I'm sure most XJS owners have had rust issues some ware on their car. What recommendations do people have to prevent parts from rusting? The main parts that I have that got rusty and made it difficult to disassemble, were the rear wheel bolted to the wheel bolting plates. The plates are very rusty and the fact of the hub that bolts to the rear wheels and dust covers. Removing one splined shaft from the wheel hub took a 26 ton press, heat, a lot of penetrating spray and a couple of weeks. Rear differential parts that are bolted together. Can the wheel outer parts be painted with a clear coat of paint and something between the wheel and bolt on plate to reduce the rust and pitting of the wheel plate? I have the original shields for the rear wheels. The shields are not rusted much, but they are very bent up with a new coat of black paint. I tried to flatten the disks and open the vent on the shield. Should the plates be reinstalled and will keep the hubs cool and cleaner? Are there other part that are recommended to have an anti rust protection and what product?

 

Your only hope is frequent and regular attention, liberal use of the appropriate anti sieze (being careful to adjust torque accordingly), keep the car out of the salt season, make sure your grounds are in good order and I don't mean the grounds of your house, never park on grass or 'soft' surfaces, don't park in unventilated garages, don't use a pressure washer on the car - it is tempting but it pushes water into places you don't want it especially underneath. I would also spray static components such as fuel lines and other items prone to condensation with a good underbody wax (not the same thing as underseal) - Dynax S50 is my go to (Bilt Hamber).

Pay regular attention to chips / scratches and if you see blisters in the paint get it dealt with because like icebergs that blister hides 10 times more destruction, try to inspec the places you don't generally see, I won't overload this thread with the hidden nightmare that started my 5 year journey. As an example there was one blister on my left buttress - this was what was hiding ...





The last picture is the underside of my back window, hiding above the fuel tank, the rear buttresses were rusting badly - from the inside out. Jaguar simply didn't paint what couldn't be seen, these cars weren't treated to immersion or other modern techniques - if the robots couldn't see it there was no paint worthy of note, but there was condensation, I was rebuilding my fuel system when I found this - fuel tank still hasn't gone back in.

There is a product from Bilt Hamber that is supposed to use migratory and contact corrosion inhibitors - but it is obscenely expensive and how effective it is I couldn't say.

 

LPS 3 is a good product. It's sort of a waxy spray lube that sticks on. ACF-50 is also good. I would choose either one. We use it on the helicopters so that's good enough for cars I reckon.

 

I'm going to check that stuff out for sure - interestingly the tech sheet says no wax / silicon etc on the ACF-50 - stops corrosion but only for a year so this would be a regular task - looks thin so spraying it into hidden places should be easy enough. LPS 3 seems to indicate a two year window so that may be preferable all depends on how much time you want to spend in vs under them

On the subject of hidden places - make sure drains are open, make sure that there is no member that is fully enclosed - make sure it can breath, a metal part doesn't need to get wet temperature change will wet it for you so make sure that moisture can get out too. Very much a how far do you go and how committed are you conversation.

 

I have been using a product called Sharkhide on bare metal parts during my XJS restoration.
https://sharkhide.com/

 

You got it right. No part of the aircraft will go more than a year without being inspected. That's the maximum. And yes it will flow easily into any crevices. I always prefer sprays. If you want more permanent layer that can be brushed on check out Black Bear Par-Al-Ketone (1 qt.). We use that on exposed bolts that are in the weather and it forms a black layer over top. It needs mineral spirits to remove. Would be perfect for the underside of the car.

 

Not sure what it is in the US but I found it in the UK for over £100 per quart - less than a litre - that is expensive, very expensive - looks good though

 

Wooooooow. Yeah never mind then haha. Here it's $55 ish which is about 40 pounds.

 

Thanks for the information regarding different products for different applications. Now I need to know what part can have the protective coating like Shark Skin. Can the entire wheel hubs including where the tire is bolted onto the hub have rust protection applied, drive shaft that bolts directly on to the differential and transmission plates. I want to make sure I do not put a product part that is to be bolted tight to another part that should not have a barrier between two parts.

 

I would not apply anything between parts that are getting firmly bolted together. Apply after the assembly is complete.