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I've been quiet on the forum lately, because I've been using my car for the purpose for which she was designed - long-distance touring at high speed. Well, reasonably high. Some of the time....
My father came over to visit my car (Lady Mary) - and me, I guess. The perfect opportunity to allow her to stretch her legs (wheels?) and blow some cobwebs out, as the PO had basically puttered around Tokyo I gather, and very little of that, too, in the last few years. My father said he wanted to see Kyushu, the southernmost main island, so I planned an ambitious route taking in Shikoku, Kyushu, and the Japan Sea coast of the western part of Honshu. The total length was estimated to be at least 2,500 kilometres, about 1,700 miles, over twelve days.
I put Lady Mary in for a pre-tour checkup, just to make sure she was running at more or less peak efficiency (or at least would have a decent chance of making the entire trip. Oil replacement, greased bearings, coolant topoff, and so on, plus mechanical checks and the like.
And then we were off.
Drove over the world's longest suspension bridge (span), the nearly-two kilometre Akashi Straits Bridge, and onto Shikoku, where we headed deep into the mountain valleys, to the Iya Valley, along the very narrow and twisty old route into it. So narrow that in many parts, it was not possible for two cars to fit pass by each other. Luckily the road was not heavily trafficked.
This is one of the most remote parts of the country, or was until tourism boomed (along with a wider alternative route in for the tour buses). But there are still remote corners where the tour groups don't go.
This is the view from a lookout about halfway along the old route:
And the car waiting patiently in the small carpark below:
After this, I noticed the car developed a slight clack from the rear when going round sharp bends sometimes. There's a leak in the diff, and while it got filled with oil before starting out, the garage didn't have the part on hand to properly repair it. I suspect this might be the source. It didn't grow worse, and only generally happens on seriously twisty roads. See the video to get a (speeded-up for increased motion sickness effects) of what the road was like:
I'd booked a restored farmer's cottage for the night. A bit over-restored, actually - there might have been three or four original beams left.
It was high on a steep hillside, with wonderful views over the valley.
My father admiring the engine:
The next day we visited the famous(-ish) Village of the Scarecrows (or Village of the Dolls) (A Dying Japanese Village Brought Back To Life ? By Scarecrows : Parallels : NPR), about half an hour's drive away. We actually encountered the person who makes them all, and had a nice chat. There's only 29 people living there now, down from a maximum of over 300. Mind you, that was when it was home to workers building the nearby Nagoro Dam - it was never going to remain that full of people.
From there, it was a short drive a bit further into the valley, past the dam, to the twin vine bridges. First created by defeated warriors of the once-mighty Heike clan, who fled their conquerers in this remote mountain fastness, using vine bridges to cross the narrow, fast rivers.
These days, they're tourist attractions, with entry fees, and are reinforced with steel cables. Still a very pleasant area indeed, however.
Crossing the bridges takes care, as you can see - it would be very easy to fall between the slats.
Leaving the valley via the modern route, which was steep and winding anyway (but two lanes the entire way), we stopped in Kochi for lunch, and to see the old castle there - one of the few remaining original keeps in Japan. Most were torn down after the feudal regime ended to remove symbols of the old power structure, while many of those that remained were lost in the air raids of WW2.
Then we headed out on the expressways to the remote Misaki peninsula, a pencil-strip of hilly land that projects out from the western end of Shikoku towards Kyushu.
Stayed in a small but quaint inn in the small town, and the next morning, before our ferry, we hooned down the even thinner and hillier spike of land as far as the road went. Unfortunately, due to narrow roads, construction, and not starting as early as ideal, we only had time to get to the carpark and snap a few pictures.
Didn't even bother turning the engine off....
The ferry to Kyushu took about 90 minutes, making it a nice relaxing trip. Once there, our next stop was the old ruins of Oka Castle, in Taketa.
There's nothing left there now but the old stone walls, rising high above the trees, but the castle is famous for being the inspiration for Taki Rentaro's music to the Japanese folk song, Moon Over the Ruined Castle. A haunting melody about the vanished glories of yesteryear, and how only the moon, shining on the ivy-covered walls, is the only thing that remains unchanged.
The castle site, aside from being atmospheric and interesting to wander around, offers wonderful views over the countryside. Contrary to popular opinion, Japan is not all concrete buildings....
