New owner - 1992 XJS V12
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If you remove the 3 bolts/nuts that secure the rack to the chassis, but leave the tie rods connected, you can lower the rack enough to get a better look at exactly where it is leaking. A hose leak can sometimes look like a tower seal leak.
BTW, if you have the OEM rubber bushings at those three points, you'll want to replace them with polyurethane. Improves steering response, and lasts significantly longer.
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If you remove the 3 bolts/nuts that secure the rack to the chassis, but leave the tie rods connected, you can lower the rack enough to get a better look at exactly where it is leaking. A hose leak can sometimes look like a tower seal leak.
BTW, if you have the OEM rubber bushings at those three points, you'll want to replace them with polyurethane. Improves steering response, and lasts significantly longer.
BTW, if you have the OEM rubber bushings at those three points, you'll want to replace them with polyurethane. Improves steering response, and lasts significantly longer.
This is exactly the advise I was hoping for - can you elaborate on the location of the 3 bolts? Are they easy to see?
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Once you're under the car, they'll be fairly obvious. There is an upper and lower bolt on the tower side, just inside of the bellow, and a single lower one on the other side. If you look at the drawing you posted, you see the where the bolts go through the rack.
There is some great info in this thread from when I changed out mine:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-crazy-152886/
Also see this:
jaghelp.com: Changing the power steering rack on a 1994 Jaguar XJS L6
Good luck
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General Update - 3/7/2016
Hi All,
Had some time this weekend with the Jag up on jacks and managed to get into a couple issues.
- The exhaust leak is now solved. The passenger's side exhaust manifold connection to the catalytic converter was loose - a couple of the bolts were almost all the way unscrewed. I tightened as much as possible without risking a broken stud and voila - exhaust sounds nice! Overall the exhaust system is in really good shape. We have a smoother idle now too!
- Power steering leak. This is an interesting one... I've been seeing a large power steering fluid puddle on the cardboard under the car since it came home. My assumption was that leak was coming from one place. So I dropped the rack (I only undid the 3 bolts to the frame leaving the hoses connected) and in the process noticed the bushes are totally shot, so, new bushes ordered! I was then able to tighten the high pressure hose at the rack connection - it was *very* loose. I know the previous owner had replaced this hose, but, it was barely screwed in! So I gave a it a few solid turns (tight, but not overly tight) and put everything back together.
I took the car for a drive and noticed some improvement in steering response, parked it overnight with a clean piece of cardboard under the car.
In checking the cardboard in the morning revealed only a tiny drip from underneath the high pressure hose area (used to be a large one), and, a very large stain from under what I believe to be either the reservoir or the pump area.
My suspicion is that either the previous owner didn't tighten the pump connection enough OR, the reservoir has had it...
Mike
Had some time this weekend with the Jag up on jacks and managed to get into a couple issues.
- The exhaust leak is now solved. The passenger's side exhaust manifold connection to the catalytic converter was loose - a couple of the bolts were almost all the way unscrewed. I tightened as much as possible without risking a broken stud and voila - exhaust sounds nice! Overall the exhaust system is in really good shape. We have a smoother idle now too!
- Power steering leak. This is an interesting one... I've been seeing a large power steering fluid puddle on the cardboard under the car since it came home. My assumption was that leak was coming from one place. So I dropped the rack (I only undid the 3 bolts to the frame leaving the hoses connected) and in the process noticed the bushes are totally shot, so, new bushes ordered! I was then able to tighten the high pressure hose at the rack connection - it was *very* loose. I know the previous owner had replaced this hose, but, it was barely screwed in! So I gave a it a few solid turns (tight, but not overly tight) and put everything back together.
I took the car for a drive and noticed some improvement in steering response, parked it overnight with a clean piece of cardboard under the car.
In checking the cardboard in the morning revealed only a tiny drip from underneath the high pressure hose area (used to be a large one), and, a very large stain from under what I believe to be either the reservoir or the pump area.
