I'm slowly collecting the parts needed to revert my ABS equipped car back to normal vacuum operated brakes when the need arises. I have the pedal assembly including a firewall mount as well as a used brake booster and a used master cylinder. I bought a new MC that I thought came with the plastic elbows, but they are not included. All the MC rebuild kits that come up with plastic elbows are NLA.

What are you guys using for the elbows? I have to think there is some solution out there that will work. Any thoughts?

 

I have them new as part of rebuild kits. 30$. You can also skip that iron MC and retro-fit an aluminum one from a Mitsibishi eclipse.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...lution-204375/

 

Thank you @icsamerica . This opens up new possibilities. Thank you for the link.

 

You can keep the ABS too if you want it for less than 200$ all in. You "simply" need to plumb the ABS pump after the MC and wire up the computer from a C4 Corvette. The Wheel speed sensors are the same basic design, I detail it here. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-works-84536/

You can get the Mitsubishi MC to feel EXACLY like the Jaguar MC if you swap the internal springs.

 

I have a few of these "rebuild" kits at hand if any one want to buy. 30$ + shipping.

 

Closing the loop on this one for now. I picked up two master cylinders for a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse. On the left with the vertical metal feed pipes is from an ABS car and on the right with the plastic elbows is from a FWD car w/o ABS. I am guessing I will use the plastic elbowed master cylinder but the metal feed pipes looked interesting to me and was less than $20 so I took a gamble.

The castings are different between the two. I don't have any short- or mid-term plans to use them, so I will update on which one works best.

 

Are both this 15/16"?

 

I did not disassemble but measured at the pushrod end. The ID of the one for ABS is right about 1" and the one for non-ABS cars measures about 1.1"

 

The size is usually stamped at the bottom of the cylinder

 

The plastic elbows, w/o ABS is stamped 15/16 on the bottom:


The metal piped, w/ ABS one is only stamped AB-50:

 

Thorsen,
Thanks so much, this is what I needed, I will go with the Non-ABS 15/16".
The ABS is 1", you can see the number 1 on the left of the second picture...

 

Thorsen,
Do you by any chance have the part number for the non-abs 15/16" with plastic fittings? I just don't want to make a mistake...

 

Boy do I feel dumb

CARDONE132702 is the non-ABS one. Rock Auto has it for about $50.

I'm curious why you like the 15/16" over the 1". Does the extra 1/16" make that much difference in pedal feel?

 

For what I can tell tje original XJS master is 15/16"... If you go with the 1" the travel on your foot will be less, some people like this, but I would like to keep the original feel...

 

Cool great info, Thanks Guys.

Jack

 

The Mitsubishi reservoir and cap seem to also be NLA. I found one online at a Mitsubishi dealer and ordered only for the order to be cancelled because it's NLA. I also called my dealer and was told the same thing.

I could buy a universal aluminum remote reservoir for about $100 but decided I didn't want to do that, so I went with the mid 1970's BMW 2002 reservoir (part #AT-34321112399) and cap with switch (part # 477611351B) instead. This was about $30.

Here's the reservoir with an outlet for a clutch master cylinder. All outlets are plugged so you just remove the one(s) you need.

 

When I did this long ago my recollection was most bottom exit reservoirs will have the fluid output lower than the M/C. Not ideal for a gravity fed system. That said its not much of a problem so long as the reservoir remains full and you don't mind a loop in the lines but I wasn't taking any chances and wanted a better solution with more directly routed fluid lines. . I also ran the 1 inch bore M/C for awhile but went back to 15/16ths which has more pedal travel but better resolution and control. I've been running the Mitsu M/C for years on the street and track and just works. If you want the feel exactly the same you will need to use the 15/16 bore MC and swap the internal spring from the Jag MC to the Mitsubishi MC. My recollection is the spring needs to be trimmed to remove 1 coil to fit correctly.

There is reservoir a 04 - 05 Mitsubishi Endeavor with a horizontal fluid pipe exit that works. They are still available, I stopped looking after I found 3 for sale on eBay just now. I might order up a spare.


In the end I think I ended up using a setup from a 94 Galante which are low in price. 20$ or so.

 

Isca are you running a brake booster? if so can I ask what it's from, or is it the Jag booster? Both my 89's have ABS, and no booster. So I'am curious if I'll need one or not, when converting to non ABS? It was so many years ago I had the pleasure of driving an XJS that I have no idea what the pedal felt like etc.

Jack

 

This is something I have been looking to ask, I understand the booster is a "comfort" thing, I drove many cars without booster and they stopped with no issues, yes, with more effort... So what about getting rid of the booster and changing the MC cylinder with one of a different diameter? What do you guys think? I know this is going out of the usual, but...

 

Good evening, I happen to come across your comment that you have some of these MC elbow kits. I'm a new member. My son and I are creating a custom restomod on his 86 XJS. My MC is rebuilt but like always the leak at those old elbows. Would by any chance have any more? I certainly buy one now. please call anytime at 905-580-6695.
Thank you
Pete