Okay, my power steering hose was worn down by some metal brushlike part right in the middle of the hose. What is the best way to replace this hose? I'm talking about access so that I can remove it. Suprised that metal brushlike part made a hole in the hose since it's a tough high pressure hose.

 

That brushlike thing is the PS fluid cooler:

The high pressure hose (7) goes straight to the rack. The first return hose (3) goes to the cooler (11) and from that the second return hose (2) goes to the pump.to the pump.
First determine which one is leaking (sounds like 3). You can use a normal hose joiner and jubilee clips to repair it, as it is low pressure. Yoy can even ditch the cooler unless you make a habit of roaring down Stelvio-like twisty mountain passes.

 

Agreed.

The Hi Pressure hoses are tough steel braided hydraulic hoses. The return is standard spec Lo pressure hose.

I ditched all the coolers years ago, and simply swapped to Full Synthetic Trans Fluid, and never looked back.

 

Okay, I am not a mechanic; but I am mechanically inclined. How do you remove the return hose and is there anything else I need to remove so I can access the hose?

 

Isn't it basically the same thing? I use trans fluid and some lucas PS stop leak to thicken it up havn't had any leaks/issues in over a year.

 

Not sure if they are the same things Vancouver. My hole is right in the center of the high pressure hose(it wasn't the return hose). The power steering cooler rubbed a hole right through it. I'm going to remove the left tire and left side air filter for better access. I was able to see the leak with a strong flashlight when under the car and having someone move the steering wheel back and forth.

 

Sorry I was more commenting on Grant's comment but if you need a scan of the shop manual for removal/installation I can probably scan it from my book unless someone has a writeup already?

 

I understand from your later post that it is definitely the high pressure hose?
Assuming so, it is a question of whether you can get to the fittings each end. The pump end you undo from above, remove the air box (2 clips) and maybe you will have to remove the LHS top hose for access. But that end is pretty easy. On the rack end, it is a matter of whether you can get a tool on the nut on the hose end or not. If not you may have to remove the three bolts that hold the rack to the subframe so as to get at the rack a bit more easily. These bolts, two one end of the rack, one the other:

 

Probably, but since Synthetic ATF is easier to find down here, it goes in anything in my fleet, except the damn S Types, they be special stuff.

Not a fan of those additives, but others I circle with use and swear by them, so be it.

The Synthetic ATF does "seem" to handle the heat a tad better than the Mineral stuff, BUT, since I change ALL the fluids annually, they never get to a use by point.

The Saginaw pump seems quieter with the Syn fluid, but that is NOT scientific.

 

Hello Greg and Grant...

Is there any chance you have info on part number "10" in the power steering pump diagram above?

Seem like I'm back at the beast after a loooong winter and mending a broken heart, lol. It would be funny if it didn't hurt so dang much, lol

Of course, guidance is MUCH appreciated.

ps - Grant - I'll probably be bugging ya soon

 

Part 10 is an O ring. The threaded part it goes round (on the end of 7 the high pressure hose) screws into the pump. If the O ring is not there or is perished/cracked/squashed etc. the fluid will leak very fast through that screwed connecting fitting.
Just go to an hydraulic or aircon place with the old one, and they will give you one, I am sure.
Greg

 

Hi... Thank you! Is it steel or rubber - plastic?

 

Rubber. All hydraulic and aircon systems are sealed with such items.