Dear friends,

I want to jack the XJS at the front. Where in the front middle can I position the lifting jack so that can lift the car and put two jacks underneath at the front left and right lifting points.

Thanks for help.

 

You really can't, unless you have a long, low-profile jack that can reach to the crossmember.

DO NOT jack under the radiator. It won't support it and will bend.

Jack 'em up one at a time.

Padre

 

Just a thought... Could drive up on ramps and then get a jack under the cross-member and then jack a little higher to remove ramps.

 

If your jack can't reach to the front subframe, just drive the front left wheel up on to a plank or similar, just to give you enough space to then get the jack to reach to the subframe. Use a pad or similar to avoid denting the subframe when jacking.

I use a small bottle or trolley jack on one jacking point just to raise one side an inch or two and then I can get my main jack to reach the subframe.

Good luck

Paul

 

I have a low profile floor jack and use a section of 2x12 wood between the jack saddle and the front cross-member. The 2x12 is cut to the width of the cross-member. No damage to the cross member so far.

Even with a low profile jack you have to get the wheels or crossmember up a bit to slide the jack underneath. I have ramp extensions that I drive onto that lift the car about 2-3". Before I had those I used to drive up on some 2x12 pieces with the front sawed off at angle.

 

A must in an XJS DIY owners tool shop should be a high lift low profile floor jack, mine is 75mm low and 500mm up. I can get it under the subframe with a block.

I do not use jack stands. I use wooden platforms under the wheels, this way I can get the car up as high as I need

 

This look like a good idea:

 

Well, my car is an 83 XJ wuzza six. Similar underside to the XJS.
I use two methods of raising the nose.


1. Ramps. Remembering to "'chock" both rear wheels. Did that the other day. To change the oil and filter. And, to make access to the driver side scuttle easier for my old bones.


2. During my cranking travails, I used my HF sourced big trolley jack.
It easily reaches the front cross member. Chocks again. And jack stands under each front spring pad. Quite safe. Adding blocks under the front wheels even better. Three ways. Jack, jack stands and blocks.


As to the rear, add a block to the Trolley to protect the softer plate.
Mine is a bit battered. Not by me, but by others.


I've had it up front and rear. Combo of both methods. Luckily, pulling the 4l60E proved unnecessary. Vendor forgot the three torque converter bolts!!!


Carl

 

I use a low profile trolley jack with 20mm timber pad to crossmember no problem, goes straight under xjrs bumper and all, just.
I have made up additional square top fits to jack for lifting rear under centre of cage without damaging the bottom plate.
.

 

Thanks to all for the input. Just to be sure I don't do anything stupid, does anyone have a picture or drawing where the front crossmember is highlighted.

 

Andreas,

Be careful. There is a Front Subframe which supports the engine, front suspension etc. This is what some people are referring to as a "crossmember" It is safe to jack the car under this.

BUT, in front of this is the Radiator Crossmember. A thinner metal panel which acts the radiator support bracket. Do not even think about jacking the car here!

Paul

 

Here it is, slap bang in between the front wheels.
Greg

 

@ ptsj1 and Greg: thank you!

 

A lot of good ideas for safely jacking your XJS.
I recently had an issue while my car was off the ground on jack stands.
I was changing my starter and left the rear wheels installed while on the jack stands. Long story short I went to the garage to finish reinstalling the exhaust and found the left rear side sagging to the ground. The rear frame rubber mounts had separated. Now I have 4 new rubber mounts.

 

This happens quite often, and can be dangerous if the car is up on a 2 post lift, or if you are working underneath the rear axle cage. Unlike the front subframe, there is no safety bolt running through the rear subframe mounting bushes, if they become delaminated, the axle falls out! It is good practice to place your supports under the rear cage, or your jackstands under the driveshafts, if the rear is to be left jacked for any length of tine.
When I raise my car on the lift, I always place the lift arms just behind the front bush of the rear axle radius arms, so the pad is half on the bush and half on the arms; this supports the axle quite enough for it to be safe.
Greg

 

What works are you trying to achieve by jacking up the front end?
Do you want both front wheels off the ground at the same time so that you can do some work on the underside of the car?
Can you do the job by jacking the car up on one side at a time?
It is NOT safe to jack the car up under the front cross member unless you are 100% convinced that the cross member is sound; mine looked fine from underneath but when it came out everything was like Swiss cheese.
Everything single thing that was not visible from the underside was totally rotted away, how the thing stayed on the road is a complete mystery to me.
Just be very, very careful.

 

Steve"


WOW, that front member is a hefty box section. Rotted from the top???


When I removed the 4.2 from my XJwuzza six I found the top of that member well caked in rust protection... It took oven cleaner and a spatula and elbow grease to get it clean. When I was done, I gave it a liberal coat of Rustoleum black. Trouble is that my LT1 is not a leaker.
so, a new coat of protection will not form.


However, our clime is usually dry and car rot is not an issue.


I do lift my car with a trolley jack on that front member. But, no way
will I work on it with no other support. Under or not. Jack stands under the spring pads. And the rear wheels chocked, front and aback.


Carl

 

 

I use a 1-ton jack to lift one side at the front jacking point enough to be able to have the 3-ton jack clear the spoiler and center it on the crossmember. The advantage of this is makes it easier to see the crossmember and make sure your jack contact is in the right place.

 

Hi Andreas,

Some good ideas already. The nice thing about wood is that it tends to yield and creep rather that fail in a brittle manner like bricks.

You definitely need a "low entry" trolley jack to reach the cross member (take care what Paul says about not confusing with rad support). When I first had my XJS the jack would not get under the front of the car and I lifted slightly with a scissor jack under each lifting point behind the front wings enough to get the trolley jack under. I only needed an inch or two lift so just lifting the car slightly on the springs rather than taking full weight on the scissor jacks. Eventually I had to replace both front springs due to a broken one and now the trolley jack will just slide under without the need to lift on the scissor jacks first. I guess the new springs have raised the car slightly.

Good luck and take it safely.
LeeP