THANK YOU Afterburner for the advice of checking the LED connections while the assembly is out of the dash. Like most brilliant ideas it is obvious once pointe out!

 

je vous en prey

 

Gerry
In reply to your post 160 follow my post 156. the traces can be repaired with doubled sided conducting copper tape. if traces leave the plastic contact cement works. It appears that you are a novice with electricity (not a put down) the simplest way to understand the flow is to look at the circuit as a plumbing problem . Would water flow that way? All hot leads run to a function (light bulb) and from there to ground. The contacts on the plug and the contacts on the printed circuit must be clean. A pencil eraser works very well because it is abrasive. Good luck with your task. you will succeed!

 

I guess I can't transition from doing house wiring to car wiring, but I digress.
(I have the used the pencil eraser approach in trying to save the fuel sender unit, but it did not work. Off topic see my other post on this...)
However, I have read this entire thread and followed post 156.
What I find odd is that replacing the non-working LED with the OEM bulb and it works well once again, so the trace and OEM bulb are good to go aka clean.




It may be that the contacts on the LED are off by virtue of the 6.3D vs. 6.5D as someone up in the thread has mentioned. Somehow I doubt this, because as I said previously, they started to chew into the copper strip.
I'll have another look at it this weekend, after I get yard work done.


:-(


Gerry T.

 

Yes, it is frustrating. it's still possible that the LED connection to the plastic printed circuit is defective. I know on mine a couple did not work and I resorted to soldering. You do know that the warning bulbs do not light initially when you turn on the ignition or light circuit. and they don't light until they are actuated; like the turn signals. If you don't have a volt/ohm meter a cheap analog not digital would help your circuit trace. Hope this helps