Headlight Warning Lights Not Coming On 1990 XJS V12
#1
Headlight Warning Lights Not Coming On 1990 XJS V12
Hi Guys
Only just noticed the Headlight 'Warning Lights' on the dash (The White Ones) are not coming on, when I turn on the Headlights.
These 'Warning Lights' normally stay on for about 30 Seconds before they go off.
These 'Non Working Warning Lights' are on 'Cherry Blossom' which I have been restoring.
So they may not have worked for some time.
What could be wrong and where do I start looking?
Only just noticed the Headlight 'Warning Lights' on the dash (The White Ones) are not coming on, when I turn on the Headlights.
These 'Warning Lights' normally stay on for about 30 Seconds before they go off.
These 'Non Working Warning Lights' are on 'Cherry Blossom' which I have been restoring.
So they may not have worked for some time.
What could be wrong and where do I start looking?
#2
Hi Guys
Having removed the Knee Pad on the Drivers side, I have found a few wires that had been disconnected.
Which will hopefully give someone a Clue, as to why my Headlamp Warning Lights are not Showing on the Dash, when I turn my Headlights or my Side Lights on.
Hanging down from the Rotary Light Switch are Three Wires.
A (White Wire) a (Black Wire) and a (Brown Wire)
I'm fairly sure the (Black Wire) connects as shown in this Photo, as there is a very small piece of (Black Wire) Still in Place.
I think the (Black Wire) connects to where you see that bit of Solder that also has a bit of (Black Wire) still in place.
Which would just leave the (Brown Wire) and the (White Wire) to find a home for.
There are Also TWO Wires hanging down from the Ignition Switch:
One is (Black and Red) and the other is (Red)
If these are connected together in the right way, then the Headlight/Sidelight Dash Warning Light should come on.
Having removed the Knee Pad on the Drivers side, I have found a few wires that had been disconnected.
Which will hopefully give someone a Clue, as to why my Headlamp Warning Lights are not Showing on the Dash, when I turn my Headlights or my Side Lights on.
Hanging down from the Rotary Light Switch are Three Wires.
A (White Wire) a (Black Wire) and a (Brown Wire)
I'm fairly sure the (Black Wire) connects as shown in this Photo, as there is a very small piece of (Black Wire) Still in Place.
I think the (Black Wire) connects to where you see that bit of Solder that also has a bit of (Black Wire) still in place.
Which would just leave the (Brown Wire) and the (White Wire) to find a home for.
There are Also TWO Wires hanging down from the Ignition Switch:
One is (Black and Red) and the other is (Red)
If these are connected together in the right way, then the Headlight/Sidelight Dash Warning Light should come on.
#3
Alex
Do you mean the bulb failure unit is not illuminating for 20 secs or so when you turn on the lights?
Re under dash trim (different post): That looks like an aftermarket alarm and it looks to me like it is forcing the trim piece lower than it should be. I suspect the trim is not fixed as per factory.
Greg
Do you mean the bulb failure unit is not illuminating for 20 secs or so when you turn on the lights?
Re under dash trim (different post): That looks like an aftermarket alarm and it looks to me like it is forcing the trim piece lower than it should be. I suspect the trim is not fixed as per factory.
Greg
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orangeblossom (07-10-2017)
#4
Alex
Do you mean the bulb failure unit is not illuminating for 20 secs or so when you turn on the lights?
Hi Greg
Yes! The Bulb failure unit (didn't know it was called that) is NOT illuminating for 20 Seconds.
Those loose wires do have something to do with it, because if you cast your mind back the immobilizer was what I thought was a 'Possible' cause of the Engine not Starting.
So in my 'Wizdom' (not!) I started to randomly cut those Wires! (I know!!!!!) the result of this was that I accidentally disarmed the Immobilizer (GOOD)
But in doing so I also disarmed the Bulb Failure Unit (BAD)
If I can re-connect the correct Wires the Bulb Failure Unit (Will Work) as it was working fine before I went and cut those Wires!
Re under dash trim (different post): That looks like an aftermarket alarm and it looks to me like it is forcing the trim piece lower than it should be. I suspect the trim is not fixed as per factory.
Greg
Do you mean the bulb failure unit is not illuminating for 20 secs or so when you turn on the lights?
Hi Greg
Yes! The Bulb failure unit (didn't know it was called that) is NOT illuminating for 20 Seconds.
Those loose wires do have something to do with it, because if you cast your mind back the immobilizer was what I thought was a 'Possible' cause of the Engine not Starting.
