New Life to XJS 4.0
#1
New Life to XJS 4.0
I just bough my first jaguar, 95 XJS 4.0 AJ16, with 175k, Need a transmission, found a used ZF for a good price, car now drives, Next problem when driving engine has lack of power at times once warm up, driving you can feel engine stall the power returns. check ODB codes P0300 random miss fire.
also fuel gauge moves a lot when driving, sometimes stable, Once you make a turn or hit a bump in the road gauge goes to empty low fuel light comes on then goes out,
I have change fuel filter, New plugs, valve cover gasket and rings, an one new coil pack,
any ideals ??
Jaguar Libra
also fuel gauge moves a lot when driving, sometimes stable, Once you make a turn or hit a bump in the road gauge goes to empty low fuel light comes on then goes out,
I have change fuel filter, New plugs, valve cover gasket and rings, an one new coil pack,
any ideals ??
Jaguar Libra
The following 2 users liked this post by Jaguar_libra:
hankspond (12-18-2014),
orangeblossom (11-03-2014)
#2
I just bough my first jaguar, 95 XJS 4.0 AJ16, with 175k, Need a transmission, found a used ZF for a good price, car now drives, Next problem when driving engine has lack of power at times once warm up, driving you can feel engine stall the power returns. check ODB codes P0300 random miss fire.
also fuel gauge moves a lot when driving, sometimes stable, Once you make a turn or hit a bump in the road gauge goes to empty low fuel light comes on then goes out,
I have change fuel filter, New plugs, valve cover gasket and rings, an one new coil pack,
any ideals ??
Jaguar Libra
also fuel gauge moves a lot when driving, sometimes stable, Once you make a turn or hit a bump in the road gauge goes to empty low fuel light comes on then goes out,
I have change fuel filter, New plugs, valve cover gasket and rings, an one new coil pack,
any ideals ??
Jaguar Libra
#3
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest USA
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P0300 is a misfire code. Check your coil wiring for damage. And, you *might* have another coil or coils beginning to fail
also fuel gauge moves a lot when driving, sometimes stable, Once you make a turn or hit a bump in the road gauge goes to empty low fuel light comes on then goes out,
Search 'slosh module' for postings.
I'm not familiar with details but the subject comes up (and the module gets replaced) fairly often
Cheers
DD
#4
I had the same issue and codes & engine light on.
Did two (2) things
1. Check all of the coil wires. I had some bare wires and with the rain it causes misfire. Retaped all bare wires.
2. Used some fuel injector cleanout. Did a bottle for each tank fill up two (2) times.
My engine light went out and no more misfire codes.
Good Luck
Softball60 Paul
96 XJS 4.0L 2+2 Convertible
1957 XK 140 Drophead Coupe
Every other British Sportscar known to Mankind
Did two (2) things
1. Check all of the coil wires. I had some bare wires and with the rain it causes misfire. Retaped all bare wires.
2. Used some fuel injector cleanout. Did a bottle for each tank fill up two (2) times.
My engine light went out and no more misfire codes.
Good Luck
Softball60 Paul
96 XJS 4.0L 2+2 Convertible
1957 XK 140 Drophead Coupe
Every other British Sportscar known to Mankind
#5
Happy Holidays
Update on New life for XJS,
Still having problems trying to Pass smog, Motor run's rough around 1500 rpm, unstable
Here a list list of parts I have replace
6 new plugs NGK
6 new coil pack's aftermarket
replace fuel injectors seals both top and bottom
clean Throttle body housing and butter fly
Replace two vacuum leaks
replace new fuel filter
Now look like ECU is at fault,
can any one help
Update on New life for XJS,
Still having problems trying to Pass smog, Motor run's rough around 1500 rpm, unstable
Here a list list of parts I have replace
6 new plugs NGK
6 new coil pack's aftermarket
replace fuel injectors seals both top and bottom
clean Throttle body housing and butter fly
Replace two vacuum leaks
replace new fuel filter
Now look like ECU is at fault,
can any one help
#6
Jaguar_libra,
There's no reason to suspect the (expensive) ecu rather than a whole number of other items such as:
- lambda sensors
-MAF
- crank sensor
- coil wiring
-TPS
I would get someone to hook up a diagnostic and prove to you where the problem lies before I started thinking about ecu problems.
Good luck
Paul
There's no reason to suspect the (expensive) ecu rather than a whole number of other items such as:
- lambda sensors
-MAF
- crank sensor
- coil wiring
-TPS
I would get someone to hook up a diagnostic and prove to you where the problem lies before I started thinking about ecu problems.
Good luck
Paul
#7
Thanks
I was able to try a used ECU for my AJ 16, problem still their, lack of power under load,
Just check My GM type EGR valve, able to test solenoid 12 volts Dc pull just over 1.4 amps, valve Open. Also check the 5 volts reference and voltage reading back to ECU reading about 0.689 Vdc. \
I will be taken car to ACME auto repair hayward,ca
Looking for any good advice ???
I was able to try a used ECU for my AJ 16, problem still their, lack of power under load,
Just check My GM type EGR valve, able to test solenoid 12 volts Dc pull just over 1.4 amps, valve Open. Also check the 5 volts reference and voltage reading back to ECU reading about 0.689 Vdc. \
I will be taken car to ACME auto repair hayward,ca
Looking for any good advice ???
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#8
Be sure you have the spark plugs that is in your manual, they are inexpensive champion copper core. do not install expensive plugs they lead to misfire codes. My 95 4.0 had iridium plugs and gave me misfire codes on the drive home after purchase the car. Dealer ship found them on a pre-purchase inspection and told me to go back to factory plugs. The pre-purchase inspection took place after I purchased it, so maybe it was a post purchase inspection.
#9
#10
Really great to see your Jag passed smog. Did you take it to the Hayward mechanics you mentioned?
Mine needs to go for a smog test, but first I need an alternator to actually get it moving and out of storage. Its 100 miles away from Hayward, hence my question. Once I get it on the road I think it will need a full check over since it did not pass smog before.
Mine needs to go for a smog test, but first I need an alternator to actually get it moving and out of storage. Its 100 miles away from Hayward, hence my question. Once I get it on the road I think it will need a full check over since it did not pass smog before.
#11
#12
Seems both of your upstream oxygen sensors are bad.
Order new ones (you have a total of 4, they are all the same) from RockAuto. You can buy Bosch, or NTK. NTK will be the manufacturer of the Bosch ones, so whatever is less expensive. No need for the OEM Denso (NTK makes that one too).
While your in there, check you exhaust manifold. You'll have to remove the 5 bolts that attach that metal cover so you can see the manifolds. I think the cover will need to be removed to access the upstream oxygen sensors anyways...
Order new ones (you have a total of 4, they are all the same) from RockAuto. You can buy Bosch, or NTK. NTK will be the manufacturer of the Bosch ones, so whatever is less expensive. No need for the OEM Denso (NTK makes that one too).
While your in there, check you exhaust manifold. You'll have to remove the 5 bolts that attach that metal cover so you can see the manifolds. I think the cover will need to be removed to access the upstream oxygen sensors anyways...
#13
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