I haven’t seen a good for changing rear rotors and pads. Anyone have one bookmarked.

 

The pads can be changed just be removing their retaining pins and pulling them out. The discs require the four driveshaft nuts to be undone and the driveshaft pulled away from the diff output shaft studs, which loosens the disc; but the disc cannot be pulled off the diff output shaft studs because the calipers prevent it. So next the calipers have to be undone. There are different views about whether this can be done axle in car. It may be with a GKN diff (drain plug under the diff) but my experience is that it cannot be with a DANA diff (no drain plug). Quite honestly it is better to remove the entire axle and that makes the job easy, and also allows far better inspection of what needs doing.

 

Hi Wrightbenz

Here is a Complete Step by Step Guide to Removing the IRS Cage on an XJS V12 including lots of Photos of the Process

I found it quite a Fun Job to do and you don't really need a Car Lift, as long as you make very sure that no matter what happens the Car can't fall on you!

Click: On the Link Below

Removing the IRS Rear Cage to Replace the Rotors/Calipers and Brake Pads on an XJS V12

 

I’m to the point where I’ll pull the whole cage for practically any work. It’s just easier and faster.
Doubt me? Go ahead and learn the hard way.

 

Inboard brakes, yes. The OP asked about outboard brakes on the late cars, and they are no more difficult than the fronts.

 

No, OP asked about onboard rear brakes. That’s clearly a typo, or maybe autocorrection. I think inboard is closer to onboard, maybe OP can clarify?

 

I think it depends on many times you have done it.

My rear, inboard pads were replaced by a mechanic at an independent Classic Jaguar specialist. He had done many and said he knew just where to put each finger to be able to do it insitu. If you have never done before then I can see dropping the cage may be easier.

I think it also depends on the access available i.e., ramp versus driveway.

Whichever method you choose good luck with it.

Cheers,
LeeP

 

The OP hasn't responded at all and you all arguing on here lol.

 

I think we all agree that pad changes do not need the cage out. The question is whether caliper changes and rotor do.

 

I agree it seems a bit odd; but one of the points about a thread like this is for the assistance of others who may read it later.

 

typo in the title should have read onboard brakes as I have an 88

 

I looked at the post for removing the gage and it does not look like fun. Certainly changing the pads seems easy enough without dropping the gage I would think. I’m fairly certain I will need to do more than just pads since the cast was sitting for several years.

 

Its acutally not too bad. I just did it a month ago. Still out as waiting for parts is the biggest delay for me. Took me 5 hrs first time but I was going slow and making sure I did everything correctly. I followed OBs post as well.

You can check my build thread out to with pics etc. Between mine build thread and OBs you should have everything you need to drop it out.

If the cars been sitting, like mine was for 4 years outside, dropping the cage is the best thing to do.