Not sure if the correct size will be in that kit - but you can improvise with sockets if you had to.


Also you'll want to check the housing where the bushing sits in. I've seen many in the past there they crack at the bottom. Make sure these aren't cracked. Used to work at an independent for a few years, ended up making braces to weld in for added strength.

 

 

Took me a couple of weeks to do mine (nights). Don't count on the old bushings coming out so easily. If you go with a homemade kit, heed the advice about grade 8 bolts. I would elevate the car securely - you're going to need a lot of space and leverage.

That said, definitely worth it. Got rid of some vibrations from the old worn bushings.

Padre

 

 

I used a tool like that one to do two of my rack bushings, the lower ones, but it wouldn't fit in the space around the upper one. For that I used some threaded rod, a socket, and one of the adapters from that u joint tool kit.

 

 

The rod you want is 5/16-18, btw, though I used 5/16-24 tpi. It isn't metric.

 

 

Do you mean the inner sleeve, or an outer one?

 

The old outer sleeve and bushing get pressed out as one. The new poly ones don't have an outer sleeve, and go in very easily, just push in by hand. Don't even think about installing new OEM ones. The design was dangerous from the start.

 

 

Yes you can take the steering rack out on ramps, but probably easier if you put it on jack stands.

 

 

I did all the work climbing under from the front, with the engine over my chest. Whether you are on ramps or stands makes no difference, but I can tell you that you want whatever it is to be very secure.

I had ramps under the wheels actually bearing the weight, and stands under the sills just in case.

 

 

I just replaced my steering rack bushes with neoprene two-piece bushes. I did mine in-place. I’d assembled a bearing removal tool using threaded rod, a slightly less than bushing sized socket and an socket larger than the bush to press it into.

Once I got in there reality and obstructions vetoed my plan. I puzzled it over for a bit and then solved it in shade-tree mechanic style.

First I drove the center sleeve out with a round drift. On two of mine I could just press it out with my fingers they were so badly worn. Then, using a cold chisel on the small exposed edge of the outer sleeve, I folded the sleeve inward at one point along its circumference, then again 90 degrees away, then drove the sleeve again between the two folds and the sleeve just pops out the back side. Easy peasy and not a scuff on the housing. Took about two minutes per.

I have a question about the shims I hope someone can answer for me.

There is a large shim/ 3 sided box frame that rides inside the double bush side mounting. What is the purpose of this? My new bushes are a mild force fit in the housings without any shims and I can’t imagine how to keep/get this box shim in place while installing with the new bushes. Do I have to sort this or can I put the box shim in my ‘stuff I’ll keep but don’t need’ crate?

 

Jaguar calls the 3-sided box a "stiffner". I call it a superfluous complication. I'm not sure what it is supposed to stiffen. It isn't very rigid.

On my first Jag I dutifully reinstalled it but as the years went by I noticed more and more old Jags without it....so I stopped using 'em.

As long as the rack a snug (not forced) fit into the mounting ears I'd say you're good to go.

Let's hear what others have to say.

Cheers
DD

 

Agreed.