Good way to hook this up?
#2
The gauge should have come with a wide band O2 sensor. You cannot use the stock O2 sensor because their range is limited.
You need to go to a muffler shop and have them weld a bung into the exhaust system so you can mount the wide band O2 sensor. Sometimes the bung will also be included with the gauge.
The wiring is very simple, just the O2 cable and 12V for the gauge.
Mark
You need to go to a muffler shop and have them weld a bung into the exhaust system so you can mount the wide band O2 sensor. Sometimes the bung will also be included with the gauge.
The wiring is very simple, just the O2 cable and 12V for the gauge.
Mark
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Ezrider (12-24-2014)
#5
Yes. They don't need to be placed directly next to the stock sensors but anywhere in front of the cats will work fine.
The instructions will probably recommend an angle that the sensors should be mounted. Show the instructions to the muffler shop and tell them to do the best they can within the space available.
Mark
The instructions will probably recommend an angle that the sensors should be mounted. Show the instructions to the muffler shop and tell them to do the best they can within the space available.
Mark
Last edited by Safari; 12-25-2014 at 09:57 PM.
#7
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#8
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
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i have mine mounted below dash left side., and lean/rich knob in middle glove box(pix).
use a seprate O2 sensor, im able to adjust A/F ratio while driving along, just watching the gage, can lean it out till engine stumbles(not at wide open throttle), and get close to 20mpg,cruising, touch of button richens up for WOT.
truth is once you get it set for everyday driving ,i leave it alone, some times to many gadgets to adjust can get you in trouble!
and my standalone ECU has many. did this back in 1995, ECU been upgraded twice!
couple random old pix,fuel system, etc.
use a seprate O2 sensor, im able to adjust A/F ratio while driving along, just watching the gage, can lean it out till engine stumbles(not at wide open throttle), and get close to 20mpg,cruising, touch of button richens up for WOT.
truth is once you get it set for everyday driving ,i leave it alone, some times to many gadgets to adjust can get you in trouble!
and my standalone ECU has many. did this back in 1995, ECU been upgraded twice!
couple random old pix,fuel system, etc.
#9
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Austin tx and Daytona FL.
Posts: 7,362
Received 1,231 Likes
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after you install the A/F gage how you going to calibrate the engine?
if using the factory ECU it probably will be fine as is!
that gage seems like a narrow band unit, for a V type engine(two banks of cylinders), and if you decide you need an A/F, a digital wideband readout is far more accurate
if using the factory ECU it probably will be fine as is!
that gage seems like a narrow band unit, for a V type engine(two banks of cylinders), and if you decide you need an A/F, a digital wideband readout is far more accurate
Last edited by ronbros; 12-26-2014 at 04:43 PM.
#10
#11
I bought it before I bought the car.
I read so many stories about the distributor cap and rotor failure along with the coils excreta that I thought I would be safer with it...
I really do not need to install it at all now, because a week after I got the car I was going to go to the gas station with my wife and fill up both her van and the Jag...
Low and behold she pulled out of the drive with NO torque... I made it to the stop sign and told my wife to meet me back at the house... I had one side of the engine not running... a lot more obvious than I ever thought it would be.... so I don't need a meter to tell me it is wrong... it is just blinky lights now... thought it might be fun...
oh I had the engine at full power and both side running in less then 5 minutes...
thanks to this site of course... went and filled the gas tank and went for a 20 or 30 minute drive
I read so many stories about the distributor cap and rotor failure along with the coils excreta that I thought I would be safer with it...
I really do not need to install it at all now, because a week after I got the car I was going to go to the gas station with my wife and fill up both her van and the Jag...
Low and behold she pulled out of the drive with NO torque... I made it to the stop sign and told my wife to meet me back at the house... I had one side of the engine not running... a lot more obvious than I ever thought it would be.... so I don't need a meter to tell me it is wrong... it is just blinky lights now... thought it might be fun...
oh I had the engine at full power and both side running in less then 5 minutes...
thanks to this site of course... went and filled the gas tank and went for a 20 or 30 minute drive
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