First, let me say that I apologize for all of theses new threads. I promise that I do use the search key before posting and only post when I've tried all other options.

That said, I think I have a bug in my central locking system. Every time I attempt to lock the drivers side door, whether it be manual, key, or alarm transmitter, the door locks and then immediately reopens.

Funnier still is if I lock the passenger door, manual or key, BOTH doors stay locked. Then , if I do the same to open from the passenger side, everything works as it should.

Here's the craziest part, if I lock the passenger side with the key, both doors lock and the alarm engages even though I didn't press the transmitter button. Then if I use the key on the passenger side to open, the doors open and the alarm disengages. If I use the transmitter to open the doors from the previously described position, the alarm disengages and ONLY the driver's side door opens. ????

Finally, if I have to get to the central locking module to fix this problem, how do I get there. What is the A pillar?

 

I believe there is some kind of safety system built in which, after sending the commands to lock the doors, checks whether the door has actually locked. If the inside door latch has not reached the correct position, the system then sends an unlock command (and the door unlocks) The system has assumed the reason why the door didn't lock was because your 5 year old kids hand was stuck in the door :-)

This suggests to me that it's your passengers side locking lever thats giving the "I'm not closed" signal, making the doors unlock. When you move it manually, either with the key or the lever itself, you are pushing it to the correct position and the system thinks the locking has been successful, so doesn't send the "unlock" command


I don't have the factory fitted alarm, but I would imagine it was possible to set the alarm automatically once you manually lock the door.

Perhaps the car has 2 stage unlock ?? ie one press unlocks the drivers door, a second press unlocks all the doors (easy to try that)

The controller is on the right hand side of the passenger foot well. (This is what is referred to as the A post) but my gut feel is you don't have a controller issue, you have a problem with the passenger side inside lock/unlock switch.

On my car the locking works 99% of the time. When it doesn't work (meaning it automatically unlocks once I try and lock it) I have to open the drivers door, push the locking lever all the way forward. Then when I try to lock the next time, it works fine. So, I have a lazy drivers doors switch, and I suspect you have a lazy passenger door switch

 

Docmace,

Sarc is correct. If this does not work check your PM. When on full alarm mode the alarm the system locks the trunk. If the trunk lock is not working properly you won't be able to lock the car unless you put in in "valet" mode.

 

Thanks. I went to try these things last night and the battery was dead. I guess it was from all my tinkering the day before. I charged it up overnight and I will try these things tonight.
I have a feeling it may be the trunk lock. It has always acted erratically. However, I will go through the steps and let y'all know. Thanks for the help.

 

Ok, got juice now and it appears that the problem is in the passenger door lock as you indicated. Everything responds to the transmitter (trunk, driver's door) except the passenger door. This causes the driver's side to immediately unlock and the alarm won't set.

So, where do I start correcting the passenger door locking system? Is the problem in the actual lock mechanism or is it in the electronics not sending the signal to the locking mechanism?

Thanks,

Jeff

 

I finally had some time to get the door trim off to analyze the passenger door lock mechanism. I think actual locking motor may be shot. When activating the central locking mechanism, the passenger side locking mechanism does absolutely nothing. If I move it manually, it communicates with the module as it should and activated the locking system for the driver door and trunk/boot. So, I don't think it's a circuit issue.

My question is: has anyone ever changed out one of these motors? It seems like it would be very difficult to get to the actual motor even with the trim panel off. Also, does anyone know where I can buy this part?

Thanks

 

@Docmace

I have got parts from these guys before.....

1995 JAGUAR XJS "CONVERTIBLE-2+2"- HIT REAR- PARTING OUT!! *CLEAN*

I can imagine it's going to be a fiddly job, working blind in the dark inside the door :-(

 

As time goes by the pass door lock in particular due to infrequent use tends to get sluggish because all links and lock itself suffer from dried out oil/grease. Try cleaning and relubing everything. I haven't opened the motor/gear but these things have been stuck due to dried out grease on several other cars I have tinkered with. The symptoms you describe are typical for this sutuation.

 

I was thinking/hoping that as well but wouldn't the motor at least attempt to function if that were the case. This motor does absolutely nothing. It's not like it's attempting to function but can't. It simply does nothing at all. QUOTE=Per;639085]As time goes by the pass door lock in particular due to infrequent use tends to get sluggish because all links and lock itself suffer from dried out oil/grease. Try cleaning and relubing everything. I haven't opened the motor/gear but these things have been stuck due to dried out grease on several other cars I have tinkered with. The symptoms you describe are typical for this sutuation.[/QUOTE]

 

If the gear is solid with dried out grease you will not necessarily hear anything at all. But if you connect an ammeter in series with the feed to the solenoid/motor you should see a current flowing at least initially.

 

Just been through the same issue, passenger side actuator not operational. I initially went looking for a new or replacement actuator, but eventually rebuilt the original. What happens is that the linkage gets stiff. The controller drives the, motor for about 3 seconds to open or close. With a stiff linkage, the motor stalls or over heats. I found it must be common as there are many eBay listings for Mabuchi 280 door lock actuator motors, about 5$. The actuator needs to be split open along the seam and reglued. Make sure the lock mechanism moves freely but does not have much grease that will attract dirt. Getting the actuator out require you to pull the door card off and unscrewing the lock and unclipping the linkages. Difficult and fiddly but doable.

 

my XJR suffers from locking issues. If I use either the remote or the key in the drivers door the locking locks, unlocks, locks, unlocks a number of times and then stays unlocked. If I open the passengers door and move the latch down a fraction it will lock ok. how do you adjust these things please.

 

Hi Sarc--

you seem to know many things about the door locking system and the anti theft system of this class of Jags- I'm in a situation and I would appreciate your input on-
here's the post to look at if you have a moment

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...96-xj6-145546/