New owner of a Glacier White with Barely leather 1994 XJS V12. VIN SAJNX2340RC190049. 65k miles. Originally sold in California and stayed there until 1999 when it was moved to Colorado. In Colorado from 1999 until 2022 when the Colorado owner passed away and the car transferred to his daughter in Rhode Island. Has maintenance records of new plugs, cap and rotor, but I think I'll confirm and replace just to know for certain. New plug wires as well. Also plan on ordering a radiator/heater hose kit and replacing all the hoses and drive belts. I have an old school radiator shop I've used in the past and may have them check out the condition of the radiator. Another preventative measure will be replacing fuel lines and rebuilding the injectors.

The car has all of the proper VIN decals on all the panels, the front lower valance isn't so much as scaped up, stock radio works, top works and is like new, and overall, I am very happy with the car.

It does need a few things like replacing the sun visor clips, the top switch is a bit worn from use, the engine compartment needs a good detailing (dusty from being garaged) and all fresh fluids. The previous owner ran Mobile 1 10W30 synthetic and I was under the impression conventional or diesel 20W50 was the preferred oil? I have used Shell Rotella in my older Mercedes. Other than that, I plan on enjoying the car and giving it anything she needs.

 

I run Mobil 1 15w-50 in my 96 XJS 6.0 coupe. The V12 prefers thicker oil. Specific weight recommendations are in the owners manual, but 15w-50 covers all the bases.
I'd change the tranny fluid and filter, as well as the diff oil. Be aware that although the transmission is a GM 4l80e, it uses a different pan gasket, regardless of what the common suppliers say. I just got a couple of the correct ones from Terry's Jaguar Parts. Everything else, except the internal wiring harness, is the same as any other 4l80e. The diff uses 75w-90, but be sure it has limited slip additive. I use Valvoline synthetic, and it has the additive already in it.

Bleeding/flushing the brake fluid on the TEVES MkIII ABS system you have requires a very specific procedure. I'll let others address that, as I have the later Mk IV system. However, until they do, never just push back the brake pads to change them without opening the bleed valves first.

Have fun!
Jon

 

Shouldve bought a new car. These facelift cars are the worst. People always stare, take pictures, interrupt you at gas pumps, and try to lure you into casual sex. Im simply done with the whole experience. I want to just live a slow life. Im up at night feeling like a horrible person because a range of 28-58 year old women keep wanting to show me what life with them would be like. Am I a bad guy? No!!! I just own an XJS. My girl doesnt believe me though. So we argue all of the time and have more sex than I can handle. I just wanna work on my car without interruptions. I made a mistake years ago by getting into XJS. Dont be like me.

 

Well, I know my Girlfriend said the car is "sexy", not sure if that translates to the driver or not.... Lol... After looking at a number of cars I do feel the white is a good color on the car, but that is just personal preference.

What are the following part recommendations?

Spark plugs? NGK BR6EF? Rock Auto has these at a good price.
Plug wires? NGK? Something thicker to combat the heat in the valley?
Distributor cap and rotor brand? I have heard horror stories about some aftermarket brands and or fake brands that don't last. I don't mind paying good money as long as it is the best product, e.g. Marelli even with their shortcomings.

Terry's Jaguar Parts list two different caps that vary greatly in price. What is the difference? Seems the rotor is no longer available???

OEM Distributor Cap V12 Marelli 1989 - 1996.
$126.79
https://www.terrysjag.com/product/JHP1909OEM.html

Genuine Distributor Cap Marelli 1989 - 1996
$226.67
https://www.terrysjag.com/product/JHP1909.html

 

Try to get the proper set of plug wires.
Some don't have the correct elbow connector boots or the helpful marker bands.
Changing the plugs is at least a full day job so expect delays.
Don't forget to use anti-seize on the threads.
I found it very difficult finding Magnetti Marreli caps and rotors.
The rotors have a habit of melting and shorting out.

 

Don't use diesel oil, make sure it is rated for gasoline engines. The type of oil is very important.

When I worked at a company that manufactured oilfield equipment the customer ( an oil company) had a policy to only use their own lubricants. The engine was natural gas fired and they didn't make a natural gas rated oil, just gasoline. So they used a gasoline rated oil, of the recommended viscosity and the engine made it about half way to the first oil change interval before it seized. A new engine was $2 million dollars and they were back ordered for a year. A very expensive lesson in using the right oil!