My suspicion is that either the previous owner didn't tighten the pump connection enough OR, the reservoir has had it...
Mike
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From: California
If you ordered OEM style steering rack bushings, I would strongly recommend you return them and replace them with polyurethane bushings.
Here is some background info from the Palm book:
STEERING RACK MOUNT BUSHING INSTALLATION: Don’t!!! The Jaguar steering rack mounts are crap, pure and simple. Do not install any such bushings, period.
STEERING RACK MOUNTS: Even if the original Jaguar steering rack mount bushings in your car are in fine shape, the steering response is awful. The stock mounts are very soft, which by itself is not necessarily bad. However, for some reason Jaguar chose to position the mounts parallel to the steering forces, so they are loaded axially (shear) rather than radially (compression). See Figure 18. There are bumpers (flat washers with a layer of rubber on one side) on either side of the mounts to limit the side-to-side motion of the rack. This design results in a nonlinear response: When you turn the wheel gently, the steering is somewhat unresponsive, since the mounts flex and absorb most of the steering motion. When you turn hard enough that the bumpers are contacted, the steering suddenly becomes much more responsive. The inconsistency of response makes it difficult to steer smoothly, especially when driving hard; the car seems indecisive about how much it wants to turn.
Besides providing lousy response when new, the OEM mounts are also known for a lack of durability, and of course when they come apart they come apart all at once. Ray Johnson says, “everything was fine and then the next thing I knew I was tacking a 4200# sailboat down the highway.”
On the XJ-S discussion list on the Internet, this author mentioned the possibility that this inconsistent response might actually be dangerous, especially with drivers that never drive hard and therefore are taken by surprise in the first panic situation they encounter. Of course, the first panic situation may rip the mounts apart -- but do you really care exactly why the mounts don’t work right in the first panic situation? Jim Downes responded: “Many (too many) moons ago when I was a student, I worked part-time at a Jag/Rolls dealership in Ireland. Occasionally, a customer's Jag would be towed in after a very bad crash. Most customers complained of an apparent loss of directional control during (as Kirby correctly identifies) a 'panic' situation. In almost every case, the bushings were worn and behaved exactly as described above. Absolutely all of the senior mechanics there felt that the bushings were dangerous after a few months of use.”
The solution is to replace the steering rack mount bushings with ones that are not merely stiffer but of a totally different design. This modification is so common that virtually every aftermarket business dealing in Jaguar stuff offers a kit.
STEERING RACK MOUNTS: Even if the original Jaguar steering rack mount bushings in your car are in fine shape, the steering response is awful. The stock mounts are very soft, which by itself is not necessarily bad. However, for some reason Jaguar chose to position the mounts parallel to the steering forces, so they are loaded axially (shear) rather than radially (compression). See Figure 18. There are bumpers (flat washers with a layer of rubber on one side) on either side of the mounts to limit the side-to-side motion of the rack. This design results in a nonlinear response: When you turn the wheel gently, the steering is somewhat unresponsive, since the mounts flex and absorb most of the steering motion. When you turn hard enough that the bumpers are contacted, the steering suddenly becomes much more responsive. The inconsistency of response makes it difficult to steer smoothly, especially when driving hard; the car seems indecisive about how much it wants to turn.
Besides providing lousy response when new, the OEM mounts are also known for a lack of durability, and of course when they come apart they come apart all at once. Ray Johnson says, “everything was fine and then the next thing I knew I was tacking a 4200# sailboat down the highway.”
On the XJ-S discussion list on the Internet, this author mentioned the possibility that this inconsistent response might actually be dangerous, especially with drivers that never drive hard and therefore are taken by surprise in the first panic situation they encounter. Of course, the first panic situation may rip the mounts apart -- but do you really care exactly why the mounts don’t work right in the first panic situation? Jim Downes responded: “Many (too many) moons ago when I was a student, I worked part-time at a Jag/Rolls dealership in Ireland. Occasionally, a customer's Jag would be towed in after a very bad crash. Most customers complained of an apparent loss of directional control during (as Kirby correctly identifies) a 'panic' situation. In almost every case, the bushings were worn and behaved exactly as described above. Absolutely all of the senior mechanics there felt that the bushings were dangerous after a few months of use.”
