All back together, filled coolant, let it idle for 30 minutes and the needle stays half way between C and N. I can tell stats are working now, needle goes a hair above half way and then goes back down a hair to half.
Before needle would go up into the N and stay. It did not even get hot enough for aux. fan to turn on even after turning engine off, it always came on before.

The bottom rad hose is a bitch to get clamp on as it is against fenderwell, took me almost an hour to get it back on.

I cleaned between evap and rad, flushed engine and rad separately,installed new 180* stats. I'm thinking bad stats as between evap and rad was pretty clean, a little debris.

It only held 4 gallons, when it cools down will see if it is low. Book says 5 gallons and 1 quart.

Will post again this evening after a good smoke test on highway and in town.

A BIG THANK YOU to all that gave help.

 

It's also a point that leaked for me, but it was a trickle and only leaked for a short-time well after shutdown. So you might keep an eye on it, and see if it needs another quarter turn on the clamp.

Congrats!

 

It was dripping so I turned till it stopped, I drove it now not dripping but running.

 

Drove and it did great 45 mph, Mcdonalds drive thru started moving to the bottom of N. When I got home turned engine off and fan still spinning fast for less than a second. I assume this is a bad clutch ?
The bottom rad hose is leaking a stream. Oriley has a fan clutch.
Sure blew the hell out of my day.

 

I brought my 1998 Chevy p/u up to temp turned off motor and fan stops dead.

I will get a fan clutch for the Jag if this does not fix, this winter I will trade it in to dealer on a new car as I do not want to pass the problems on to an individual. I have had this jag for 5 years and nothing but trouble. I have had it!!! Can't drive and enjoy,just work on it.

 

Hi Mac

I still don't think there is anything wrong with your Fan Clutch.

When you first Start your Car when the Engine is Cold the Fan will Spin but when the Fluid inside the Clutch Starts to heat up, which it will do quite quickly.

That is the moment that the Clutch will really get a grip and Spin the Fan Fast and kick up a Storm of Air from underneath, enough to flatten Grass.

Once the Thermostats open and things start to settle down, the Fan will start to modulate itself although it will be Spinning Faster than it was on first Start up.

When you reach your destination and Turn the Engine Off.

The Clutch will still maintain its grip and should Stop Spinning 'Almost as soon as the Engine does'

If the Fan just kept on Spinning when you switch the Engine Off, then you should consider fitting a New Clutch. (not the other way round)

So if the Fan Stops Spinning in a couple of Seconds when you Switch the Engine OFF.

Then that is exactly what it should be doing.

The only exception being that you can't Spin the Blades with a Flick of your Finger when the Engine is Switched OFF.

Which is a definite sign the Clutch has seized and needs replacing.

 

That is what I said in my post, when I got home engine was hot, when I turned engine off the belt driven fan kept spinning fast, and later after engine was hot I took a rolled up news paper and by letting it rub the fan blades the fan stopped easily. My Chevy truck when hot and turn off engine the fan stops at the very same time engine is turned off. I have put 220,000 miles on the Chevy and never has it ever came close to over heating.

 

Ok Mac

Sorry misunderstood what you were saying.

 

I agree that the clutch is very suspect.

Also, the fact the radiator has a weep/leak, in will not build up pressure, so the system is working at "atmosphere" and the temp will rise in those conditions.

It cannot be successfully bled with a leakage.

I would sort the leaks for now. Bleed the thing as you know how. Try the drive test, it may be fine, but that clutch is always suspect.

 

As you've said that bottom hose clamp is a real bitch. What has happened to me a couple times is that the clamp shifts slightly out of position while being tightened and ends up partially on the wrong side of the sealing ridge on the radiator nipple.

The fix might be as simple as loosening and repositioning the clamp, and making sure it stays in position while tightening.



Things will look better tomorrow!

Cheers
DD

 

Good!



Which was probably perfectly OK. A steady mid-gauge reading is nothing to complain about, typically.

It would be a good idea to use a handheld infra-red thermometer to get a rough idea of actual temperature and corresponding needle position on the gauge. On my XJS the middle of the N was about 190º...which is perfectly OK.


As I recall the fan switch is set to about 200ºF. In and of itself running 200ºF isn't going to hurt anything




There was certainly some coolant still residing in the engine thus preventing you from refilling with the full 5+ gallons. Or perhaps an air pocket...which is not a good thing. Did you thoroughly bleed the system?

Cheers
DD

 

If you're only getting to the bottom of the N the temp sensing coil on the front of the fan clutch might not be 'seeing' enough heat to trigger the little internal valve.... which in turn allows the viscous fluid to flow into the chamber to firmly engage the clutch.

But, when it comes to a fan clutch, "when in doubt, change it out"

Cheers
DD

 

Definitely change the clutch. if it spins when the engine is hot it is NOT being turned directly by the fan belt, so NOT pulling air through the rad. No point in doing all this work (many congratulations too) and spoiling it all for want of a vital part.

 

I agree with your advice but I think we need to define "hot".



Cheers
DD

 

(1)-Before the needle gets to the bottom of the N the Aux fan comes on.
(2)-I flushed engine and rad separately and think I got all liquid out with air pressure,maybe not.
(3)-Will get a new clamp,undue it slip it on as the old clamp had some bends in it.
(4)- Off to get clutch and clamp, I will post again this evening.

 

Which suggests, to me, that either the fan switch is faulty and triggering too early or the coolant is hotter than your temp gauge suggests.

Or....perhaps someone has fitted a fan switch with a lower trigger point? This seems less likely, but possible.

Cheers
DD

 

A clamp with bends???? No way, no how. The things are not perfect, even as new. Any ? ones need to be tossed.


And, a mere screw driver is inadequate to get them tight. Especialy in cramped spaces. Most also have hex heads in 5/16" or 3/8". Use a socket and rachet. Extensions as necessary.


As to the air bleed, it might be necessary to jack up the front of the car, so that the bleed screw is the highest point in the system.


Carl

 

Doug,I will get a lazar temp gun and check the engine temp
JagCad, I did use a socket after leaking using a screwdriver but still leaks. I have to go get the clutch and clamp, wont work on it till tomorrow, I need a break,chill out,relax.

In my younger days,(now 61) I would get disgusted working on vehicles and end up doing more harm than good. Now days when I feel the pressure coming on I back away for a few hours or wait till next day, saves knuckles, tools,sanity.

 

JagCad--bottom of front tires are 18'" off floor, should bleed air.
I got lucky with the hose clamp, unscrew it all the way then slipped it over the hose, held my finger on the thread end,put 3 long extension together, got the socket on the nut started turning and it threaded to my surprise.

Now I will tackle fan clutch, which is easier work from top of motor or under the car?
Thank you