Changing fuel sending unit
The last little annoyance on my car left is the fuel level gauge. It "seems" to work from a half tank till empty as you fill the tank needle rises to a point then goes dead and reads empty. I was using the trip odometer which was fine until my gorgeous lady friend was using the car and for whatever reason reset the odometer which you guessed it left me stranded!!! Too cute to yell at so I guess I'll fix the gauge. I bought a new sending unit. Do you have to remove the tank to install it?
She did wash the car today to make it up to me.
She did wash the car today to make it up to me.
No you don't need to remove the tank. Just remove the spare tire and you'll have access. Just don't have a full tank of gas when you do it
. It's a simple job and a very common problem on 94MY cars, I believe there was a TSB issued.
. It's a simple job and a very common problem on 94MY cars, I believe there was a TSB issued.
The last little annoyance on my car left is the fuel level gauge. It "seems" to work from a half tank till empty as you fill the tank needle rises to a point then goes dead and reads empty. I was using the trip odometer which was fine until my gorgeous lady friend was using the car and for whatever reason reset the odometer which you guessed it left me stranded!!! Too cute to yell at so I guess I'll fix the gauge. I bought a new sending unit. Do you have to remove the tank to install it?
She did wash the car today to make it up to me.
She did wash the car today to make it up to me.
it is in the top of the gas tank. Remove the bottom of the back seat and it is accessible. I think it is on the LH side
About an XJS sender unit
I have changed my unit. Mine is a coupe, so it might be a little different, but I think the procedure is mostly the same.
Here I introduce how to change it. Written in Japanese, you still see the pics and they would be a help.
ƒWƒƒƒK[X300^XJS@ƒƒ“ƒeî•ñ•ƒp[ƒc”Ì”„@`ƒtƒ…[ƒGƒ‹ƒQ[ƒWƒZƒ“ƒ_[ŒðŠ·`
I have changed my unit. Mine is a coupe, so it might be a little different, but I think the procedure is mostly the same.
Here I introduce how to change it. Written in Japanese, you still see the pics and they would be a help.
ƒWƒƒƒK[X300^XJS@ƒƒ“ƒeî•ñ•ƒp[ƒc”Ì”„@`ƒtƒ…[ƒGƒ‹ƒQ[ƒWƒZƒ“ƒ_[ŒðŠ·`
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idk if this changes on any updated cars but its pretty simple.
Remove spare tire
Move carpeting on gas tank out of the way
sending unit is located centrally, mark wires or take picture
Take a flat head screwdriver and hammer and lightly strike the retainer ring until it frees.
(make sure your tank is below this level obviously)
lift out the old sending unit
removing the unit and replacing it take a little finessing to fit it around the baffles properly
mine only works moderately better, won't go higher than 1/4. There is extra resistance somewhere in the circuit. If yours doesn't work still find the proper resistance levels and check your resistance coming from the unit and then at the connector to the instrument cluster. I have heard a lot of recommendation to ad an extra ground to the instrument cluster, so i am expect that to be related to my issue.
Remove spare tire
Move carpeting on gas tank out of the way
sending unit is located centrally, mark wires or take picture
Take a flat head screwdriver and hammer and lightly strike the retainer ring until it frees.
(make sure your tank is below this level obviously)
lift out the old sending unit
removing the unit and replacing it take a little finessing to fit it around the baffles properly
mine only works moderately better, won't go higher than 1/4. There is extra resistance somewhere in the circuit. If yours doesn't work still find the proper resistance levels and check your resistance coming from the unit and then at the connector to the instrument cluster. I have heard a lot of recommendation to ad an extra ground to the instrument cluster, so i am expect that to be related to my issue.
About an XJS sender unit
I have changed my unit. Mine is a coupe, so it might be a little different, but I think the procedure is mostly the same.
Here I introduce how to change it. Written in Japanese, you still see the pics and they would be a help.
ƒWƒƒƒK[X300^XJS@ƒƒ“ƒeî•ñ•ƒp[ƒc”Ì”„@`ƒtƒ…[ƒGƒ‹ƒQ[ƒWƒZƒ“ƒ_[ŒðŠ·`
I have changed my unit. Mine is a coupe, so it might be a little different, but I think the procedure is mostly the same.
Here I introduce how to change it. Written in Japanese, you still see the pics and they would be a help.
ƒWƒƒƒK[X300^XJS@ƒƒ“ƒeî•ñ•ƒp[ƒc”Ì”„@`ƒtƒ…[ƒGƒ‹ƒQ[ƒWƒZƒ“ƒ_[ŒðŠ·`
idk if this changes on any updated cars but its pretty simple.
Remove spare tire
Move carpeting on gas tank out of the way
sending unit is located centrally, mark wires or take picture
Take a flat head screwdriver and hammer and lightly strike the retainer ring until it frees.
(make sure your tank is below this level obviously)
lift out the old sending unit
removing the unit and replacing it take a little finessing to fit it around the baffles properly
mine only works moderately better, won't go higher than 1/4. There is extra resistance somewhere in the circuit. If yours doesn't work still find the proper resistance levels and check your resistance coming from the unit and then at the connector to the instrument cluster. I have heard a lot of recommendation to ad an extra ground to the instrument cluster, so i am expect that to be related to my issue.
Remove spare tire
Move carpeting on gas tank out of the way
sending unit is located centrally, mark wires or take picture
Take a flat head screwdriver and hammer and lightly strike the retainer ring until it frees.
(make sure your tank is below this level obviously)
lift out the old sending unit
removing the unit and replacing it take a little finessing to fit it around the baffles properly
mine only works moderately better, won't go higher than 1/4. There is extra resistance somewhere in the circuit. If yours doesn't work still find the proper resistance levels and check your resistance coming from the unit and then at the connector to the instrument cluster. I have heard a lot of recommendation to ad an extra ground to the instrument cluster, so i am expect that to be related to my issue.
Mine works but as you fill the tank the gauge, needle rises to the full tank point and then after A while goes dead and reads empty then after a while it rises to full point again and So on. I have the odometer reading just in case and this only happens when I fill up the tank
Thanks really good information.
Mine works but as you fill the tank the gauge, needle rises to the full tank point and then after A while goes dead and reads empty then after a while it rises to full point again and So on. I have the odometer reading just in case and this only happens when I fill up the tank
Mine works but as you fill the tank the gauge, needle rises to the full tank point and then after A while goes dead and reads empty then after a while it rises to full point again and So on. I have the odometer reading just in case and this only happens when I fill up the tank
I believe you just remove the rear seat and then there is a plastic cover over the body that has to be pulled back to access the assembly on the LH side. Disconnect the electrical connection and pull it out to replace with the new one.
I have seen a tool for removing it, so I'm not sure if there is some trick to getting it out without that tool. Good luck
It like nearly any other british car from the 50s-90s. There is a metal ring that you tap loose to unlock the sender and then it simply comes out. On the XJ6 the tank is under the car, and the sender is located on the side. Sorry, can't tell you which side its on, just look around for it.
Long time since l did one but you have two tanks one each side but l cannot remember if you have access without removing tanks. I will check my books but also look for access panel on side of trunk inside or underneath in rear silencer cavity.
Well all of the earlier cars use generic fuel pumps outside the tank, so you can always copy that.
Is this a convertible? I imagine creating a pickup or feed tube to be the most problematic part, would require welding a bung to the tank.
Is this a convertible? I imagine creating a pickup or feed tube to be the most problematic part, would require welding a bung to the tank.
Francis, assuming you're referring to the fuel gauge senders you'll pull the tail lights for access.
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