Another VERRY important point I forgot to make explicitly.
The bearbox surface that the gasket goes against MUST be 100% dry and oil free. Use brake cleaner aerosols spray or carburettor cleaner aerosol spray to clean it and dry it very carefully. It is a good idea to let the open gearbox drain for a couple of days before cleaning it, and have the sump assembly all ready to fit once it is cleaned and dried.
Gasgacinch on BOTH the gasket AND the gearbox.

 

Hello Greg.

I know that it is necessary to clean perfectly the Pan and the gear box surface before Gasgancinch.
I will respect your procedure perfectly.
I have everything I need in my garage to do the perfect work, and I’m sick and tired of dismantling that Pan four times already............

I’m still going to wait for the temperature to increase a bit to get the job done.
And sure I will pass with big palisir in the spring to Digoin with the E type.

Regards.

Philikat.

 

Great plan, I look forward to it!

 

Good evening Greg.

I get the pan gasket today.
I will do the job this week end, not inthe garage it is to cold, but in my house.....my wife will appreciate that a lot for sure.................................
Take a look on this photo.
it’s the right model from FELD PRO as you advised me.



Thanks.
Philikat.

 

Good luck.

 

Hello Greg.

I did the work yesterday enjoying a beautiful day of sunshine.
Resting all night, but I’ll wait till tomorrow to see the result.
My wife said nothing..........
I wait new screws to put it back in place.
Some photos....the same as yours finaly.





Kind regards.
Phil.

 

Looks great! Very sensible to let it set good and hard.

 

Hello Greg.
I took some time to answer you because the last assembly didn’t work, I still had oil leaks after 15 days despite all the care taken to the work.
I checked the pan with a comparator and it’s completely deformed by the tightening of the screws.
As I had 2 pans I decided to use one and strengthen the edges with 4 mm flat iron that I formed all around the case.
Once in place I welded the flat iron in the rim of the pan blocked onto a mechanic’s marble.
Photo 1 an 2




This work finished I had rectified the surface by a milling machine.
Yet i have only a little section with only 0.2 mm under the surface and everything is totally rigid.
I do the assembly this weekend without gasket by putting only LOCTITE SI 5980 Quick Gasket between the pan and the gearbox.
24 hours of drying and filling.
I cross my fingers, it will be 4 times that I empty the gear box and disassemble the pan ...........



It is nothing to compare with the original pan.
Regards

 

Have you checked your breather pipe and crank vent valve are all clear

 

Hi.
Thanks for your advice.
Yes I did all possible control around the gear box, and of course the breather to be sure to get no pressure into the gear box.
I made also a drawing with all dimensions to understand how the oil level works when the gear box is cold, hot and turned off.
I'm a perfectionist and I real can't support any oil drops under my cars.
I need to admit than was only in two weeks few little drops on the floor .........but to much for me.
When I was looking back some photos, I took during this major overhaul, I remember than was no gasket on this pan!
Yet I go to install my montage.

Regards.

 

I think that is an excellent design and idea, with a very good chance of meeting your high standards. Keep us informed about progress.

Out of interest, and knowing that you tried my idea using The Right Stuff and glass etc, how much oil actually dripped out every day?

 

Hello Greg.
Your idea to use a glass is really good.I found that my leaks were reduced after using your method, but not completely!

Like I said.... 2 drops per day....I know it is almost nothing but.....I can't see that under my car......and also because it is uncertain how that will progress with the time.
Just 2 hours ago I dismantled the pan from the gear box, all washers under the screw heads, were tapered as they are tucked in the holes of the pan!
Now with my 4 mm flat iron, that will be impossible.
It was quite difficult to put the pan away, this Gasgacinch is a real fantastic Gasket (Glue), It stucks so hard.
After Lunch back to garage and implementation of the modified pan.
I cross my fingers.
Verdict tomorrow afternoon.