For viscosity, you want the first number to be as low as possible, and the second number to match whatever Jaguar recommends. Don't go too heavy, such as 20W-50, it's simply not needed, and oil that is too thick actually can provide worse lubrication as it doesn't flow into bearing as easily as a thinner oil. It also tendsto shear more and that creates heat in the bearings.

That 20W-50 recommendation for British cars is a holdover from the Mini that has combined transmission and engine oil. In service the oil was quickly sheared down to about an SAE 30 anyway. In the V12 I'd go with something like a 0W-40 or 5W-40 in a warm climate, perhaps lighter in a cold climate. As long as you have sufficient oil pressure at idle when hot you have no need for heavier oil.

 

There are some diesel oils rated for gas engines. If it has an s rating (i.e. sl) it is good for gas.Shell Rotella is a line of heavy-duty engine lubrication products produced by Royal Dutch Shell. The line includes engine oils, gear oils and coolants. The oil carries both the American Petroleum Institute (API) diesel "C" rating as well as the API gasoline engine "S" rating. Ratings differ based on the oil. Rotella oils, like the T3 15W-40, meet both the API CJ-4 and SM specifications, and may be used in both gasoline and diesel engines.

As a plus, Rotella has zinc which is needed for flat tappet engines.

 

Yes, some are dual rated for gasoline and diesel, but not all are. You have the read the ratings carefully.

 

Agreed on knowing the rating. I only say a diesel oil as they (Shell Rotella) have a more robust ZDDP additive that has good anti wear properties. I know oil conversations can be touchy and unless you really know what PAO base stocks are used and the true composition of the oil even some oils that call themselves synthetic are not true 100%, laboratory created, base stocks, not even Mobile 1. I believe some of the true synthetic oils are Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, Motul, etc. Oils that can be called synthetic in the US don't meet the same standards in Europe.

 

If not original Jaguar wires what is a good quality alternative?

Denso
Karlyn
Bremi
STI

 

I used to use Rotella, but then a few years ago it changed from being dual rated to only diesel rated. Perhaps the service rating changes by country?

 

15w-50 Mobil 1 is high in ZDDP,(zinc/phosphorus) needed in older engine designs like the V12 with flat tappets. If you live in a hot climate, 15W-50 is good. If you live in a cooler climate, 10w-40 is fine. But you want something that is high in ZDDP. Some "high mileage" oils are, but not all.

Jon

 

Sun Visor clips occasionally come up on ebay but sometimes repairing what you have is a better idea.

 

Magnacore, NGK, etc, any good quality make will be fine. 8 or 8.5mm diameter.

 

I replaced my sun visor clips with new ones for cheap from SNG Barret. Tip buy some Oatey putty and fill the new hollow clips with it. They will never break again.

 

I went with Magnacore 8.5mm wires, the red ones, 2 NGK coils and NGK BR6EF plugs. Still deciding on what to do about a cap and rotor. Would love to find a NOS Marelli, but that seems like a long shot.

SNG Barret is actually where I found the sun visor clips in Barely. The best part or most dangerous part is they are only about 45 minutes from me.

After driving the car a bit a few other issues have popped up.

Speedometer, Odometer and trip meter are not working. I am hoping it is as simple as a bad transducer on the transmission.

Brake lights are not working, and I am getting an intermittent ABS light. Bad brake light switch on the pedal?

Fuel level gauge reads about 3/4 when filled.

 

Brakes lights not working was a blown fuse. Easy fix.

Now I have discovered the reverse lights are not working. The fuse is good. Where to now, the micro switch under the ski slope?

Correct me if I am wrong, but on the 1994 cars the transducer is actually a speed sensor on the rear diff? This is what could be the cause of the speedo, odometer and trip meter not working?

Oh the joys of sorting out a new to me Jaguar.

 

Yes, the speed transducer is in the back cover of the diff. There is also a box between it and the speedo, trip computer, and cruise control that converts the sensor signal into something they can use.

 

I can see us having many fun memories in this car. My girlfriend loves the car just as much as I do.

 

Repair the sunvisor clips with epoxy by filling the entire thing with it, if you buy new ones, fill the cavity with epoxy to prevent them from breaking. Sexy car and the girlfriend looks good too. Although, I would paint the grill black to give it some contrast