I've done some searching, both on site and across the web, and I've got a couple questions, with those regarding the lock solenoid to be the most pressing. Recently, I've replaced the driver's door handle on my newly-acquired '88 XJS, and run into an issue where the lock actuator will either lock or unlock the door, depending on its placement, but not both. I've isolated the problem:



Part 13 - the rod that connects the lock barrel to the solenoid itself.

From the paddle, an adjustable rod connects to a fitting on part 12 which, when moved, agitates part 10 up and down, and in so doing moves part 13 back and forth. The lock actuator is supposed to react to this and lock/unlock the doors as appropriate, but you already know this.

The issue I'm running into now is that part 13 isn't moving far enough to activate the lock solenoid. I've tried adjusting the turnbuckle on the rod that connects to part 12 and is supposed to be the first domino in the mess, and in fact I've even removed it to move the part manually, and have it set up now to where it is traveling with its full range, so the issue isn't there.

Because the solenoid was acting a little lazy even before the replacement, sometimes requiring me to throw the paddle with conviction or move it back and forth a couple times to get its attention, I firmly believe the weak link is the solenoid itself. I have two ideas:

1) Move the mounting point of part 13 further from the fulcrum of the lock barrel so that its travel is further. I think I can accomplish this by bending a new rod, or fabricating some kind of extension. Changing the length of the rod isn't going to do much for me here - the throw is still going to be the same.

2) Servicing or replacing the actuator. I'm assuming it's sealed up pretty tight, but I'm also assuming that maybe by cleaning some contacts or lubricating a few trouble spots there's a chance I might just make it out of this without spending a dime.

My main questions are, of course, has anyone had any experience with these - can they be revived, or am I better off replacing them? If I need to replace them, am I bound to the Lucas 76580/DAC3047 or are there other parts that will work in a pinch? I know from '89 on, a Kiekert part was utilized. Can this be used on my '88 with minimal bloodshed if it's all I can find? My attempts to cross reference any of these parts have been dead ends.

I have tried adjusting the position of the solenoid, and I've even loosened the handle to adjust its placement in hopes that might accomplish something. Time and time again I'd thought I'd found my "Sweet spot" where the tension on the solenoid was just on the verge of triggering, but I still only have action one way. Presently, the solenoid is positioned so that I can lock both doors with the driver's paddle, but only unlock the driver's door.

Any input is appreciated.

 

You have my sympathy, I spent 2 days getting mine to lock and unlock properly when I changed the lock.

It must be that either lost lost motion or insufficient motion is your problem. I think that there should be little plastic inserts in the holes that the rods go into, have you got these on your handle, and do they keep the rods tight so that any movement moves the handle actuator? Also the actual handle lever fulcrum may be worn so that motion is lost there, or the solenoid plunger hole is worn.

Have you tried adjusting the link between the paddle and part 12 as well, to remove any lost motion in that part of the mechanism?

It may also be that the solenoid is not moving quite far enough. Well worth trying to get it apart and look. Second hand ones are plentiful (in UK from Grublogger, for example, but loads of other places) if you ruin yours when taking it apart.

Good luck
Greg

 

I have tried adjusting that rod, yes, but to no avail.

The shop told me they were having trouble getting her locked (I buckled and bought snow tires,) and I just assumed they were trying to lock her before the closed the door (which they might have done) but they weren't kidding - even with the paddle in the lock position, the door still opens from the outside.

I think my problem now might be linked to part 12 up there. When it gets warmer out, I'm going to attack it with a bottle of graphite lube, and poke and prod at just about everything until I get some satisfaction.

When you turn the key to the lock position, this pushes part 13 into the lock solenoid, signaling it to lock the doors, and also pushes down on rod 10, locking part 12 to the bolt on the door.

I actually have extras of those little plastic inserts, so I can afford to screw up (a little) when it warms up enough for me to dig back in.

There are a few sources for lock solenoids over here, couple of surprisingly well-stocked yards, and then there's always eBay. I did a little searching for a potential replacement, and found one "generic power lock actuator" that makes a point about having a real "central locking" function, so I might do some research into that (if I can ever find it again) and maybe even burn the forty bucks on it just for the sake of experimentation.