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Facelift Front Wheel Knock When Turning and Gas Applied
OK,
Seems like the front suspension is continuing to keep me busy on this 1996 XJS with the AJ16 engine.
I recently replaced my motor mounts to resolve an issue with the fan scraping the shroud when turning left. Fixed.
I also replaced my front shocks. The old ones were dead.
Now when I drive and make a sharp turn, doesn't matter which way, however I MUST have the gas applied, I get a quick rythmic knocking coming from the front drivers side wheel area. I don't feel it in the steering at all, nor does the car wobble in anyway. It never happens driving straight, or making gradual turns. The wheel has to be almost at the wheel lock. Basically making a sharp turn in the city, or a tightly circled on/off ramp. The weird thing is if I take my foot off the gas pedal, the sound goes away immediately.
The shocks are tight. I triple checked those. Both ends.
I haven't gotten the car alignment done. Could that be the cause?
On the earlier cars, the front suspension cradle to chassis "V" mounts made that noise when the cracked/split. No feeling anywhere, just that "clonk".
just ooked at the JEPC, and the cradle mounts etc on yours are the same as the earlier cars. I have replaced them on all my Series,and XJS cars, a simple enough task (about 5 beers a side), and well worth the effort. GENUINE only for me, the others are shiiit.
Last edited by Grant Francis; Apr 3, 2020 at 01:55 AM.
A few other things to check: Anti-roll bar drop links and rubbers. Actually loose stub axle. Bottom ball joint bolts tight, bottom shock absorber bolt tight. Steering arm/caliper bolts tight.
I think I found my problem. Greg, all the way from France is the winner.
how hard can this be to replace? My service manual makes it sound like a very straightforward job…or is it? Basically unbolt the top, then the bottom, then replace the rubber, then bolt it back together, keeping the special washers in place. Could it really be that easy?
This top one is bad. This one is probably shot too.
I have an odd metal like knock on this sort of motion/turning scenario its perplexing to but my ENTIRE CAR was just redone, every bushing mount bearing and joint done even had half shafts replaced at a cost that will water a man's eye.
Sometimes its best to just continue drinking and tell yourself its no big deal. Lord knows the wallet can't do another repair job I've already put the mechanic's kid through college.
I have an odd metal like knock on this sort of motion/turning scenario its perplexing to but my ENTIRE CAR was just redone, every bushing mount bearing and joint done even had half shafts replaced at a cost that will water a man's eye.
Sometimes its best to just continue drinking and tell yourself its no big deal. Lord knows the wallet can't do another repair job I've already put the mechanic's kid through college.
maybe check everything is still nipped up tight as greg said? Just a thought.
That is the drop link Vee. It is straightforward to change. Remove the wheel, big wooden block under the disc or very outside of the suspension under the bottom ball joint, so the car is level as if still on its wheels. That way the ARB is not under any twist load. Undo top and bottom and replace all four rubbers. If the drop link is worn, change that too.
This is a classic example of the truth of the Grant Francis motto "do it once, do it right, do it ALL". Well found, Vee, let's hope you get some decent driving with the car after all your troubles.
Last edited by Greg in France; Apr 4, 2020 at 02:39 AM.
Yup! it's really that easy but do get some WD on those threads before the New Rubber Bushes arrive, as going by those Photo's those bushes you have on your Car look a little bit Shot away and New Bushes will also help to improve the Handling (It should take you half a day at most) if this is the first time you have done this job
See Thread Below: Step by Step Guide to Fitting New Drop Link Bushes on an XJS including Photo's these are on a Pre-facelift V12 but the principle is the same
If I let this go for another week, or about 100 miles, will there be any consequences?
As long as you can stand the undone job eating away at your psyche! Seriously, no, but the actual metal link is getting worn when the rubbers are shot like this, so best done sooner rather than later.
Probably won’t get many miles done. I am in process of replacing rear shocks. I’ve now started prepping the springs for some paint after spending about an hour getting rid of the flaky paint and rust.
Looks like I’ll have the shocks back on the car tomorrow-and then the other side!
I would not worry about it. The wear is caused by the rubber bushes not being changed and metal to metal contact eroding the hole. New rubbers and all will be fine. The metal is only there to hold the rubber in place, after all.
Facelift Front Wheel Knock When Turning and Gas Applied
