Hello guys and gals,

I know many of you have upgraded their huge A6 compressors against the smaller, lighter aluminium Sanden units. This unfortunately, as I found out today after talking to my local TÜV engineer who is a classic car appraiser, not a desired alteration to achieve the H plates as I want...

So, I have to stick with the A6 compressor.

I have two sitting here. My original one and one I got "for free". I have no idea if any of them work. My XJ-S had a running air con at first but it didn't cool long after that and as I removed the AC stuff in the engine bay, it was empty... So it was leaky.

Is there a way to check the A6 compressors prior installation for proper function? I have found some "overhaul kits", incl. rubber seals etc., but I am more so interested in knowing: is there a way to check the 3 pistons and clutch without taking it apart?

Also, are the stickers, as fitted to the compressors from factory, somehow still available? I'd be cleaning it up, spraying it black again, to tidy it up and then would like it looking "like new"...

Cheers

Damien

 

Firstly the A6 compressor is huge not just in size but in capacity as well and is very robust. With all the work you have done rebuilding it would be a good idea.

Secondly, the later 6.0L used a smaller compressor Sanden or Denso I'm not sure. But I do have a mount for the smaller compressor so I will be using this when I replace my engine. You could look at sourcing one of these mounts which would simplify adding a small compressor.

Either way will work.

 

I can't remember what stickers Jaguar used.

If you go to the Corvette/Camaro/GTO etc restoration vendors they all sell new stickers for the compressor....probably several different choices. I'm nor sure any would match what was used in the Jaguar application of the A6 but at least you'll be able to get 'something' that looks official for the finishing touch.

I don't know how to test or check a compressor before installation.

If you pull the sump plug and lots of metallic 'stuff' comes out....well...that would obviously be a bad thing

Cheers
DD

 

Smaller compressor wouldn't fulfill the requured norms for the historic plate I desperatly need to run the car... Sounds stupid but wirh a later model compressor, I'd lose the right... Unless it looks exactly the same...

Hey Doug,

Yeah, metal flakes would be the death of a compressor. I'll see if I can take the thing apart and then see what condition it is in...

 

Also, Daim, the seal at the front sealing the drive spindle between the pump part and the clutch and pulley is usually what kills compressors. They dry out and fail with no use, which is the real reason you should in a non XJS always switch on the aircon every week for a bit even in the winter. Renewing this seal is a must on a compressor that has been unused for a time.
Ggreg

 

Hey Ggreg (haha)

My aircons are always activated. No matter if winter or summer. 30°C or -10°C. On is on But yeah.

I'll be taking my compressor apart and seeing what condition it is. If it is okay, I'll reseal it. Of bad, I'll see what is good and see if I can make 2 into 1...

 

That is why I mentioned non-XJS cars, all XJSs are on all the time unless the whole unit is switched off. What I had in mind was if the units had been standing around doing nothing for months or years.
Greg

 

Wow that's rough, so what happens when a part is no longer available...........

 

It means you need to find the part you need in a better used condition and maybe somehow refurb it... Or you can remove the aircon system.

 

Tough system. We have something similar in Denmark, it's just not enforced and checked at a level like this.
Lots of old Beetles and US cars are heavily modified in Denmark, so I believe I will be OK even though my driveline is updated to HE.

Air con is possible to remove, but how about other parts, that become NA ?
You can't drive the car without headlights for example

 

That is oddly lesser problem. You can either have the ovals or the duals. You can modify to a certain degree but it must be periodic so stuffing a twin turbo AJ16 in wouldn't work for the desired plate. And it is checked every two years and if anything is worse, the H plates are removed...

 

Whew:


If it were me, I'd dump that theory. I'm checking into insuring my Jaguar as a "hobby car". What that takes, I don't yet know and will I accept a bunch of restrictions, probably not.


But, I get the idea that your issue is related to nannystateism. Just coined a word. Personal whims rule.


I suspect one might create a rig to test the things. Fire the clutch electricly and see if it engages. And charge the ports with air and a guage and see if it holds. Or the classic AC test applied tot he compressor alone. Pull a vacuum and see if it will hold it.


I sold the one from my car on it's engine demise. It was working perfectly at the time!!! But, the buyer advised me that his tech claimed it was bad. He was not displeased as the price he paid me covered the core value on a rebuilt one. Although, I sealed the ports on putting it away, I suspect the seals dried out and it leaked.


Too bad they are so heavy. I think good rebuilds are still available at reasonable prices stateside. Freight would be $'s


Good luck with the revival of those denizens.


Carl

 

Well, SNG sells some rebuilds or aftermarkets for something like €300 plus shipping, though I think a rebuild might just be cleverer. As said, I'll be purchasing the tool kit required (more special tools @Orangeblossom!!! ) and then see if I can simply refurb it before I install... Just to keep my mind happy

 

As said above, change the input shaft seal.
Check clutch by using jumper wires connected to the clutch terminals and connect to the car battery. The clutch should pull in.
Check compressor internals by rotating the input shaft while holding your hand over the one or both ports. You will feel the pressures / suction. Rotating by hand is probably fast enough to feel pressure. You could use a drill and socket for a better check of internal noise.
Neither check is definitive but will give about a 90% confidence factor.

 

I turn the nose of the compressor by hand, and put a finger over the outlet port. If it generates pressure, it's good.

I had the rubber seal under the backing plate go on one compressor, just took it apart and put in another.

 

Here's a can of worms.
What refrigerant do you plan to or are required to install.

 

Just out of curiosity, how do they know what is original? Do they have original photos and compare? Or is it a case of it just has to look right? in that case, the later Sander compressor might work, as it is Jaguar OE, and you can show it in the parts book for a Jaguar.

 

If your system was leaky, look no further than the retaining plate that holds the hoses to the compressor. The Jaguar one is about half the thickness of the one GM used on the A6 application, and then the bolt in the center is tightened, it bends the plate. Then the hoses are not held tight against the O rings and they leak. The solution is to fit the thicker plate.

If you're going to do this, it's probably a good idea to get some AC tools and then you can check for leaks yourself. As a minimum you'd need a vacuum pump and AC gauge set and hoses. They are cheap here, not sure about in Germany.

 

Thanks for the tips. I'll most certainly do that... At least I will know with that check, if the compressor is at least "useable" to an external degree. More details then when some rings are replaced.

It'll have to be either R134a (so new rubbers everywhere - but that is planned anyway) or maybe, if I can get hold of it, R412 as a drop in replacement to the R12 which was still in the system.

They have exactly those mentioned pictures. Some TÜV inspectors even require you to bring some factory brochures with you, as the engine is often shown in the brochures so they can compare.

Doesn't matter if the Sanden was later fitted to the facelift, what counts is what the car had from factory. The H-plate system is rather fiddly. VW Beetles get the plates basically without worries, by opening the bonnet and seeing it is all stock. Specialist cars, like Jags or Rovers (as an example) need proof that they are still stock or near stock - unless periodically correct modifications (bodykits, rims, exhausts) have been fitted.

I know it leaked but as the entire engine was oily and I couldn't see anything on the bonnet mat, it isn't clear where the system leaked from. Especially as also all the connections of the AC system were "moist" as well...

 

Sounds like you need to go over the system and replace all the O rings. What I do is I have and industrial hydrocarbon detector good for 5 ppm. I give the system about 30 psi of BBQ propane and then go over every joint with the gas detector. I can usually find any leaks quite quickly.