The solution is to replace the steering rack mount bushings with ones that are not merely stiffer but of a totally different design. This modification is so common that virtually every aftermarket business dealing in Jaguar stuff offers a kit.
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Yep, got items 14-6000 and 17-2502 from here:
Lower Steering Column Components & Mounts, XJ-6, XJ-12, XJ-S
Lower Steering Column Components & Mounts, XJ-6, XJ-12, XJ-S
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From: California
Yep, got items 14-6000 and 17-2502 from here:
Lower Steering Column Components & Mounts, XJ-6, XJ-12, XJ-S
Lower Steering Column Components & Mounts, XJ-6, XJ-12, XJ-S
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From: Roswell, GA
Mike,
Good work.
So you're happy with the calipers and rotors you chose? I'm on the verge of doing the same job on my car. Did you replace any brake hoses or any bushings in the radius arms while you had the IRS dropped?
Thanks.
Good work.
So you're happy with the calipers and rotors you chose? I'm on the verge of doing the same job on my car. Did you replace any brake hoses or any bushings in the radius arms while you had the IRS dropped?
Thanks.
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Yes, I replaced the rear trailing arm bushes, shocks, calipers, rotors and parking brake pads. The calipers came "pre-loaded" meaning they came with pads and brake lines. So far so good! The ride quality of the rear is very nice and the car stops very well. The new shocks made the biggest difference.
Unfortunately, having such a nice rear ride quality makes the front end feel that much worse. We still have the clunks up front, but, I found a bunch of deteriorated rubber which is likely the cause. I'll be digging in there as soon as parts arrive
Mike
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General Update - 3/15/2016
Hi All,
This weekend I was able to remove the old steering rack bushings and install the new poly bushes.
Some things to note during the removal. The bushes already in place were not all the same. The upper driver's side bush was not recessed on one end so I was able to push it out from either side. The lower bushes were recessed and I had to hammer them out towards the wheels (they would not "pull" out via the tool). With all the grime and dirt around the rack and the fact that I removed the non-recessed bush first, I broke my bush puller until I figured this recess issue out LOL.
Installing the new poly bushes was super easy. Some steel grease and they slid into place with no effort.
While under there I noticed that the sway bar rubber was missing under the driver's front mount to the chassis (this was likely the clunking noise) so I replaced the rubber.
I took a drive and the steering improvement is significant! The car tracks straight, is very responsive, and no noises over bumps. I will need to replace a few more pieces of rubber around the suspension, and, potentially the outer ball joints too, but, the steering now feels tight and fun
Mike
This weekend I was able to remove the old steering rack bushings and install the new poly bushes.
Some things to note during the removal. The bushes already in place were not all the same. The upper driver's side bush was not recessed on one end so I was able to push it out from either side. The lower bushes were recessed and I had to hammer them out towards the wheels (they would not "pull" out via the tool). With all the grime and dirt around the rack and the fact that I removed the non-recessed bush first, I broke my bush puller until I figured this recess issue out LOL.
Installing the new poly bushes was super easy. Some steel grease and they slid into place with no effort.
While under there I noticed that the sway bar rubber was missing under the driver's front mount to the chassis (this was likely the clunking noise) so I replaced the rubber.
I took a drive and the steering improvement is significant! The car tracks straight, is very responsive, and no noises over bumps. I will need to replace a few more pieces of rubber around the suspension, and, potentially the outer ball joints too, but, the steering now feels tight and fun
Mike
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Next issue to address...
