So, i have decided to create another thread, as if my problem is indeed real, it might be a very common one, so people should be informed

I had some cooling issues in the past, and that route brought me to my fan clutch, that was turning with way less resistance when hot. ie cold 1/4 when i spin it as much as i can, and 1/1 when hot.

So i ordered a new clutch from baratt, it came exactly the same as mine, even codes , numbers and other signs. However new clutch had some signs being used before (dirt, marks from washers), i didnt really paid attention to it, wanted to tried it asap. So... long story short, it is exactly the same when hot

almost full turn when hot, and only 1/4 when cold

Barratt support told me that they are sorry, and they have sent me someone's return by mistake

Anyway, now, its either normal operation, or both are defective.

Can you guys please check your car, how does it turn when hot? It says everywhere that fan clutch should be more resistant when hot.

if both are faulty, it seems like a very common problem with part number NBC2215AA# on SNGBarratt.

 

Usually SNG Barratt parts that end with the character # are sourced from OEM suppliers. I just checked their website and, for some reason, it identifies NBC2215AA# as being an aftermarket reproduction part.

You could source an OEM part from another supplier (assuming you can verify that it really is OEM) or even buy the correct original part from Jaguar.

Good luck

Paul

 

i know its not oem, original was around 300+ , i have built charger 1971 based on oem parts, and it does work ok, OEM parts should also be okeish especially mechanical ones, still i paid almost $200 for this aftermarket part, my charger has $50 one and works like a bull. Question is, should it spin full turn when hot and quarter of a turn when cold? if the answer is no, i guess there are many victims, like previous owner of my jag, and like guy that returned that clutch to barratt, which they shipped by mistake to me. It doesnt matter if its aftermarket or not with this rate of defectiveness.

 

Fan clutches are a delicate balance. If you have a defective thermostat, defective water pump or clogged radiator then not enough heat will be rejected to cause the fan clutch to lock up in the first place and the car will still over heat. This will give the appearance the fan clutch is defective even though it is not. That said, if I saw washer marks on a "new" part then I wouldn't waste time installing it.

I might suggest you take the cooling system as a whole and start with checking for debris in front of the radiator, change both thermostats and perhaps install a piece of clear hose to observe coolant flow out of the water pump. Rockauto.com has many fan clutches to choose from in the 30 to 40 $ range.

 

Have you checked your thermostats? There is lots here about them, the short story is most of the thermostats listed for the V12 are wrong and don't block off the bypass. When I installed ones that were long enough the running temperatures dropped noticeably.

 

I wouldn't be happy with a full turn when hot....if it really IS hot.

As mentioned, it may not be getting hot enough to engage.

Besides the spin test you should be able to hear and feel a pronounced difference when it engages. With the hood open, start the engine cold. The clutch will probably be engaged as the viscous fluid will have settled. This shoud last just a few moments. You'll hear it disengage (much less sound) and feel much less air flow. Now just stand there and wait. If/when the clutch gets hot enough you'll hear it engage and feel a big increase in air flow. I wouldn't expect it to engage until the engine is at least at normal operating temperature and, really, a bit higher than that. That's the whole idea of having the clutch.

If/when you'e sure it has engaged, turn the engine off. The fan should stop spinning instantly.

Cheers
DD

 

Thank you! Thats exactly what im testing now, with the new clutch i can clearly hear turbo mode on cold engine, which i couldnt hear with old clutch before, i actually dont remember any engagement sound on old clutch, i will check new one with some test runs. After reading 10s of threads, i just realised how difficult to track not 100% bad clutch, if its not completely loosen or seized its quite hard to check it, and yes, hand spin is not really reliable as far as i understood.

 

Hi all. I replaced my clutch and also renewed the fan at the same time and mine works exactly as Doug has described. Massive amount of air flow when the clutch engages which I never had with the old one. Luckily my car doesn’t overheat even with the old clutch overheating was never a problem.
Rob.