In fact central Kyushu is one of the least built-up parts of the country, with great areas that could almost be North America or Europe. Up in the highlands around Kuju it's too high for rice, so this is cattle country. Lots of pastures and horse-riding adventure places and outdoorsy things. Basically it's Montana, Japan-style....
Wonderful wide open countryside with insultingly low speed limits. 40 kph?? Luckily pretty much no one pays attention to those.
Held the camera out the window and snapped at random:
The scenery, however, was pretty impressive.
By this stage, she'd done 1100 km. I checked the oil levels, and found them to be very low indeed - luckily I'd brought extra along, so topped her off with a couple of litres. But that's still quite a lot of oil gone through. My father, who drove Triumphs for decades, didn't seem remotely surprised, however. Anyway, I'll save Part II of this trip report for later, to avoid choking the system too much.
Thanks for your comments, everyone. There's more to come - that was only getting there.....
OB, I do process my photos a bit after taking them - just boosting contrast a touch, reducing highlights and boosting shadows to increase apparent dynamic range, changing white balance if it looks a bit off, some subtle enhancements to vibrancy and saturation (over-doing it is worse than under-doing it), and maybe some playing around with saturation levels for individual colours (e.g. just increasing saturation can make skies go an impossible shade, so I usually dial blue back a bit. Red shirts are another thing to watch). Sometimes you can achieve impressive changes with just some minor changes. Here's an untouched jpg straight from my camera (well, "untouched" is not quite right - the camera applies some processing, as I don't shoot jpegs as completely flat - that's what the RAW files are for):
BEFORE:
AFTER:
(I liked the way the sky really came on fire, so left it a bit exaggerated.)
We left off in central Kyushu, relaxing at a nice hotel in the highlands, with a lovely view over towards Aso in the distance. The plan was to drive up Aso the next morning, but on checking, I found that all roads up the volcano were closed off - damage due to the Kumamoto Earthquake last year. In fact there was a fair bit of roadworks going on in the hills repairing slips and other damage....
So we drove straight out to the ferry terminal, via getting some more oil, and having lunch at a famous ramen restaurant, in the carpark of which I spotted this:
The XJS does look quite delicate next to her baby (?!?) brother.... This was the only other Jaguar, of any sort, that I noticed on the entire trip, though I wasn't really keeping an eye out (but then I sort of spot Jaguars automatically...).
Rather than driving around to Nagasaki the long way, we took the ferry from Kumamoto to Shimabara. Here's Lady Mary awaiting her cruise:
I was getting something out of the car when two older women commented on how far I'm come (you can tell by the number plates), and actually recognised it as a Jaguar, complimenting me (or the car, really). This is not really that common over here - but on this trip people made positive comments about her three times, which made me happy. Especially as one of them was a young guy pointing her out to his girlfriend and saying "Wow, that's a Jaguar, that's so cool." Walking just behind him, I was tempted to say "Yeah, I know," but decided to act cool instead....
Anyway, while us humans got to ride up top, Lady Mary had to suffer through steerage class. Oh, the indignity....
Down this end of the country, it was distinctly hot. Upper twenties, and the sun was strong. Here's Lady Mary in the shadow (not quite literally) of Mt. Unzen, which erupted 25 years ago, burying a large part of this area in a mudflow - there's a small museum which preserves houses half-buried right by here.
A rather slow, dull, tedious drive through suburban wasteland later, we arrived at Nagasaki. Possibly more famous these days for being the second A-bomb site, it's actually got a lot more to offer, historically, than that - and more than Hiroshima. During the Edo period, when the shoguns ruled, it was Japan's sole contact with the Western world, with a small group of Dutch traders - restricted to an artificial island in the harbour, a large part of which has been reconstructed to form a rather interesting attraction. There's even guides in period costume wandering around - Japanese guides, so in Japanese costume....
My father's main reason for visiting, however, was to see Hashima, aka Gunkanjima (Battleship Island), which some of you may have seen featured as the villain's lair in Skyfall. The only way to (legally) get there is by tour boat, and you're restricted to a very small part of the island - most of which is extremely unsafe.
Should be fairly obvious how it got its nickname, no?
In its heyday, which lasted until 1974, it was a mining town, owned and run by Mitsubishi for about a century. But when Japan shifted from coal to oil to power its industries, the mines closed down, and the workers left. What remains has been battered by decades of typhoons, and is slowly falling into dust.
