Injector seals
#1
#2
#4
Hi brinny
Britcar is the place to go for Injector Seals, I got 12 for around £5
Its a fairly easy job, doable in a Weekend
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/section.php/14258/1/xjs
Britcar is the place to go for Injector Seals, I got 12 for around £5
Its a fairly easy job, doable in a Weekend
https://www.brit-car.co.uk/section.php/14258/1/xjs
#6
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, US
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What engine is in your car? The injector seals are different depending on the engine year
Pull the fuel rail as a unit and then set the seals into the intake manifold before placing the fuel rail in place. Each injector has a plastic pintel in place. The pintels are fragile so be carful to set the fuel rail with the injector tips facing up.
Becautious disconnecting the injector connectors at each injector. The connectors get brittle from engine heat and age.
If you have not already done so, down load Kirby Palm's Help for the XJS Owner from JagLovers.org. There are a lot of tips about XJS cars in this book. You can replace the seals in a weekend. Don't waste your time changing the rubber seal between the outer metal ring and the injector It is the tip seal that is important.
Check the injector hoses. If not flexible and free of cracks, you need to buy a few feet on injector hose (not fuel hose) {Injector hose looks similar but is rated for the higher PSI in the injector system).
Also, in the trunk right hand side is a fuel relay and fuel injection relay. I think the injection relay has the red stripe diagonal across the top. Pull the relay and turn the engine over for about ten seconds ( I usually time 20) to bleed the fuel pressure from the fuel rail. Save yourself some grief and reinstall the relay right after bleeding the fuel rail.
Pull the fuel rail as a unit and then set the seals into the intake manifold before placing the fuel rail in place. Each injector has a plastic pintel in place. The pintels are fragile so be carful to set the fuel rail with the injector tips facing up.
Becautious disconnecting the injector connectors at each injector. The connectors get brittle from engine heat and age.
If you have not already done so, down load Kirby Palm's Help for the XJS Owner from JagLovers.org. There are a lot of tips about XJS cars in this book. You can replace the seals in a weekend. Don't waste your time changing the rubber seal between the outer metal ring and the injector It is the tip seal that is important.
Check the injector hoses. If not flexible and free of cracks, you need to buy a few feet on injector hose (not fuel hose) {Injector hose looks similar but is rated for the higher PSI in the injector system).
Also, in the trunk right hand side is a fuel relay and fuel injection relay. I think the injection relay has the red stripe diagonal across the top. Pull the relay and turn the engine over for about ten seconds ( I usually time 20) to bleed the fuel pressure from the fuel rail. Save yourself some grief and reinstall the relay right after bleeding the fuel rail.
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v1rok (06-09-2018)
#7
What engine is in your car? The injector seals are different depending on the engine year
Pull the fuel rail as a unit and then set the seals into the intake manifold before placing the fuel rail in place. Each injector has a plastic pintel in place. The pintels are fragile so be carful to set the fuel rail with the injector tips facing up.
Becautious disconnecting the injector connectors at each injector. The connectors get brittle from engine heat and age.
If you have not already done so, down load Kirby Palm's Help for the XJS Owner from JagLovers.org. There are a lot of tips about XJS cars in this book. You can replace the seals in a weekend. Don't waste your time changing the rubber seal between the outer metal ring and the injector It is the tip seal that is important
Check the injector hoses. If not flexible and free of cracks, you need to buy a few feet on injector hose (not fuel hose) {Injector hose looks similar but is rated for the higher PSI in the injector system).
Also, in the trunk right hand side is a fuel relay and fuel injection relay. I think the injection relay has the red stripe diagonal across the top. Pull the relay and turn the engine over for about ten seconds ( I usually time 20) to bleed the fuel pressure from the fuel rail. Save yourself some grief and reinstall the relay right after bleeding the fuel rail.
Pull the fuel rail as a unit and then set the seals into the intake manifold before placing the fuel rail in place. Each injector has a plastic pintel in place. The pintels are fragile so be carful to set the fuel rail with the injector tips facing up.
Becautious disconnecting the injector connectors at each injector. The connectors get brittle from engine heat and age.