So in my 'Wizdom' (not!) I started to randomly cut those Wires! (I know!!!!!) the result of this was that I accidentally disarmed the Immobilizer (GOOD)
But in doing so I also disarmed the Bulb Failure Unit (BAD)
If I can re-connect the correct Wires the Bulb Failure Unit (Will Work) as it was working fine before I went and cut those Wires!
Re under dash trim (different post): That looks like an aftermarket alarm and it looks to me like it is forcing the trim piece lower than it should be. I suspect the trim is not fixed as per factory.
Greg
The Dash Trim 'is fitted Correctly' and the Alarm 'Thingy' you mentioned is a Bleeper Speaker for the now defunct CAR ALARM, which was always more trouble than it was worth.
The Trim Pad has Clips at the Bottom which Clicks onto a Metal Bar just above the Brake Pedal.
Which you can see in this Photo:
The Trim Pad Clicks onto the Metal Bar just above the Brake Pedal.
Which gets in the way of putting your foot on the Brake Pedal.
Not so on my 1989 XJS which doesn't have the metal bar or the Cumbersome Trim Pad, as in this Photo:
On my 1989 XJS there is no Metal Bar or Cumbersome Trim Pad in the Way of the Brake Pedal.
Greg:
That 'Trim Pad' on 'Cherry Blossom' is making the Car 'dangerous to drive' as even with light shoes on, the toe of my size 9 shoe, often catches the edge of the Trim Pad.
Though the Metal Bar does not seem to get in the way.
That Trim Pad is really causing a Problem and puts me on edge every time I go for the Brakes.
With the Trim Pad removed the Car does feel a lot Safer, as the design of that Trim Pad leaves a lot to be desired.
The following Photo shows the Trim Panel in place, which very often catches the toe of even a light pair of Shoes.
That Trim Panel can catch the toe of even a light pair of Shoes.
Last edited by orangeblossom; 07-11-2017 at 03:57 AM.
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Greg in France (07-11-2017)
#5
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orangeblossom (07-11-2017)
#6
It doesnt look terrible with the trim pad removed. i reckon if you cant modify it, take it off, put it in a bag and chuck it in the boot , only to be refitted if you want to do a "concours".
If you feet catch with an auto, you would be tied in knots if you had a clutch to shove.
Unless of course you wear clown shoes and you are not telling us
If you feet catch with an auto, you would be tied in knots if you had a clutch to shove.
Unless of course you wear clown shoes and you are not telling us
#7
Hi Greg
When you turn on either the Headlights or the Sidelights, a Warning Light used to come up on the Dash for 20 Seconds and then go off again.
This no longer happens since I messed about with the Wiring although it did work fine beforehand.
As for the Knee Pad it cannot be modified, as the Spring Clips are right on the edge but what makes things even worse.
Is if you put a supplementary Car Mat, over the top of your Jaguar mats to preserve them which then reduces the non existent Clearance even more.
It's causing me to 'second guess' braking situations, where my foot is already hovering over the Brake Pedal.
But when an unexpected Braking situation occurs where you have to go for the Pedal as quick as you can.
Then you are really leaving it in the 'lap of the Gods' that your foot doesn't catch.
When you turn on either the Headlights or the Sidelights, a Warning Light used to come up on the Dash for 20 Seconds and then go off again.
This no longer happens since I messed about with the Wiring although it did work fine beforehand.
As for the Knee Pad it cannot be modified, as the Spring Clips are right on the edge but what makes things even worse.
Is if you put a supplementary Car Mat, over the top of your Jaguar mats to preserve them which then reduces the non existent Clearance even more.
It's causing me to 'second guess' braking situations, where my foot is already hovering over the Brake Pedal.
But when an unexpected Braking situation occurs where you have to go for the Pedal as quick as you can.
Then you are really leaving it in the 'lap of the Gods' that your foot doesn't catch.
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#8
It doesnt look terrible with the trim pad removed. i reckon if you cant modify it, take it off, put it in a bag and chuck it in the boot , only to be refitted if you want to do a "concours".
If you feet catch with an auto, you would be tied in knots if you had a clutch to shove.
Unless of course you wear clown shoes and you are not telling us
If you feet catch with an auto, you would be tied in knots if you had a clutch to shove.
Unless of course you wear clown shoes and you are not telling us
I've also got a Manual MGB which Does have a Clutch, where my Normal size 9 Shoes have loads of room to maneuver.
