Hi all,

So Im a few days out from getting this cat road ready and ill gave to change the breaks..Few quetions:

1. Is this kit apropriate? over priced ? etv? Ill be using the car for crusing and road trips in the summer, weather is rainy sometimes. I dont see myself racing it...but I wouldn't put it past me either. https://www.crossdrilledrotors.ca/checkout/cart/https://www.crossdrilledrotors.ca/jaguar/xjs/1986/5-3l-v12/1-click-brake-kit-front-and-rear-performance-silver-cross-drilled-and-slotted-brake-rotors-and-performance-carbon-brake-pads-incl-hardware-kit-and-4-brake-calipers.html

2. are there any consideration for brreak replacements if I'd like to restore the car for show?

3.Best break fluid and what to look for?

4.Is it worth trying to salvage or rebuild the callipers?

It's a 1986 coupe in Canada

Thanks!

 

OK, my take, and yes, I am OLD.

Not sure where you are, might pay to add that little snippet to your Sig.

NO IDEA what year the beast is, oops.

In ALL my Jags, I have only ever used standard OE spec rotors, whatever was priced to suit my wallet at the time.

Brake Pads, TRW for too many years.

Brake fluid, Dot 4, and changed annually since 1968.

I drove HARD at times, why have a V12 and drive sedately, really. Slowed done now of course.

I have never had a brake issue, as in fade, pulling, noise, etc etc.

Calipers, only a few needed seal kits in all the cars, maybe our climate in kinder to this item.

Master cylinder, never mes with that sucker, NEW on day 1 of ownership, then teh annual fluid change takes care of it.

Rebuilt calipers are out there, and many links are on the Forum from various members.

Brake hoses, you either have 3, or 4, depending on what I asked earlier, NEW please, and again in 15 years time.

Good luck.

 

The link doesn't go to any product, just an empty cart.

Brake fluid: Use a quality Dot 4, changed every 2 years
Rotors: From an Engineering point of view, avoid the slotted and drilled rotors. All those slots and holes are simply stress raisers and cracks always start there. They also make the rotor have less surface area for braking contact and less thermal mass to absorb and dissipate heat. I use whatever is cheap from Rock Auto generally. That being said, the OEM Jaguar rotors are a very high quality and do last quite a bit longer than aftermarket rotors.

I'd also use standard semi metallic pads, rather than ceramic for most street driving. The ceramic are low dust, but I found that when cold they have noticeably inferior cold and low speed performance. That is where the vast majority of street driving is, and where it's important. If you are planning track days then I'd change to track pads on the day, but don't use them for everyday driving.

If you're in a JCNA show, if calipers can be seen through the wheel, then they are judged for cleanliness.

If the calipers are working fine, then leave them alone. They are excellent calipers and no need for replacement. Depending on what year your car is, changing rear rotors is quite a bit more work than most cars if they are inboard.

 

IMO, XJSs have extremely good brakes, particularly at the front. I have never found a reason to deviate from the standard solid discs.

Paul

 

Thanks for all of this!

I keep forgetting the details you mentioned: I'm Canada... Montreal summer and Vancouver rainy winters.

It's an 1986 coupe

 

Thanks for all of this!

I keep forgetting the details you mentioned: I'm Canada... Montreal summer and Vancouver rainy winters.

It's an 1986 coupe

 

Well! I was eyeing this: https://www.crossdrilledrotors.ca/ja...-calipers.html

It's a 1986 coupe in Canada and I found it in Ontario.

The roarers do need to be replaced if I'm not mistaken, are there any videos on what to expect with the rears?

I think the calipers are OK. I wOs tols new roaters and pads front and back.

 

OK, Pre ABS, sweet.

Rear rotors are a PAIN, and many threads here on that.
I have always dropped the cradle and done what needs to be done after 30 years of neglect.

1986, COULD be a DANA diff, not sure???:
got a drain plug = Salisbury,
NO drain plug = Dana.

The rotors WERE different, but many years ago the manufacturers made them either/or. Just be aware of that little item.

The Fronts a simple,

BUT

There are, or could be, shims on the lower steering arm bolt, and that bolt comes out to get the caliper off.

Read the attachment, it goes through all the scenarios possible.

 

I’ve been avoiding this thread because I didn’t know what a break kit was….figured it was something unique to the v12s.

This thread has got me thinking about replacing my 25+ year old brake lines on the 96. I’ve replaced fluids and the hardware, but never the hoses.

Everyone here is correct. The Jaguar brake system is excellent. Really no need to upgrade anything and certainly no need to put in the slotted rotors. Zimmerman or Pagid rotors may have been the OEM and Brembo would work too. Basically anything from RockAuto that fits your budget.

I believe the v12 guys can get Akebono pads, which come very highly rated. My car can only get them on the rears. People in the last have had good experiences with the Raybestos pads too.

 

I wish Akebonos were available for the fronts of v12s. I keep hoping. I have them on my other cars. Well worth the money .

 

EBC red pads and name brand slotted rotors is the best setup for a road car. The difference with EBC pads is very noticeable. The downside is they cost more and wear out quickly.. They are sacrificial since they are gentle on the rotors so the rotors wont require replacement in the future so long as you properly torque the wheels so the wont warp. Any fresh DOT 3 or 4 fluid will suffice for street use.

Drilled is not necessary for a road car. Slotted allows vapors and dust generated during hard braking to be swept away. And that helps the pad stay in contact with a cleaner rotor. Some pads off gas off more than others.

The stock XJS brakes work good enough for road use and will allow about two 100 to zero stops before getting heat soaked and going to mush.

 

this attachment is super helpful! Thank you for sharing!

 

Thanks for this.

I assumedassuiukd fund OEM rotors and pads but general consensus is to go that route

 

thank you I'll check out those brands!!

 

Is that 100 miles per hour, or kilometers per hour?