Re-visiting high idol
The TPS cannot hold the capstan open
I
The cable moves quite easily in both directions when I push/pull on it. Same for the cruise control cable.
No kinks or tight corners.
As I mentioned I did lubricate both by spraying PB Blaster down the cable housings and then working the cables back and forth numerous times.
No issues detected at the pedal inside the car either.
I really think my issue is with the airbox/butterfly housing connections. Some disassembly will required but its not complicated. Just time consuming.
Yep, its a bit sticky but on the bright side it really cleans out your pours playing golf. Cheers!!
The cable moves quite easily in both directions when I push/pull on it. Same for the cruise control cable.
No kinks or tight corners.
As I mentioned I did lubricate both by spraying PB Blaster down the cable housings and then working the cables back and forth numerous times.
No issues detected at the pedal inside the car either.
I really think my issue is with the airbox/butterfly housing connections. Some disassembly will required but its not complicated. Just time consuming.
Yep, its a bit sticky but on the bright side it really cleans out your pours playing golf. Cheers!!
"cleans out your pours playing golf." - yeh right - even in the mid 80's I hide in a refrigerator .... but then I walk around in a T whilst many are wrapped up for the arctic - ya see me wearing a coat stay home ...
My defective memory, apologies!
Not necessary to apologise, the tps would need to be pretty badly installed, the Bourne is likely to break - so even though possible in this case not likely I think. I did do an experiment last night and it would cause a gap considerably larger than was indicated here - and I broke a Bourne by letting the capstan return too fast.
UPDATE: The high idle vacuum leak on the '86 has been successfully solved. I swapped out the B bank intake manifold with a spare. Two bolt connections partially were stripped, one for the air filter box and the other on the butterfly housing. I then fine tuned the idle down to the 750 range with the AAV adjuster bolt. Bled the brakes, greased up the suspension and off we went. Car runs terrific with the new transmission. No hesitation, no stalls. Power is smooth up and back down under braking. Thanks to all for the input. I m going to declare victory on this issue.
Last two items for this car are: 1) No power to the wiper motor. All the fuse box connectors have power except number #'s 9 & 11 which control the wipers and the fluid pump. This has me stumped. (the wiper motor has been tested and is good). 2) Need to replace the Hi speed fan relay. Need the high volume of air flow to drive comfortably in the summer heat.
This is a very nice car that will soon need a new home.
Last two items for this car are: 1) No power to the wiper motor. All the fuse box connectors have power except number #'s 9 & 11 which control the wipers and the fluid pump. This has me stumped. (the wiper motor has been tested and is good). 2) Need to replace the Hi speed fan relay. Need the high volume of air flow to drive comfortably in the summer heat.
This is a very nice car that will soon need a new home.
Brad
It can frequently happen that the fuse live side has power, and sometimes the fuse output side seems to; but the fuse holder spring, or the fuse itself, is just slightly corroded, hardly visible, enough to not transmit current.
Try a new fuse and some deoxit on the copper sprung blades that hold the fuse, and pinch the blades together a bit to improve their grip.
It can frequently happen that the fuse live side has power, and sometimes the fuse output side seems to; but the fuse holder spring, or the fuse itself, is just slightly corroded, hardly visible, enough to not transmit current.
Try a new fuse and some deoxit on the copper sprung blades that hold the fuse, and pinch the blades together a bit to improve their grip.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)








