XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

High Idle and throttle cable

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 5, 2018 | 10:51 PM
  #1  
Doug's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,520
Likes: 11,712
From: Pacific Northwest USA
Default High Idle and throttle cable

Had problem with a too-high idle a few weeks ago. This one was easy to diagnose. When the idle was too high...which was most of the time.... a quick jab at the throttle would restore normal idle speed, suggesting a mechanical problem. A simple process of elimination revealed that the problem occurred only with the throttle cable attached to the capstan.

Ordered and installed a new cable (Jaguar) and the problem was solved....and has remained solved. The old cable had a 'hitch'.

But......

The new cable, seemingly identical on cursory inspection, is apparently slightly longer than the original because, no matter how I fussed with adjusting, I cannot get the kickdown to work. It worked with the old cable. There isn't enough 'pull' for the little bump on the cable to actuate the kickdown switch. The only way I can make it work is to adjust the WOT stop on the capstan wayyyy inward which prevents the throttles from opening up all the way. Not much point in having an operational kickdown if the throttles fall 20% short of fully openinng.

I was slightly suspicious when the Jaguar parts catalog listing shows the same cable as used on the V12 E-type. (Bear in mind I have a V12 sedan, not an XJS). I think the inner cable is a bit longer even though, as stated, the two cables look the same at first blush. I think someone at Jaguar goofed....or whoever makes the cable for Jaguar goofed.

I tried operating the kickdown switch from the full load switch....which actuates at about 75% throttle. That's a bit too agressive; kickdown comes too easily. I had this arrangement on my XJS years ago and thought it was great. I guess I'm mellowing with age....and, besides, my 3.31 diff adds extra response so that an aggressive kickdown really isn't needed. Still, I'd like the kickdown to be operational.

I'll have to do some mulling on how to get around this.

Cheers
DD


 
Reply
Old Oct 6, 2018 | 12:43 AM
  #2  
Jagboi64's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 3,509
From: Calgary, Canada
Default

Do you still have the old cable? If you go to a better bicycle repair shop or marine supply place they might be able to replace the inner cable and put the appropriate ends on it and make it to the exact length you need.
 
Reply
Old Oct 6, 2018 | 12:52 AM
  #3  
Doug's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,520
Likes: 11,712
From: Pacific Northwest USA
Default

Still have the old cable. A new inner cable sounds promising....but I wonder if the kickdown 'bump thingy' might pose a problem. Maybe I'll take the old cable apart for a look-see

Cheers
DD
 
Reply
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 10:09 PM
  #4  
944xjs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 678
Likes: 106
From: Illinois
Default

Is the cable an easy fix? Mine does the same high idle unless I pull back on the pedal with the top of my foot. I’ve gotten used to it... but don’t want it doing it when my wife drives.
 
Reply
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 10:36 PM
  #5  
Doug's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,520
Likes: 11,712
From: Pacific Northwest USA
Default

Originally Posted by 944xjs
Is the cable an easy fix? Mine does the same high idle unless I pull back on the pedal with the top of my foot. I’ve gotten used to it... but don’t want it doing it when my wife drives.

It's a cakewalk, Just disconnect it a both ends, remove, replace. The work under the dash is a little cramped but you're not under there for very long. At the pedal end there's a little cotter pin to deal with...no big deal unless you're all thumbs like me

Cheers
DD
 
Reply
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 10:45 PM
  #6  
944xjs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 678
Likes: 106
From: Illinois
Default

Originally Posted by Doug
It's a cakewalk, Just disconnect it a both ends, remove, replace. The work under the dash is a little cramped but you're not under there for very long. At the pedal end there's a little cotter pin to deal with...no big deal unless you're all thumbs like me

Cheers
DD
ok nice... the crampedness never bids well for me though. ha
before replacing is there any adjusting or lubing possible?
 
Reply
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 10:52 PM
  #7  
Doug's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 25,520
Likes: 11,712
From: Pacific Northwest USA
Default

If the cable in binding here's no adjustment that will fix it. None that I can think of, anyway.

You could try lubrication....and hope whatever you're using reaches the trouble spot. Generally, though, cables are meant to operate dry. Lubrication tends to attract dirt. That what Gramps told me, at least.

Cheers
DD

 
Reply
Old Oct 9, 2018 | 11:08 PM
  #8  
944xjs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 678
Likes: 106
From: Illinois
Default

Originally Posted by Doug
If the cable in binding here's no adjustment that will fix it. None that I can think of, anyway.

You could try lubrication....and hope whatever you're using reaches the trouble spot. Generally, though, cables are meant to operate dry. Lubrication tends to attract dirt. That what Gramps told me, at least.

Cheers
DD
yeah I haven’t had time to see exactly where the problem lies... must be the cable though. The capstand will snap back if I twist it, but as soon as I tap the throttle it sticks open to about 1200rpm
 
Reply
Old Oct 10, 2018 | 12:42 PM
  #9  
Vee's Avatar
Vee
Veteran Member
15 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,331
Likes: 1,742
From: Arlington, VA
Default

Originally Posted by 944xjs


yeah I haven’t had time to see exactly where the problem lies... must be the cable though. The capstand will snap back if I twist it, but as soon as I tap the throttle it sticks open to about 1200rpm
I have no idea what engine or anything you have, but have you tried cleaning the throttle body? It could be gunk that has collected on the butterfly.
 
Reply
Old Oct 10, 2018 | 11:16 PM
  #10  
944xjs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 678
Likes: 106
From: Illinois
Default

Originally Posted by Vee
I have no idea what engine or anything you have, but have you tried cleaning the throttle body? It could be gunk that has collected on the butterfly.
88’ v12... no gunk and set earlier in the year
 
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2018 | 12:41 AM
  #11  
baxtor's Avatar
Veteran Member
10 Year Member
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 1,374
From: Australia
Default

Originally Posted by 944xjs


88’ v12... no gunk and set earlier in the year
Maybe check the return springs on each throttle body. The turntable return spring may snap that back on it's own but not have enough strength with cable attached. From memory they need to be installed right way up to avoid fouling the throttle mechanism.
​​​​​​
 
Reply
Old Oct 11, 2018 | 04:51 PM
  #12  
944xjs's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 678
Likes: 106
From: Illinois
Default

Originally Posted by baxtor
Maybe check the return springs on each throttle body. The turntable return spring may snap that back on it's own but not have enough strength with cable attached. From memory they need to be installed right way up to avoid fouling the throttle mechanism.
​​​​​​
I’ll have to take a look
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WayneHWilson
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
8
Jul 27, 2018 06:04 AM
Redeye
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
2
Jun 30, 2017 12:36 AM
Boeingtravel95
XJ XJ6 / XJR6 ( X300 )
2
Feb 27, 2017 09:54 AM
yyk
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
4
Jun 7, 2016 05:50 PM
mick99
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
1
Mar 2, 2013 04:38 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:21 AM.