But since the Car feels like a death trap with that knee pad in place, I am indeed intending to take it off and keep it in the Boot.
#9
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orangeblossom (07-11-2017)
#10
#11
Alex
That bulb comes on when the side or headlights are first turned on. It is a bulb failure warning light and it is a function of the system that it illuminates for a bout 20 seconds then goes out. If it does not go out then it means a sidelight or headlight bulb has failed. There is also a circuit for a brake light having failed which illuminates the same bulb.
As well as this, with the handbrake ON, the bulb failure light should illuminate if you press the brake pedal. First question, does this happen?
Greg
That bulb comes on when the side or headlights are first turned on. It is a bulb failure warning light and it is a function of the system that it illuminates for a bout 20 seconds then goes out. If it does not go out then it means a sidelight or headlight bulb has failed. There is also a circuit for a brake light having failed which illuminates the same bulb.
As well as this, with the handbrake ON, the bulb failure light should illuminate if you press the brake pedal. First question, does this happen?
Greg
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orangeblossom (07-11-2017)
#12
#13
a) the lights are OFF
b) the handbrake is on,
c) the ignition is ON, and
d) you press the brake pedal?
Greg
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orangeblossom (07-11-2017)
#14
b) when you pull the handbrake on there is an Orange Warning Light on the Dash
c) when the ignition is on, as soon as you pull on the handbrake an Orange Warning Light comes on (pressing the brake pedal is not required and doesn't make any difference)
Before I messed up the Wiring, a WHITE Warning light would come on the dash and go out after 20 Seconds.
Its the Wiring that's the problem, not the bulb or the timer.
#15
Alex
The handbrake warning light comes on when the handbrake is applied (the orange warning light you mention). Understood.
What I am suggesting you diagnose is something else. The bulb out warning light that used to come on when you switched on the lights does so no more. Understood.
However, this warning light ALSO will come on under the circumstances a,b, c, d, that I mentioned above.
I am still not clear from your reply whether you have tried this test or not.
The reason for the test is that slightly different circuits are involved. If under my suggested test the light were to come on, that would reduce the search area. If it does not, then it widens the search.
Greg
The handbrake warning light comes on when the handbrake is applied (the orange warning light you mention). Understood.
What I am suggesting you diagnose is something else. The bulb out warning light that used to come on when you switched on the lights does so no more. Understood.
However, this warning light ALSO will come on under the circumstances a,b, c, d, that I mentioned above.
I am still not clear from your reply whether you have tried this test or not.
The reason for the test is that slightly different circuits are involved. If under my suggested test the light were to come on, that would reduce the search area. If it does not, then it widens the search.
Greg
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orangeblossom (07-12-2017)
#16
Hi Greg
When I pull the Hand Brake on, an Orange Warning Light comes on the Dash, regardless of whether I push the Brake Pedal or not.
Hand Brake Warning Light (Orange)
What is causing the Problem with the Side Light/Head Light Warning Light not coming on for 20 Seconds, are these Loose Wires.
Which need to be reconnected but I've forgotten how they go.
If I could re-join these Wires in the right order, then the Sidelight/Headlight Warning Light
would be working again.
When I pull the Hand Brake on, an Orange Warning Light comes on the Dash, regardless of whether I push the Brake Pedal or not.
Hand Brake Warning Light (Orange)
What is causing the Problem with the Side Light/Head Light Warning Light not coming on for 20 Seconds, are these Loose Wires.
Which need to be reconnected but I've forgotten how they go.
If I could re-join these Wires in the right order, then the Sidelight/Headlight Warning Light
would be working again.
#17
Alex
Attached the circuit diagram.
The large oblong "lights" above the actual warning lamps are reflectors (not actual bulbs) which are designed to catch the eye of the driver when a real warning lamp illuminates.
In your photo, these oblong reflectors are being lit by the oil pressure warning light and by the handbrake warning light. The idea was that if the red oblong is illuminated the matter is serious, the orange one, not so much!
The bulb failure light circuit attached should enable you to follow the colours and re-attach things!
Greg
Attached the circuit diagram.
The large oblong "lights" above the actual warning lamps are reflectors (not actual bulbs) which are designed to catch the eye of the driver when a real warning lamp illuminates.
In your photo, these oblong reflectors are being lit by the oil pressure warning light and by the handbrake warning light. The idea was that if the red oblong is illuminated the matter is serious, the orange one, not so much!
The bulb failure light circuit attached should enable you to follow the colours and re-attach things!
Greg
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orangeblossom (07-12-2017)
#18