If you have not already done so, down load Kirby Palm's Help for the XJS Owner from JagLovers.org. There are a lot of tips about XJS cars in this book. You can replace the seals in a weekend. Don't waste your time changing the rubber seal between the outer metal ring and the injector It is the tip seal that is important
Check the injector hoses. If not flexible and free of cracks, you need to buy a few feet on injector hose (not fuel hose) {Injector hose looks similar but is rated for the higher PSI in the injector system).
Also, in the trunk right hand side is a fuel relay and fuel injection relay. I think the injection relay has the red stripe diagonal across the top. Pull the relay and turn the engine over for about ten seconds ( I usually time 20) to bleed the fuel pressure from the fuel rail. Save yourself some grief and reinstall the relay right after bleeding the fuel rail.
Thanks for your help. It’s a 5.3 marelli
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#8
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, US
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That is what I have in my 90 XJS.
My suggestions should be right what you need.
While you have the fuel rail out, I recommend that you remove the distributor cap and remove the rotor to inspect it. These cars are notorious for having the rotor short over time to the post of the distributor. Easier to get at the distributor while the fuel rail is out.
When you look at the pintels at the end of the injector, you can live with a vertical crack, but not missing pieces.
I remember there being a vendor that sells replacement pintels, which will snap on the end of the injector. You might have to search archives for the thread. The tip of the injector is steel with a steel pin controlled by a solenoid.
When you place the fuel rail back on the engine, after you insert the seals in the intake manifold, do not secure until you check that each injector is inserted into the seal. only then install the plates that hold the injector to the intake.
I like to take a Q-Tip and wipe a little silicone spray inside each seal to make it easier to slide the pintel though it.
Use some sili
My suggestions should be right what you need.
While you have the fuel rail out, I recommend that you remove the distributor cap and remove the rotor to inspect it. These cars are notorious for having the rotor short over time to the post of the distributor. Easier to get at the distributor while the fuel rail is out.
When you look at the pintels at the end of the injector, you can live with a vertical crack, but not missing pieces.
I remember there being a vendor that sells replacement pintels, which will snap on the end of the injector. You might have to search archives for the thread. The tip of the injector is steel with a steel pin controlled by a solenoid.
When you place the fuel rail back on the engine, after you insert the seals in the intake manifold, do not secure until you check that each injector is inserted into the seal. only then install the plates that hold the injector to the intake.
I like to take a Q-Tip and wipe a little silicone spray inside each seal to make it easier to slide the pintel though it.
Use some sili
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orangeblossom (06-10-2018)
#9
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, US
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Took a phone call right in the middle of the post.
What I was going to say was put the rotor back in, but put a little silicone RTV indide the rotor where it inserts over the post. That helps delay the rotor shorting problem. Do not put a lot.
Resecure the distributor cap before you put the fuel rail back on.
If I can suggest. while the rail is off, consider replacing the spark plugs because you will have more room with the rail off.
What I was going to say was put the rotor back in, but put a little silicone RTV indide the rotor where it inserts over the post. That helps delay the rotor shorting problem. Do not put a lot.
Resecure the distributor cap before you put the fuel rail back on.
If I can suggest. while the rail is off, consider replacing the spark plugs because you will have more room with the rail off.
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orangeblossom (06-10-2018)
#10
yup...
stay and keep things organized. dont drop stuff in... and take your time. i think you are already a liiiiiitle bit more than the weekend mechanic - ummm, you own a jaguar, lol
more,,, i would say ask a few more questions here before. there are a lot of cool things that can be done while you are in there and have things apart... and not hard. just precise-ish... attention to details. and having the STUFF there, before you start.
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middle
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stay and keep things organized. dont drop stuff in... and take your time. i think you are already a liiiiiitle bit more than the weekend mechanic - ummm, you own a jaguar, lol
more,,, i would say ask a few more questions here before. there are a lot of cool things that can be done while you are in there and have things apart... and not hard. just precise-ish... attention to details. and having the STUFF there, before you start.
old
middle
new
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orangeblossom (06-10-2018)
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