I have a 1996 Jaguar XJS with the AJ16. I changed my belts today and would like to share how its done.

You will need stubby wrenches here. Ratcheting open end would help a lot. I would recommend you get them! I only had ratcheting box end wrenches and they were still a lifesaver. The stubbies will be needed regardless.

1. Go to the passengers side and undo the four sets of nuts on the AC Compressor. (pic shown) You will need a 13mm and 17mm to do this. Ratcheting wrenches help. A socket wrench is useless.

2a. Get underneath, and remove the under tray. Now you should see what I see in Pic 2. You will have one more pair of nuts to undo. Same 13mm and 17mm needed. Stubbies will help. I would not recommend doing this job without them.

2b. Once loosened loosen the inner nut on the long threaded rod. This will allow the compressor to hinge in, loosening the belt. Once you get enough of it loosened you will be able to free it by hand. Now start working the other nut to push the compressor towards the inside bolt until you get it loose enough to take the belt off.

2c. Don't add the new belt just yet. Time to get to the Alternator belt.

3&4. While you're down there loosen the pivot bolt at the alternator with a 17mm wrench.

5a. Now get to the top side and remove the air filter canister. Now you will look at my pic to know which nut (I think it was a 13mm) to loosen first before you start adjusting the nuts on the long threaded rod. I used a standard 3/8" drive socket wrench with a 13mm standard socket. I needed a breaker bar to get it started, then it went easily. Sorry the note on that nut didn't come out too well. I meant to say that the nut gets loosened second, since the first nut to loosen is in the previous picture.

5b. Now on to the adjustment nuts. You will absolutely need a 15mm stubby. I think the nut is actually a 9/16" but the 15mm will work. Once loose enough, take the old belt off, over the fan (no need to remove the fan) and then get the new one started and away you go.

NOTE: (1) the outer most nut on the threaded rod is what will limit the amount you can tighten the belts. You may need to extend it pretty far by backing it out from where it was previously. It depends on the belt you're using.

(2) I used a cheapie $15 Gates tension meter. You will need to get both belts to 50kg

(3) OEM was Dayco. I didn't know this, I used Gates. Gates are longer belts. No need to use Gates. I believe Dayco belts are a little bit shorter than Gates. If that's the case, I would definitely use Dayco in the future.

(4) Pictures 3 and 4 show the same thing, #4 just pans back a little bit.

 

Vee,

Thanks for the write-up on this. The pics are also useful. Forgive me asking but as a Brit what are "stubby wrenches" and "ratcheting box end wrenches"? Might I understand that as "short spanners" and "closed ratchet spanners" or have I misunderstood?

Also, I was intrigued by your comment about not using sockets. Is that because of lack of space? I have short sockets, "hole-through" socket ratchets and plenty of wobble bars & extensions. I usually have a real preference to using sockets if at all possible. Would that lot be suitable or are spanners (wrenches) the only way IYO to do this?

Cheers

Paul

 

1. Stubby wrenches are indeed short wrenches or spanners.
2. Ratcheting wrenches are indeed spanners with a box end ratchet like these:

I prefer sockets as well, there simply isn't enough space for them, however if you have something unusual, it could work. I have standard Craftsman socket sets. you will need "spanners" though. There won't be any way to get around it for much of this work.

If you're planning to do this as well, I'd be interested to know how you did it! The forum could probably benefit from a solid English translation as well!

I would recommend these to help speed the work along:
It has the ratchet action on the open end of the "spanner". There are some tough to reach nuts that would not let me get the thicker walled ratcheted closed end "spanner" on.

 

Thanks for that.

I thought the V12 was a PITA, but that is a serious PITA from what I read.

Well done.

 

Vee,

Thanks for all of that! I admit that I don't really like using open-ended spanners / wrenches unless absolutely necessary as I always feel that they can never really give the secure grip of ring or sockets. When you get a chance, have a look at pass-through socket sets. They can transform your life!

I'm hoping to do the belts sometime this summer. I've got to do the auto fluid change first, which I just know is going to be a bit messy!

Cheers

Paul

 

It really wasn't that bad. It took me about 3 hours total, including bringing out the ramps, tools, removing/replacing the undertray, and a brief stop for lunch. Someone better organized can do this in under two hours.

While prepping to do this, I would recommend purchasing URO Part EAC6806 to replace those odd rubber supports holding up the intake assembly. The proper replacement parts are insanely expensive and Rockauto sells these for $1 a piece. Perhaps when you place an order for your replacement belts? This URO Part EAC6806 is a direct swap for both CAC8478 and EAC8130.

I almost ordered the Conti belt on clearance from RockAuto. I regretted not pulling the trigger on that now that I learned they don't make crummy quality belts that Dayco and Gates can provide sometimes.

 

Vee,

As you've probably found out, many of those aftermarket hex rubber mounts have a longer threaded stud. That's not too much of a problem on the engine bay side (you may have to cut them down a bit to avoid fouling the air filter housing mount bracket), but can create a problem on the external wheelarch side. IMO, most of the threads that are exposed get very corroded in that wheelarch.

Last time I changed mine, I did the following: I cut down the threads leaving them as per the original shorter length. I then put some waxoyl on the threads and then capped the threads with a small rubber nipple cap.

Paul

 

The V12 is a PITA, particularly when you're replacing the alternator belt, factory location is nearest the engine necessitating removing the other three belts to gain access.
I decided I may as well replace all four.
Then when the belt started to slip after a few months use and needed tension adjusting it's the only one that can't be adjusted from above the engine.

I love my V12, but sometimes wish maintenance was easier.
Oh well, all part of the fun.

 

[QUOTE=Vee;1471801]It really wasn't that bad. It took me about 3 hours total, including bringing out the ramps, tools, removing/replacing the undertray, and a brief stop for lunch. Someone better organized can do this in under two hours.

YOU GET LUNCH???????, DAMN.

I get a cold coffee if I am blessed.

Just kidding, get what ya can when ya can.

 

I'll see your belt, and raise you a pair of pants ...





... sorry, the devil made me do it