Front Brakes
I've been absent from this forum for the past 6-8 years. Xjs has been running well. I'm about to install new rotors and pads on the front... anything else I should do while I have the brakes apart? Just sent the AAV off to be rebuilt. Hopefully that will solve my high idle.
Dave T
'90 Xjs convertible V12
Original owner
Dave T
'90 Xjs convertible V12
Original owner
It is worth checking the stub axles for wear when the hubs are off. They are still available new and not too expensive. If there is a slight groove where the bearings sit, then best to replace.
When fitting the new rotors, check carefully for runout with e dial gauge. More than 1 to 1.5 thou, remove and reclean the hub surface they sit on. If more than that, the discs will likely warp quickly if used hard and the pedal pulse.
Check the condition of the brake flexibles too.
Greg
When fitting the new rotors, check carefully for runout with e dial gauge. More than 1 to 1.5 thou, remove and reclean the hub surface they sit on. If more than that, the discs will likely warp quickly if used hard and the pedal pulse.
Check the condition of the brake flexibles too.
Greg
As said, plus,
Hoses is now mandatory in my opinion.
When pushing the pistons back in the caliper UNDO or REMOVE the bleed nipple so NO fluid travels back up the system. If you fail to do this the ABS system will die. No options then but borrow MEGA bucks to fix it.
Once refitted FLUSH the system with new fluid.
Hoses is now mandatory in my opinion.
When pushing the pistons back in the caliper UNDO or REMOVE the bleed nipple so NO fluid travels back up the system. If you fail to do this the ABS system will die. No options then but borrow MEGA bucks to fix it.
Once refitted FLUSH the system with new fluid.
Last edited by Grant Francis; May 9, 2015 at 05:51 AM.
Failure to Follow 'Grant's Advice' could then leave you with this little problem to sort out.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...photos-140828/
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...photos-140828/
This may sound like a dumb little thing compared to this other stuff, but aside from replacing hoses, repacking the bearings, and inspecting the tie-rods, Why not give the wheels a good clean on the inside?
I would go with EBC oem style rotors and EBC "Red Stuff" pads. Very low dust and great stopping power. I would paint the calapers with Red hi-temp paint.
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EBC Red Stuff pads are for hi heat. Racing-lotsa abuse.
EBCYellow Stuff are for midrange heat. Mountain driving with heavy braking.
EBC Green Stuff are for low heat. Everyday driving. Stop and go driving.
make sure you get the right pads for your driving. A performance brake pads dont work well at lower temps. The cheap pads dont work well at hi temp. The XJS is a heavy car and if you do some hiway and mountain driving go with a medium temp pad.
My 2 cents worth
EBCYellow Stuff are for midrange heat. Mountain driving with heavy braking.
EBC Green Stuff are for low heat. Everyday driving. Stop and go driving.
make sure you get the right pads for your driving. A performance brake pads dont work well at lower temps. The cheap pads dont work well at hi temp. The XJS is a heavy car and if you do some hiway and mountain driving go with a medium temp pad.
My 2 cents worth
Redstuff Ceramic Brake Pads
As EBC's flagship street brake pad material for prestige and faster cars above 200BHP
This is right from the EBC web site.
orange and Yellow stuff are their racing pads.
Automotive Archives - EBC Brakes
As EBC's flagship street brake pad material for prestige and faster cars above 200BHP
This is right from the EBC web site.
orange and Yellow stuff are their racing pads.
Automotive Archives - EBC Brakes
Last edited by RonaldP; May 13, 2015 at 11:40 PM.
I found that the green stuff pads are not up to stopping a hard driven XJS V12 for long before they are worn out. Red stuff will do repeated fast stops from 100 plus without fade.
Greg
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