Hi gents,

New issue, repeat issue rather. Actually repeat issue in all my cars!

I am not sure if it’s because I am a short distance driver , but all my cars -even my dd x type, develop vibrating front brakes within a short period of time.

Now it’s the XJS again, so I guess it’s time for new pads maybe front rotors too although that was done less than 4 k miles ago but 4 years....... Maybe a stuck caliper???? although I think a sticking caliper would pull the car to the side... hopefully it’s just the front pads

I am having my non-jaguar mechanic do the work, which means I have to give him detailed instructions on how to properly do it. I have the Teves 3 in my XJS.

if anyone has specific brake procedure instructions, please post them.

 

Mark,

In my experience, XJSs that don't do a lot of mileage can be prone to the pads sticking on the bottom corroding edge of the caliper, giving a really uncomfortable feel when braking.

It's really worth pulling the pads out each year, cleaning the edges of the pads, scraping any corrosion off the bottom mounting ledge of the caliper and reassembling with some copperease on the pad edges.

Cheers

Paul

 

This pieves me.

Vibrating as in rotor disc warpage? If so this can be attributed to over tight lug nuts. They should be Torqued to 65 to 95ft lbs depending on the wheel style you have. You also should make sure the threads are in good condition with a small about of anti seize. Run the lug nuts down by hand and make sure they go on freely.

Many mechanics use the same air tool for everything. It's a blunt instrument and these tools can generate up to 200Ft/lbs quite easily with sufficient air pressure. Even some of the battery powered tools can now generate up to 350Ft/lbs. Ask you mechanic to properly torque your wheels using a torque wrench. If he wont and why would he... he seems to be making a fortune replacing warped rotors. Then you should loosen them and tighten them yourself to the proper spec using the right star pattern. I've seen high end main line dealers who charge about 800 to 1500$ for a "proper brake job" blast on wheel nuts with out the proper technique. I have NEVER seen a line mechanic use a torque wrench. I questioned these same mechanics and get "um.. this tool only goes up to 100, or "I do it by feel" or I get just a blank stairs and the occasional outright burst of laughter. I have seen some wheel and tire shop use "torque sticks" to put on wheels. These shops tend to have young and idealistic car guys doing the work and using them is way better than not using them.

You can buy a basic torque wrench and socket 7/8 for under 25$ it will save you thousands. I learned to do this about 20 years ago and haven't have a warped rotor since. It literally takes 2 minutes per wheel and save you hours in shop time and thousands in rotors which all tend to come from china and soon may cost way more than they used to.

I've been installing wheels and have built motors that have been raced and using this item. It's good enough.
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-63882.html

 

To follow up from what icsamerica has said above.

Ever been stuck on the side of the road with a tyre that needs changing with only the factory supplied wheel spanner, it can be quite challenging if an impact gun has been used from the shop

Cheers
Steve

 

Hi gents-

I just got Pirellis for the XJS last month and it all was manually tightened......my 3 jags- even my DD X type - have had their rims refurbished. No one ever uses air guns on my rims lest they want me going after them with a real one lol