The island included everything needed for a small community, from schools and pools to shops, a nightclub, and even a shrine. Pay was good, and rent was heavily subsidized - locals had all the latest electronic wonders like colour televisions, though only the managers had their own private bathrooms and toilets.
Leaving Nagasaki, our next stop was the Yoshinogari Historical Park, where there was once an extensive Yayoi-period settlement, almost two thousand years ago, and large parts of which have been reconstructed. Fascinating, if rather hot. Lady Mary got parked in the shade....
Reconstructed watchtowers:
An ancient proto-Shinto ritual:
Back on the mainland (Honshu) after driving across the narrow Shimonoseki Straits, we visited one of Japan's biggest caves, Akiyoshi. The interior was quite large, with the main chamber being 700 metres long. The rock formations weren't terribly amazing, however -according to something I overheard, earthquakes tend to destroy the stalactites....
Then to the historical city of Hagi. Now a small backwater, but once home to many of the men who shaped modern Japan. The revolution that toppled the shogunate was led by men from Hagi (Choshu Domain) and Kagoshima (Satsuma Domain). So not only is the small city very well preserved, but it contains the birthplaces of many famous men. (Yeah, all men. No women.)
It's a lovely place to wander around, even on a day as hot as it was today.
After two nights here, we moved to Matsue for our final night on the road. Here's Lady Mary parked just outside Matsue Castle.
Matsue Castle is another authentic original, and well worth a visit.
They have some cool suits of armour on display inside too.
Spent the night at a large hot spring resort near the city. For some reason there were coloured lights in the tree.
Next, we have the Fukui Dinosaur Museum. A few species of dinosaur have been discovered in the area, and the prefecture has built a really rather impressive bone museum.
Supposedly the world's third-largest dinosaur museum, it also features full-sized models.
And its mascot, Dr. Dino. Sitting, in this case, on the grassed roof of the entrance hall. The main exhibit space is in the egg-shaped dome behind him.
Something we did a fair bit on the tour (high octane was averaging 140 yen per litre):
It was a nice change to experience this view, as my wife flatly refuses to drive the Jag.
And here we are, right at the end. I zeroed the trip computer before setting out to pick my father up, and this is it back home after dropping him off. Door to door, exactly 2,745 kilometres.
Full details from the trip computer:
Av. fuel consumption: 6.7 km/l (15.9 mpg) [We weren't generally trying to save fuel]
Av. speed: 57.5 kph (35.7 mph) [This includes a lot of expressways, believe it or not]
Total fuel burned: 405.2 litres (at around 140 yen a litre, say 55,000 yen in fuel)
Total distance: 2,745 km (1,705 miles)
Last edited by Some Day, Some Day; 06-08-2017 at 06:49 AM.
So how did Lady Mary cope with such a grand tour? On the whole, very well indeed. But not entirely fault-free.
Aside from the clank from the rear on sharp turns, which joins the clank from the rear on taking off from the lights, around the middle point we could smell petrol in the cabin when stopped, and at one point the trunk smelled of it. However that went away by itself, at least for now. I suspect the Rochester valve or whatever is dodgy. At one point, after a longish downhillish run, she was idling very lumpily, which worried me, but only that one time - the rest of the time she was normal, which is to say only slightly lumpily - the garage suggested engine mounts, but it could be a missfire only at idle. The only other issue was that she failed to start up first turn of the key twice. She never failed to start up, however. Cooling worked perfectly the entire time, which I was happy about. Also, by the time I got back, the front wheels were almost black from all the brake dust. That took a fair bit of cleaning....
So in summary, she behaved very well indeed. I have demonstrated that a Jaguar XJS is a very good car indeed for soaking up the miles. Not ideal, no - the tiny back seats meant we couldn't put much there, and getting it out wasn't easy. Also there could be a little more leg room, even on the passenger side. But she proved remarkably comfy to drive for hours on end at high speeds. Just effortless power, smooth and refined.
I still want to get the leaking diff fixed, and that slightly lumpy idle seen to, and she might be going through more oil than ideal, but I wouldn't hesitate to take her on another road trip. In fact, it's almost like she's asking me for it, begging me to let her loose again....