Regards

 

I used the right stuff with no other gasket and it hasn't oil leaked from the pan since. Works great.

Pan bolts are only 10 ft/lbs

 

Good evening everybody.





No leaks finally, I'm so happy I can't believe......... I will wait tomorrow to check again under the car,.
The mechanical assembly I made, leaves little chance to chance and it should be definitely waterproof.
To be honest, I wanted to do this mechanical assembly as soon I discovered these leaks, but the amount of work I had imagined to realize these reinforcements discouraged me and I opted for other solutions to make this adaptation anyway!
Now I will use my car and enjoy every moments behind the wheel.
Thanks for your advice and your support.
Philippe.

 

Philippe
Many congratulations. I think that mod is absolutely the best. I look forward to seeing it!

 

Greg,
You and I have talked on this subject before I just want to make sure I have the process correct. I purchased two tubes of The Right Stuff gasket maker 90 minute black 25228 and the red Right Stuff 34628. Should I use the black 25228 gasket maker? Will I need one or two 3 oz tubes for the upper and lower oil pan? Place a 4 mm bead of The black Right Stuff on the lower tin oil pan and around the holes then install the good metal /rubber gasket from Brit Parts place a glass plate installed on top for 24 hours. Then bolted the lower oil pan to the upper sandwich plate without any Gasgacinch on the top of the gasket or upper plate?

Currently I have received the only upper sandwich oil pan gasket that I can find and SNG sells, the thin paper gasket. Brit Barts, Beck Arnly and Felt Pro said they do not have the upper sandwich plate gasket. Does anyone know where I can purchase a higher quality gasket? If I have to use the paper gasket would I coat the top of the sandwich plate and both sides of the paper gasket with Gasgacinch and tighten up the bolts or do I need to wait some time

Upper Sandwich Plate
before fully tightening the bolts?

 

If you can't find a gasket, I would use something like Loctite flange sealer, either #515 or 518.

 

In red below
You and I have talked on this subject before I just want to make sure I have the process correct. I purchased two tubes of The Right Stuff gasket maker 90 minute black 25228 and the red Right Stuff 34628. Should I use the black 25228 gasket maker? Yes, the black one.

Will I need one or two 3 oz tubes for the upper and lower oil pan?
One is enough for the lower sump pan: Place a 4 mm bead of The black Right Stuff on the lower tin oil pan and around the holes then install the good metal /rubber gasket from Brit Parts place a glass plate installed on top for 24 hours. Make sure you have a couple of rods (eg drill bits using the chuck end) to ensure the holes are lined up exactly.

I would NOT do this: Then bolted the lower oil pan to the upper sandwich plate without any Gasgacinch on the top of the gasket or upper plate? Instead I would get the good gasket for the sandwich plate (try Jack Weston at David Manners) and fix the sandwich plate to the block FIRST, before adding the sump pan. No need for TRS on the good sandwich plate gasket. Just dress each side with Gascacinch or, my new favourite Permatex Aviation Form a Gasket No. 3.

Currently I have received the only upper sandwich oil pan gasket that I can find and SNG sells, the thin paper gasket. Brit Barts, Beck Arnly and Felt Pro said they do not have the upper sandwich plate gasket. Does anyone know where I can purchase a higher quality gasket? Try David Manners, but you may have to buy an entire engine lower gasket set. I would NOT use the paper gasket anywhere!

If you absolutely cannot get a proper gasket, then I would VERY carefully clean the sandwhich plate to engine block surfaces, and then slighty rough them up with some fine sandpaper. Then smear TRS on BOTH metal surfaces, not too thick, a couple of mm max) but ensure every part of the two surfaces has a covering, and bolt them up just a touch more than finger tight, then do the bolts up fully but not stupidly tight, the next day.

Remember to coat the shafts of the long bolts at the rear end of the plate and pan (where ever you find them) with Gasca or Permatex Av No. 3 otherwise oil can run down the bolts and leak out.