So, I took the car for a fairly long drive after I fixed some of the steering issues and, we still have a slightly lumpy, but solid, 625 rpm idle. The idle issue seems to be only rpm related. Above 800 rpm, we're smooth. No warnings or check engine lights though.... My goal this week is to try to get rid of the lumpiness at 625 idle. So I have some potential items to investigate and I was hoping for some guidance on the items that have the highest probability of success:
-Still have false air somewhere-
-Injector seals?
-Intake gaskets?
-Exhaust leaks/faulty O2 sesnor-
-Seal exhaust at joints
-New O2 sensors (expensive and may not solve the problem)
-Spark plugs & wires/Electrical Issue-
-Clean engine ground points
-Replace wires & plugs (labor intensive and may not solve the problem)
-Check distributor
-Check injector harness
-Fuel system
-Dirty/clogged injectors
Mike
So, I took the car for a fairly long drive after I fixed some of the steering issues and, we still have a slightly lumpy, but solid, 625 rpm idle. The idle issue seems to be only rpm related. Above 800 rpm, we're smooth. No warnings or check engine lights though.... My goal this week is to try to get rid of the lumpiness at 625 idle. So I have some potential items to investigate and I was hoping for some guidance on the items that have the highest probability of success:
-Still have false air somewhere-
-Injector seals?
-Intake gaskets?
-Exhaust leaks/faulty O2 sesnor-
-Seal exhaust at joints
-New O2 sensors (expensive and may not solve the problem)
-Spark plugs & wires/Electrical Issue-
-Clean engine ground points
-Replace wires & plugs (labor intensive and may not solve the problem)
-Check distributor
-Check injector harness
-Fuel system
-Dirty/clogged injectors
Mike
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Hi Guys,
Been a while since my last post and I have been enjoying the car. I still have a pretty solid power steering leak coming from the tower of the rack. It went away for a while and then one day, all the fluid let loose. I thought it was from the lines, but, its the top of the rack LOL.
Anyhow, I have to remove and refurb the rack. This is a LHD 1992 and I'm having trouble reaching the steering knuckle pinch bolt... what do I do here? What should I remove to get access? Any links to threads with write-ups would be great!
Thanks,
Mike
Edit : re-read this thread and found this link : https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-crazy-152886/
Thanks Guys!
Been a while since my last post and I have been enjoying the car. I still have a pretty solid power steering leak coming from the tower of the rack. It went away for a while and then one day, all the fluid let loose. I thought it was from the lines, but, its the top of the rack LOL.
Anyhow, I have to remove and refurb the rack. This is a LHD 1992 and I'm having trouble reaching the steering knuckle pinch bolt... what do I do here? What should I remove to get access? Any links to threads with write-ups would be great!
Thanks,
Mike
Edit : re-read this thread and found this link : https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-crazy-152886/
Thanks Guys!
Last edited by msteiner805; May 3, 2016 at 03:12 PM.
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From: Pacific Northwest USA
Looking thru the LH wheel well you should find a small area of opportunity, so to speak, wheel the pinch bolt is visible between the body and the subframe. Use a 12-15" extension to reach the bolt. You'll need to reach around and hold a wrench on the backing nut but it's all quite doable if you get yourself twisted into the appropriately shaped pretzel
Cheers
DD
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From: California
Hi Guys,
Been a while since my last post and I have been enjoying the car. I still have a pretty solid power steering leak coming from the tower of the rack. It went away for a while and then one day, all the fluid let loose. I thought it was from the lines, but, its the top of the rack LOL.
Anyhow, I have to remove and refurb the rack. This is a LHD 1992 and I'm having trouble reaching the steering knuckle pinch bolt... what do I do here? What should I remove to get access? Any links to threads with write-ups would be great!
Thanks,
Mike
Edit : re-read this thread and found this link : https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-crazy-152886/
Thanks Guys!
Been a while since my last post and I have been enjoying the car. I still have a pretty solid power steering leak coming from the tower of the rack. It went away for a while and then one day, all the fluid let loose. I thought it was from the lines, but, its the top of the rack LOL.
