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Question aout bonnet lift struts

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Old 07-08-2017, 05:23 PM
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Default Question aout bonnet lift struts

In both of my cars ('85 and '86) the bonnet gas struts cannot hold the bonnet in raised position. I am trying to see if I can mix and match the struts to get one pair that is working. (And achieve it with minimum number of iterations )

My donor car has the bonnet already off and the struts are easily accessible. The LHS strut is in "extended" position (long):


The RHS strut stays "compressed" (short):


Which one of them is supposed to be in working order?

Also, on the second car, where the struts are still connected to the bonnet, is there a way to correctly "guess" the side with the bad strut (before disconnecting both of them)?
 
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Old 07-08-2017, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by v1rok
In both of my cars ('85 and '86) the bonnet gas struts cannot hold the bonnet in raised position. I am trying to see if I can mix and match the struts to get one pair that is working. (And achieve it with minimum number of iterations )

My donor car has the bonnet already off and the struts are easily accessible. The LHS strut is in "extended" position (long):


The RHS strut stays "compressed" (short):


Which one of them is supposed to be in working order?

Also, on the second car, where the struts are still connected to the bonnet, is there a way to correctly "guess" the side with the bad strut (before disconnecting both of them)?
compressed in static position = stuffed
 
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Old 07-08-2017, 07:23 PM
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Thanks. I interpret stuffed = bad?
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 03:36 AM
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Hi V1rok

I've had Bonnet/Hood Strut Problems on my Cars as well but 'Jonathan' had a neat idea that not only Solved that problem for just a few Cents.

But also made it Safer by preventing it from Crashing down in a gust of wind.

All you need is a piece of Tube Metal or Plastic that will slide over the Strut, just a tad shorter than the Chromium Piston.

Then when you lift the Bonnet/Hood, just slide the Tube into position and that will prevent the damper from compressing if your dampers were 'shot away' like mine were.

The Photo should explain all.



I used a piece of Chrome Plated Tube in order to lock my 'dodgy damper' in place.
Credit goes to 'Jonathan' for such a great idea.
 
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Old 07-10-2017, 01:32 PM
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This is not a complicated issue even though so many people make it out to be? The number of "mods" I have seen for this "issue" boggles the mind.

Go to local auto store, buy struts, put them on, be done for likely a decade or more.


The strut being extended doesn't tell you anything if it isn't under load, what matters is the resistance to compression. It could be extended under zero load but fail to hold up the hood. How do you know which side is bad? Look at the hood and see if its lower on one side vs the other. Press lightly and see if the hood is too willing to close on a respective side. You do know the already compressed one is toast.
Once they finally wear out, just replace them. You don't buy rubber window stripping and attempt to make windshield wipers when they go bad, you just buy new ones and pop them on. I replaced mine in 2010 and they are still fine.
 

Last edited by sidescrollin; 07-10-2017 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:20 PM
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Sidescrollin has the solution... I did come up with that lock for the struts...
But with in the month I did, I skipped a lunch or two at work and bought new struts bonnet and trunk.... ( ok maybe more than two skipping of the lunches )
 
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Old 07-21-2017, 05:16 AM
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get a couple very small screw type clamps, undo them slip over the rod, leave them on, when you raise the lid tighten with standard screw driver, loosen to let down. If no screw driver handy I use a dime.
 
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Old 02-27-2018, 10:45 PM
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Just replace them. Amazon has them. They're on ebay too. Very easy and uncomplicated fix.
 
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Old 02-28-2018, 07:37 AM
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I need the bonnet and the boot struts, anyone have a link to purchase ?
 
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Old 02-28-2018, 10:01 AM
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I'm with Sidescrollin. The struts on the hatch of my jeep went limp, a bit at a time. Easy. A fresh pair from Rockauto. Forgot the price. But, not a bank buster or even close. I did have to "splurge" on a set of 1/4" drive Torx sockets.


Only, small bump was holding the rather heavy hatch up while I swapped out the struts. A long extension and my drill driver made it easier.


Carl
 
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Old 02-28-2018, 08:02 PM
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I thought the left strut was a locking type strut. Right side was normal gas type.
 
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Old 03-01-2018, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by carsnplanes
I thought the left strut was a locking type strut. Right side was normal gas type.
Mine are gas.
 
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Old 03-03-2018, 12:06 PM
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rockauto.com
 
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Old 03-03-2018, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by carsnplanes
I thought the left strut was a locking type strut. Right side was normal gas type.
The 'locking' lift support was introduced sometime in 1992 MY cars.
(From VIN (184672)) BEC15544

bob
 
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Old 03-08-2018, 11:03 AM
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Got a good chuckle seeing all of these "fixes" and workarounds for what is a simple and easy task; replacement of a part that is a 'wear item' and is meant to be replaced eventually and is inexpensive and easily found. Amazon and ebay are your friends. Jag specific parts websites are great too if they even have what you need or have it for less than an arm+leg.
 
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Old 03-09-2018, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Benj628
Got a good chuckle seeing all of these "fixes" and workarounds for what is a simple and easy task;
Yes. The OEM ones are made by Sachs and on Rockauto are $45 and $51 for non-locking and locking respectively. You can get aftermarket ones for under $20.
 
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Old 03-10-2018, 04:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Jagboi64
Yes. The OEM ones are made by Sachs and on Rockauto are $45 and $51 for non-locking and locking respectively. You can get aftermarket ones for under $20.
For our UK and Continental readers, there is a great firm called SGS Engineering who will make the correct strut for you, including uprating it by 15 or 20% if you so wish. Cheaper than OEM and far better: https://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts
Greg
 
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