Changing Rear Shocks/coilovers
#1
#2
the dealer removes stuff to make jobs easier or faster because they have the equipment to, so you may not HAVE to.
that being said i don't actually know. You can definitely get to the bottom of the coilovers but im not sure about the top. I'd roll under the car and just check it out to be sure. Hopefully someone here has done it before and can actually let you know!
that being said i don't actually know. You can definitely get to the bottom of the coilovers but im not sure about the top. I'd roll under the car and just check it out to be sure. Hopefully someone here has done it before and can actually let you know!
#4
#5
NO to the cradle.
Did a set 3 days ago.
A 5/8 and 11/16 spanner for teh top bolt and nut on each shocker. They are awkward up insid ethe cradle. The lower pin is 11/16 each end, and 15/16 is needed for the outer pivot nut to release that brace strap.
Dont loose the spacer on the front shocker lower bolt.
Compressing the springs to remove the collets is NOT fun, and BLOODY dangerous if the compressor lets go, but I use the 2 claw each end style, and reasonably safe. The collets are a pain, and fiddly, and the "fear factor" is always there, coz if the clamp slips your finger is gone.
I am always scared when doing them, those smalish springs pack a real punch and take some reasonable muscle to wind them into a compressed state to get those collets out nad especially back in, but I am carefull, and done many over the years, and still have all my fingers.
Took 4 hours start to finish, and being as I have serious arthritis in both wrists not too bad a time in my opinion.
Did a set 3 days ago.
A 5/8 and 11/16 spanner for teh top bolt and nut on each shocker. They are awkward up insid ethe cradle. The lower pin is 11/16 each end, and 15/16 is needed for the outer pivot nut to release that brace strap.
Dont loose the spacer on the front shocker lower bolt.
Compressing the springs to remove the collets is NOT fun, and BLOODY dangerous if the compressor lets go, but I use the 2 claw each end style, and reasonably safe. The collets are a pain, and fiddly, and the "fear factor" is always there, coz if the clamp slips your finger is gone.
I am always scared when doing them, those smalish springs pack a real punch and take some reasonable muscle to wind them into a compressed state to get those collets out nad especially back in, but I am carefull, and done many over the years, and still have all my fingers.
Took 4 hours start to finish, and being as I have serious arthritis in both wrists not too bad a time in my opinion.
#6
#7
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#9
Fairly easy job except for compressing those springs. As Grant says, remove the bushing in the top of the shock and put it into the new one.
I had one pair put in by a shop because I had a leaking stub axle seal on one side. Upon asking the mechanic if he had saved the bushings he hesitated and said the bolt fitted perfectly. I came home and took the bolts out to look and the bushings weren't there. We found them in his garbage can.
Cheers, RagJag
I had one pair put in by a shop because I had a leaking stub axle seal on one side. Upon asking the mechanic if he had saved the bushings he hesitated and said the bolt fitted perfectly. I came home and took the bolts out to look and the bushings weren't there. We found them in his garbage can.
Cheers, RagJag
Last edited by RagJag; 05-15-2015 at 09:58 AM.
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