Anyhow, I have to remove and refurb the rack. This is a LHD 1992 and I'm having trouble reaching the steering knuckle pinch bolt... what do I do here? What should I remove to get access? Any links to threads with write-ups would be great!
Thanks,
Mike
Edit : re-read this thread and found this link : https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-crazy-152886/
Thanks Guys!
It is more likely you have hose leak. The heat shielding around the high pressure hose channels fluid down to the tower and makes it appear the leak is coming from there.
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I was really hoping that was was the case but the hoses are fairly new and I can see fluid seeping out from under the "dust cap". I also inspected the hose connections they all look good :/...
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Hi All,
Got the steering rack out this weekend and when I took off the boots, quite a bit of fluid leaked out. Now I'm looking at options at refurb and I'm a bit lost.
The vin on my car is the following : SAJNW4842NC180821
What racks are compatible? I'm not seeing any clear info from the websites I'm browsing... is this unit compatible : A1 Cardone 26-1916?
Does anyone know what a rebuilder may charge and where I should get the work done?
Thanks,
Mike
Got the steering rack out this weekend and when I took off the boots, quite a bit of fluid leaked out. Now I'm looking at options at refurb and I'm a bit lost.
The vin on my car is the following : SAJNW4842NC180821
What racks are compatible? I'm not seeing any clear info from the websites I'm browsing... is this unit compatible : A1 Cardone 26-1916?
Does anyone know what a rebuilder may charge and where I should get the work done?
Thanks,
Mike
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 757
Likes: 315
From: Denver, CO
Hi All,
Got the steering rack out this weekend and when I took off the boots, quite a bit of fluid leaked out. Now I'm looking at options at refurb and I'm a bit lost.
The vin on my car is the following : SAJNW4842NC180821
What racks are compatible? I'm not seeing any clear info from the websites I'm browsing... is this unit compatible : A1 Cardone 26-1916?
Does anyone know what a rebuilder may charge and where I should get the work done?
Thanks,
Mike
Got the steering rack out this weekend and when I took off the boots, quite a bit of fluid leaked out. Now I'm looking at options at refurb and I'm a bit lost.
The vin on my car is the following : SAJNW4842NC180821
What racks are compatible? I'm not seeing any clear info from the websites I'm browsing... is this unit compatible : A1 Cardone 26-1916?
Does anyone know what a rebuilder may charge and where I should get the work done?
Thanks,
Mike
The 26-1916 is for the 1987-1991 XJS.
For your '92 you want the 26-1919.
Mark
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Posts: 130
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From: Garland, Texas
Rear Axle Removal NOT Necessary
Great choice of car. Providing you go through all that needs doing methodically and can do the work yourself, the parts are not idiotically expensive. The rear axle needs to come out to do the brakes, and while you are there do the lot: callipers, discs, radius arm bushes, change diff oil. If you search on here for XJS handbrake modification, there is a downloadable pdf that explains in detail how the HB works and how to greatly improve it if you are so inclined.
The Great Palm's book explains in detail how to set the throttle plates properly (basically use the throttle stop screws and a feeler gauge). Once the throttles plates are set, if the high idle remains, you have a stuck AAV, or the tickover screw on the AAV too far open, or a leak or all of the above.
The most probably cause of the vague steering is also dealt with in detail in the Palm book - being the rack bushes.
Depending upon your own requirements and inclinations, there is a great deal to be said for going through the whole car on the assumption that it has been poorly maintained, fixing all the known things that arise with the car under those circumstances, and after a bit of work you will have a reliable car. My list would include:
Fuel system complete clean
Injector flexible pipes changed, injector loom changed
On your car the Marelli dizzy cap and arm need careful inspection, changing if needed, and the amplifier looms also changing if they are cooked.
