I've installed a mechanical capillary tube temp gauge in the rear RH water rail fitting where the now removed AIR (smog) pump thermal switch was...luckily it's a 3/8 NPT hole. So I'm running temporary screens in my top hose inlets. After 3 clean-outs, they are still getting crud in them, and the blockage will raise my temp. I think I'm "SAFE" at up to 220 F or even a bit more. Is this a safe assumption?

 

 

I don't think 220ºF, in and of itself, should cause any problems...if you're confident that you have good flow everywhere in the engine. If you don't have good flow to all areas then, heck, you could be in trouble with a temp gauge reading of 180ºF.

But, if you're hitting 220ºF on a regular basis, you have some work to do.

Cheers
DD

 

Have you tried using a wetvac shop-vac to suck the crap out? Youd be shocked at what comes out of the top Rad inlets when applying a bit of force/suction. A LiquiMoly rad flush or gallon of metal rescue would do wonders to.

a more effective and permenant solution would be a spin on coolant filter, the tebfa style screens catch pebbles at best. You need to filter the silt and sludge.

 

No I'm not hitting 220F on a regular basis. It is a signal to me that the filter/screens are getting clogged. I don't want to run it and clog up my rad until I filter this crud out. So I haven't run it for a long period w/o the screens yet. When they are clean I'm holding 180-190. The fine mesh screens are working good...it's just a PITA to drain coolant and refill after cleaning them; so a spin on filter may be in her future. (Glad I had a drain **** added though).

 

Anymore info on a spin on coolant filter system? Sounds like a pretty cool way to spend some money.