever back to the fully down position.


To apply HB, Press button in; pull lever up to resistance point and a tad further; Release button, allow lever to return back down, button STILL released.


As to the car: looks pretty good, interior lovely (you are a bit young to smoke!). If you decide to keep it and make it really good there is quite a bit of maintenance catch-up work you will need to systematically do.
First off: before you do anything under the car, you need it on firm concrete standing and really ideally, under cover. Your car will deteriorate very fast of kept outside.
The suspension on the XJS is a very good design, but at that mileage there are wear items that you will have to change to get the car as it should be. These are principally rubber suspension bushes, and changing them needs GREAT CARE and proper jacks and stands before you even think of going under the car. The rear axle needs regular greasing, but I suggest you post again when you come to doing any suspension jobs and the guys will give you loads of help.
Without lifting the car there are important reliability things you can do easily enough, as long as you like doing such tasks:
Changing ALL the engine coolant water hoses, and the coolant itself is a must, do NOT forget the hose under the intake manifold which I guarantee you have never been changed a nobody knows it is there!
Change the spark plugs and fuel filter.


Oil and filter change is also a must, but again this needs under-car access, which must only be attempted safely as mentioned above. Gearbox ATF fluid also will need changing. In the meantime i suggest you ask Santa for some workshop manuals for your model. These are pretty detailed explanations of how to do stuff on the car. They are available on disc from Jaguar Heritage I am pretty sure, but the 6 cylinder car experts will chime in on that. Also, a proper set of tools, socket set (metric and SAE), grips, pliers, etc etc is an absolute must. If you really get into the idea of fixing cars, your christmas and birthday presents are sorted until you are a pensioner! Good luck and have fun.
Greg

 

That is incorrect info. The wing unbolts very easily except for a short piece at the front where it is brazed to the lower front corner panel that goes under the bumper and round the corner (I think on facelift car is like the pre-facelift as far as this brazed bit goes). There are attachment points under the front of the headlight nacelle above the bumper so the bumper might have to be unbolted to get at them. Remove the seals carefully and they will go back OK. Remove the wheelarch baffles too. Once the wing is off the dog can see the rabbit, and the repair is far more straightforward, and it is obvious what needs doing.
Greg

 

My stuff?


The under growth looks much like what I'm battling. Tools:
1. Electric trimmer.
2. Gas powered Weed Whacker. Heavier and fussier than the one in 1., But whacks a lot better.
3. Electric sliding blade hedge trimmer. Works well to get the tall stuff down to where the ones in 1. and 2. can do their best. Long grass winds about the spinner and stalls them!!


Oh, gotta stop from time to time:
A. Old shoulders protest.
B. String pools empty. Recharging a task.


You've a very nice project. The rust is something folks in your part of the world battle constantly. And with a lot of success. It can be done!!


Rust is much less prevalent here. But, I've wrestled with it on really
old parts. Made well before rust prevention existed. Wire brushes, mechanical and manual. Chemistry. Bead blasting. Cut out bad metal and weld in new. OXY Acetylene in my case. Welded and ground made the parts just fine. Two grinders, smaller and a really big one.


Carl

 

Don't be bewildered. Just have at it. One task at a time and all will come together.


Carl

 

First off, I want to say a big thanks for those who have replied! You're all helpful and not condescending (I was fearing someone might be because I am a *tad* foolish).

I'm also glad I don't have to keep the guise of being an 18 ye- I mean ... I am an 18 year old ... duh! In all seriousness, I don't smoke nor drink. In that regards, I'm a pretty good teenager.

When the car was delivered, my friend who was watching said "The suspension sounds a bit off, and I suspect that's the rubber bushings" sounds like he may have been spot on. I'll find out soon enough whether it's that or something more systemic.

I definitely agree with the "one bite at a time" principle here. It would be nice to have it finished before I have a test, but I think I'll still be happy if it's done within 5 years. That leaves plenty of time to get more and more complicated tools!

Car is under a "breathable and waterproof" car cover, that was designed to fit only the XJS. So it'll slow down any rusting for now, and should buy me some time before I hopefully get it in a garage. (Hopefully!!!!!)

As for a hard surface, I might until August have to make do with either ramps for the oil change, or using a piece of wood and jacking the car with axle stands. Anyway, I'll try to do the menial stuff, and as soon as it's out of the way (which ... set backs might be a while) I'll be back and I'll ask for how I tackle the more serious issues of rust. Don't worry - I won't have forgotten any of you ... it's merely that its current location is utter trite for doing work. :|

 

The atmospheric tank leaking isn't the issue, the windshield drains down the pillar from the top ( under the stainless trim) to a "gutter" style drain inside that fender. Jaguar thought it would be a good idea to put foam between the atmospheric tank bracket and the inside of the fender. Not a good combo to say the least. You end up with wet foam against the inside of the fender right where your rust is. I removed my foam, added some tar paper as a "rub buffer" vice the foam, treated the inside with por15 and sealed up the roof scuppers at the top of the windshield pillars when I put in my new windscreen.

 

I hate getting under the car with axle stands, even though mine are 6ton each, also they do not raise the car high enough, and the ramps get in the way. I now use cribbing blocks under each wheel, I figured if they hold up houses they will hold my car.

 

These look the part.

http://myliftstand.com