Thermostats change
100% coolant pipe change
Remove rad and clean out the fins and the crud in the oil rad and a/c condenser fins
Check front discs and calipers (also very carefully test the Antilock brake system which can go haywire, a search here will show how Orangeblossom rebuilt his actuator after a couple of scares)
Check balljoints and front suspension rubber bushes carefully
Clean up all engine bay earths very carefully, particularly the one from the engine via the subframe to the LHS lower chassis rail.
Test aircon carefully for full function, the system on your car is good, but various water valves and other bits can jam, vac pipes get leaky etc.
Seems a lot, but all doable with patience and dedication! And you will end up with a wonderful Grand Tourer.
Greg
The Great Palm's book explains in detail how to set the throttle plates properly (basically use the throttle stop screws and a feeler gauge). Once the throttles plates are set, if the high idle remains, you have a stuck AAV, or the tickover screw on the AAV too far open, or a leak or all of the above.
The most probably cause of the vague steering is also dealt with in detail in the Palm book - being the rack bushes.
Depending upon your own requirements and inclinations, there is a great deal to be said for going through the whole car on the assumption that it has been poorly maintained, fixing all the known things that arise with the car under those circumstances, and after a bit of work you will have a reliable car. My list would include:
Fuel system complete clean
Injector flexible pipes changed, injector loom changed
On your car the Marelli dizzy cap and arm need careful inspection, changing if needed, and the amplifier looms also changing if they are cooked.
Thermostats change
100% coolant pipe change
Remove rad and clean out the fins and the crud in the oil rad and a/c condenser fins
Check front discs and calipers (also very carefully test the Antilock brake system which can go haywire, a search here will show how Orangeblossom rebuilt his actuator after a couple of scares)
Check balljoints and front suspension rubber bushes carefully
Clean up all engine bay earths very carefully, particularly the one from the engine via the subframe to the LHS lower chassis rail.
Test aircon carefully for full function, the system on your car is good, but various water valves and other bits can jam, vac pipes get leaky etc.
Seems a lot, but all doable with patience and dedication! And you will end up with a wonderful Grand Tourer.
Greg
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From: France
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post2237786
In order to avoid disappointment by owners who might think that point you make is generally true, rather than true in your case, the inboard braked handbrake on the XJS is not at all robust. This is an acknowledged matter that even main dealers of the era warned new owners about. I have had two separate sets of handbrake pads ripped out during roadworthyness tests, for example.
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Posts: 130
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From: Garland, Texas
try reading post number 1367 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post2237786
In order to avoid disappointment by owners who might think that point you make is generally true, rather than true in your case, the inboard braked handbrake on the XJS is not at all robust. This is an acknowledged matter that even main dealers of the era warned new owners about. I have had two separate sets of handbrake pads ripped out during roadworthyness tests, for example.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post2237786
In order to avoid disappointment by owners who might think that point you make is generally true, rather than true in your case, the inboard braked handbrake on the XJS is not at all robust. This is an acknowledged matter that even main dealers of the era warned new owners about. I have had two separate sets of handbrake pads ripped out during roadworthyness tests, for example.
I have to admit that happened to me once back when I owned Supercat, my '95 4.0 coupe. I went to pick it up at a shop or tire place (can't remember which) and, apparently out of either habit or an abundance of caution, the tech engaged the parking brake before handing the car off to me (I almost never use my parking brake, btw). I drove her for almost a mile before I finally realized something didn't seem "the norm" .. 
Luckily, I was only driving down a side street at the time at low speed, so apparently it did not do any permanent or serious damage to the system (which may have been a bit "loose" to begin with, anyway). That scenario was only aided by the fact that with our systems it can be difficult to notice that the handbrake is engaged b/c (1) unlike with most cars, there is no visible difference in position of the application lever when applied vs. not applied and (2) those darn dim warning lights that you can hardly see in daylight .. 
Now I do agree that latter is a "defect" that Jag should have remedied earlier on in the course of the XJS. btw, I enjoyed all the pics in that thread, so thanks for sharing. I can now see clearly what our 5.3 engines are supposed to look like from all sides as well as the front and rear brake assembly and suspension areas! 