XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Metal/rusty flakes in Coolant Expansion Tank

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Old Jul 14, 2018 | 08:09 AM
  #21  
Doug's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Some Day, Some Day
Sounds odd. The passageways inside the core would be the same size as a rad, one would assume.

I suspect so, yes, although I've never actually thought to look.

But the heater core (itself merely a small radiator) is much smaller then the engine radiator. The same coolant flows through both, leaving the same deposits as it goes. The smaller radiator would surely clog first as it has far fewer tubes and smaller tanks.

Well, that's my ultra-scientific take on the matter

No doubt other factors come in. The velocity of the flow, position of the heater core, the coefficient of linear expansion....stuff like that !

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Jul 14, 2018 | 08:14 AM
  #22  
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Ah, cooled then heated, not heated then cooled. That was it.

Oddly enough, I still have air out the centre when turned down from full cool. Difficult to tell these days actually, as for some reason I have to turn it almost all the way down to the warm side to get it to stop trying to freeze the interior. I don't mind the freezing part so much, but the fan is on louder than I'd like (and yes, changing the fan speed up does increase it), so to get to try for a temp where it won't blast requires turning the temperature knob well past halfway. Odd.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2018 | 08:25 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Doug
All incoming air is refrigerated first, for dehumidifying, and then heated as required. The only time the heater valve is closed is when the system is in 'full cooling' mode. If you have air coming out of the center dashboard outlet, you're in full cooling mode....as that's the only situation when the center vent is open.

The heater valve is open at all other times: blend mode, heat mode, and defrost.

If you're in a particularly warm environment and make lots of shorter trips the valve might be closed most of the time.

Cheers
DD
Yeah, that is what I had in mind. Wouldn't otherwise make much sense. Otherwise you'd just get too much heat or too much cold (if one or the other was actually fully off).

I remember talking to a Volvo technician (they know how to make a good heater!) and the heater valve there was always on, even if the heating is turned off... That is why I found it a bit weird to have the heater valve switch off and therefore reducing the full flow of the heater core to a lower output.
 
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