HE - Lucas - 2 ignition amps in parallel ?
#21
Is it the standard HE amp, i.e. the GM module? I think only the signal wire to the ECU is shielded, the rest is regular wire.
That behaviour sounds like an amp on it's last legs. The GM modules were mounted inside the distributor at the back of the engine, so they operated in a hot environment. Jaguar was rather clever actually, mounting it on the intake manifold means it has a large volume of cool air coming through the manifold and that acts as a great heatsink. If you've ever taken an IR thermometer around the various parts of the engine, the intake is considerably cooler than the rest of the engine.
That behaviour sounds like an amp on it's last legs. The GM modules were mounted inside the distributor at the back of the engine, so they operated in a hot environment. Jaguar was rather clever actually, mounting it on the intake manifold means it has a large volume of cool air coming through the manifold and that acts as a great heatsink. If you've ever taken an IR thermometer around the various parts of the engine, the intake is considerably cooler than the rest of the engine.
The issue is at super low engine performance, ie below 50 MPH, where I barely have to touch the throttle to make the car move. Opening the throttle will cool the inlet and thereby amp, so flooring it helps after a little time.It will probably also help to pull a caravan...
Leo
#22
So, my own XJ-S was ready to go again today. Quite warm day, 28C or thereabouts
what happens after 3-4 km slow driving ? You guessed it, it started missing just like before I changed my ignition amp. We continued for a while, but did quickly realize, that we might as well turn around.
When I floored it slowly nothing much happened except from puffing, but eventually it took off. Kick down worked well, it still pulls like stink.
back home I left it idling, picked up a small bag of ice cubes, placed them on the amp and drove off again.
Guess what: It drove without a single puff. Just smooth and nice.
i will now move my amp out to the front. Will I need shielded wire, or can it be done just with ordinary wiring ?
what happens after 3-4 km slow driving ? You guessed it, it started missing just like before I changed my ignition amp. We continued for a while, but did quickly realize, that we might as well turn around.
When I floored it slowly nothing much happened except from puffing, but eventually it took off. Kick down worked well, it still pulls like stink.
back home I left it idling, picked up a small bag of ice cubes, placed them on the amp and drove off again.
Guess what: It drove without a single puff. Just smooth and nice.
i will now move my amp out to the front. Will I need shielded wire, or can it be done just with ordinary wiring ?
I made studs as per photo (nut each side of the panel) added another nut for extra airflow space, placed the amp, nut and washer on top. Two important things:
You MUST run a good earth just like on the manifold. I ran it to the earth-point under the LHS radiator-panel fixing bolt.
Second, as it is Europe and not Oz, VERY carefully waterproof the amp. RTV round ALL the seams and holes where wires, plugs etc etc enter the box.
The following 2 users liked this post by Greg in France:
Grant Francis (07-23-2019),
leo_denmark (07-23-2019)
#23
Thanks Greg.
Great to to see how you have placed yours. Before you posted, I checked if there is room for it on the panel over the radiator like on the Marelli cars, but it would be very tight. And warmer. And still not dry. Your position is better.
I just checked, I have all connectors except from the bullet in stock in both make and female, so I will see if I can find the bullet and then leave the original connectors in place and make a connecting cable with connectors in both ends. Unless I change my mind and go for soldering in an extension. It is my car, after all...
I have edited my ice cube post, added a picture of the ‘setup’
Great to to see how you have placed yours. Before you posted, I checked if there is room for it on the panel over the radiator like on the Marelli cars, but it would be very tight. And warmer. And still not dry. Your position is better.
I just checked, I have all connectors except from the bullet in stock in both make and female, so I will see if I can find the bullet and then leave the original connectors in place and make a connecting cable with connectors in both ends. Unless I change my mind and go for soldering in an extension. It is my car, after all...
I have edited my ice cube post, added a picture of the ‘setup’
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Greg in France (07-24-2019)
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#25
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Grant Francis (07-25-2019)
#26
NOT XJS, but Peter in Melbourne, maaany years ago had the same with his S3 V12.
NO room out the front, so he mounted it under the passengers seat, on a heatsink thingy, with a PC fan.
Still works as far as I know, A/C comfort in Summer, and Winter, who cares.
NO room out the front, so he mounted it under the passengers seat, on a heatsink thingy, with a PC fan.
Still works as far as I know, A/C comfort in Summer, and Winter, who cares.
Last edited by Grant Francis; 07-23-2019 at 09:50 PM.
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leo_denmark (07-24-2019)
#27
Extension cable fabricated, amp sealed and moved, car driven 27 km this morning at 25C. Zero issues doing 40-45 km/h after getting off the motorway, and that is normally this biggest challenge. We will see 30C this afternoon, look forward to driving home !
My temp needle was sitting lower than normal. It is normally in the N, but stayed below today. I do not understand if overheating amp causes more heat in the engine ?? That said, my temp needle position is not really reliable...
My temp needle was sitting lower than normal. It is normally in the N, but stayed below today. I do not understand if overheating amp causes more heat in the engine ?? That said, my temp needle position is not really reliable...
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Grant Francis (07-25-2019)
#28
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leo_denmark (07-25-2019)
#29
Leo
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Grant Francis (07-25-2019)
#30
Ignition module overheating even when engine still cold
So we replaced the coil and the ignition module I side the amp. It starts and runs just fine. I am yet concerned that the amp box itself heats up very quickly and its not from engine heat cos below the amp housing it's still ice cold after a minute or two but the amp box is hot. So I'm saying the heat is not transferred from the motor. The module itself is exerting the heat. How is the earth wire run... From where to where cos I want to check that as a possible cause? Can a bad earth cause the heat build up?
#31
So we replaced the coil and the ignition module I side the amp. It starts and runs just fine. I am yet concerned that the amp box itself heats up very quickly and its not from engine heat cos below the amp housing it's still ice cold after a minute or two but the amp box is hot. So I'm saying the heat is not transferred from the motor. The module itself is exerting the heat. How is the earth wire run... From where to where cos I want to check that as a possible cause? Can a bad earth cause the heat build up?
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waheed1969 (04-04-2021)
#33
#34
Bad or iffy earths will cause all sorts of resistance, and that is heat in itself.
Most Amp heat, outside accepted, I have found to be:
OLD HT leads, or New that are too high in resistance.
Spark plugs gapped too wide, and then of course, OLD spark plugs, usually 1A and 1B.
Cap and rotor age and quality creeps in down that list a tad.
Most Amp heat, outside accepted, I have found to be:
OLD HT leads, or New that are too high in resistance.
Spark plugs gapped too wide, and then of course, OLD spark plugs, usually 1A and 1B.
Cap and rotor age and quality creeps in down that list a tad.
The following 2 users liked this post by Grant Francis:
David84XJ6 (04-05-2021),
Greg in France (04-05-2021)
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