And yes, fixing the diff is top priority. I've read some horror stories about what can happen.... It got topped up with oil before the trip, but that was nearly 3,000 km ago now.
She does seem to run smoother now, in general, though I might be imagining things. Smoother and quieter.
I think what Grant means is now after a long highway drive where everything has been nice and hot for an extended period you'll find the oil consumption will be less than it was before.
Your clunk could be many things - rear transmission mount, perished rear suspension mounting rubbers, U joints, or some of the bolts themselves in the rear suspension are known to back off. It will take some investigating to find it.
The diffs do leak oil sometimes, it's often the output shaft seal O rings and/or seals. As long as it isn't excessive and getting oil on the brakes it isn't a major cause for concern.
I really enjoyed the photos, thanks for putting them up. One thing that surprised me a bit was the size of the parking spaces. They seemed larger than I thought they would. After just coming back from the UK where Jaguars don't really fit in most spaces the ones in Japan seem quite generous.
Consider submitting this to Jaguar World or some similar publication. They can't afford to send a writer on a trip through Japan so I'm sure they'd jump at the chance of presenting yours.
Thanks again for all the positive comments everyone.
The oil was 10W-40 semi-synthetic. The garage I go to uses Motul, I topped it off with Magnatec, and then bought some of a Japanese brand. All the same weight. It's hard enough to find much in the way of 10W-40 - 20W-50 would probably have to be ordered.
Yes, Grant's comment does suggest that, but the lack of oil in the sump after an extended highway drive suggests the reverse.
Thanks for the suggestions about what the clunk might be. The garage wondered if the original clunk, which happens on take-off much of the time, might be a loose baffle plate in the petrol tank and asked me to see if the sound stopped when the tank was full. The answer was no, tank fullness appears to have little to do with it. I also think rear suspension or something, as it's when the suspension is under stress - moving or cornering - that it appears.
O-rings and seals seems likely to me, too. After getting back, I slipped some cardboard under the rear, and checked it later, finding a couple of spots about an inch or so wide. I assume that even if it's not a cause for concern (brakes seem fine), it'll need dealing with eventually, as diffs need oil after all. A simple o-ring swap shouldn't be too bad.
That surprises me about parking spaces in the UK. By and large I have no problem fitting into bays in Japan (other than kei-only bays, of course). But the XJS is not really that big compared to Japanese cars - the Toyota Crown, for example, is virtually the same width, and a bit longer.
I'm not too sure how interested something like Jaguar World would be in this sort of amateur thing, but it's a nice thought that they would be. Couldn't hurt to write it up for publication and see if anyone's interested, I guess....
The Stuff that you come up with, is as far from being Amateur as its possible to get and you are a better Photographer than most of the 'so
called Pro's', so you need to 'own it'
I'm absolutely certain that a publication like Jaguar World, would really eat an Amazing and Adventurous road trip like that.
Especially if it also includes the Mechanical Problems you've had and how you've fixed them and you've got enough Material from all the places you've been.
To run a whole Series of Articles about driving your XJS in Japan and other Countries.
Magazines are always crying out for something different, so don't be Surprised if they sign you up as a Staff Contributor.
Thanks for the suggestions about what the clunk might be. The garage wondered if the original clunk, which happens on take-off much of the time, might be a loose baffle plate in the petrol tank
Absolute tosh. The thump is either, loose shocker, diff loose in cage or bottom wishbone diff mounts loose, universal joints going home in propshaft or drive shaft, worn diff input bearing, cage mounts going home, suspension fulcrums getting worn, radius arms, if you have a rear anti-roll bar, that item's fixings, etc etc.
Great posts and pics, thanks.
I was sceptical myself, actually. To give them their due, it was only a suggestion, rather than being based on an actual examination I gather, but it definitely doesn't feel like the fuel tank - drift shaft and so on sounds much more like it. I'm not sure if I have an anti-roll bar, but it's possible - I wouldn't be surprised if my car has the sports suspension that apparently was optional for V12s in 1992, as it's pretty sports car-like in terms of feeling every bump, and gripping like a limpet as it corners very flat. Mind you, that may just be standard.
At any rate, it doesn't seem to be getting worse, so I will leave it until I can get a Jaguar specialist to give the car a once-over.
06-06-2017, 11:23 PM
The Grand Tour with Lady Mary
