So my drive is now disturbed by the horrid clunking as I drive over bumps again. I had the front bushes replaced 3 years ago. Damit !

Is this a job better done in a workshop or can it be done DIY ?

 

What did you replace them with three years ago?

if you used the OEM orange foam bushes, I can't say I'm surprised.

if you used any kind of aftermarket rubber, then I am surprised. Check to see if you can torque down the top nuts. Maybe they've gotten loose?

 

Also, in my experience, the lower shock bolts have to be very tight....tighter than you'd imagine...or they'll clunk. Same with the diagonal fender braces.

Replacing the upper shock bushes is DIY-able, yes, if that's what it comes down to

Cheers
DD

 

Do you mean the Torx bolts?
According to the manual, they are supposed to be torqued at 175 Nm.
But undoing them is often more challenging because of seizure...

 

I'm referring to item #8 in this illustration:

Shock Absorber and Spring-Front-5.3 Litre - Parts For XJS from (V)139052 to (V)179736 | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

According to my Jag manual the spec is 54-74 Nm (40-45 lb/ft)

Cheers
DD

 

There are two 'catches".


1. Securing the shaft from turning. TORX head at the top? Some just have two flats opposite. I have a neat socket filled with stiff wires along the long axis. They slip over difficult fasteners. Twisting tightens the grip. Sorta like the old straw Chinese finger puzzles.


2. The rubber bushes have a top and bottom. The bottom having a shoulder that fits into the hoe in the wing wall through which the shaft protrudes. Upside down eads to a mystery clunk!


I found a pair that fit my car a long time ago, in bubble pack marked for a Ford. Why they found their way there long forgotten.


A few decades ago, I was swapping in new shocks for my Chrysler Cordoba. Shaft grip problem came up. Radical fix. I just cut the d... shaft with my "blue wrench".


I suspect the pro's do it that way. Production thing.


As in removing coil springs to be replaced with new. Jut whack 'em with the blue wrench in a couple of places. Safe, no need to do special tools.


My tanks are empty, kind amiss them....


Carl

 

doug i had those diagonal cross braces loosen slightly, so this cross bar tightened the complete front section.

been fine for years!

 

Hi Malc

On the assumption its just the Top Shock Absorber Bushes that need replacing (which more often than not is the cause of the 'Clunking')

This is one of the easier jobs to do on an XJS.

I can replace the Top Bushes on both Shocks in well under an Hour, where the only Problem that you may encounter is undoing the Nut on the Top of the Shock

Absorbers.

So best to give them a Spray in advance of doing the job with WD or Penetrating Oil.

You don't have to take the Front Wheels off but if you have never done it before its easier if you do.

(1) Undo the Top Nut of the Shock Absorber Bushes under the Bonnet/Hood

(2) Remove the Old Rubber Bush with its Two Cup Washers (Remember how they go back)

(3) Get your hands under the Wheel Arch and get hold of the Shock Absorber and Pull it down as far as you can.

(4) While you hold the Shock Absorber down with one hand, Slip the Old Rubber Bush with its Two Cup Washers off. (Remember how they go back)

(5) Slowly allow the Shock Absorber to extend again but make sure that the Threaded Top goes back in the hole. (or you could end up denting the body work!)

(6) Put the New Rubber Bushes between the Washers you removed.

(7) Pull Down the Shock Absorber from underneath the Wheel Arch (The same as you did before)

(8) Hold it down while you Slip on the Cup Washers you took off, with the New Rubber Bushes in between.

(9) Slowly allow the Shock Absorber to extend back into the hole (The Same as you did before)

(10) Get back under the Bonnet/Hood and replace the Two Cup Washers, with the New Rubber Bush in between.

(11) Replace the Nut and you're done!

If you decide to remove the Front Wheels, then support the Front Wishbone with a Small Jack.

WARNING! If you use the Jack to lift the Shock Absorber up, MAKE SURE the End goes in the Hole it came out of, as if you don't watch what you're doing.

You could Poke a hole through the Front Wing/Fender.



The Biggest Problem in Changing the Top Shock Absorber Bushes, is undoing this Nut.
Get Soaking it in Penetrating Oil.
Sometimes it comes undone easy, sometimes not.



The Hole the Shock Absorber Thread just came out of.



Another View of the Front Shock Absorber Mounting Hole.



An Old Shock Absorber Bush with its Cup Washers.



I don't buy Top Shock Absorber Bushes anymore, now I make my own.

 

have tried many types, these seem very good and dont crack or crumble loose!

 

SUPER Thanks guys.
So the ones from Jag are shyte then ? Looking at those brilliant pics and writeup,OB even l should be able to change them out.

 

Hi Malc

Once you've got those Top Nuts undone, You'll be 'laughing sandbags!' and when you put them back use copper grease.

One of those jobs that you can do and never reach the point of no return.

 

Agree with Malc,
Thanks loads to Ronbros
and Orangeblossom for their super helpful posts, even I might try this myself next time.

Certainly these were the cause of dreadful clonking noises from the front suspension on mine.

Ron, are those Poly bushes?

Orangeblossom, could you give details of what you make your bushes out of please ?
​​​​​​​

 

the Moog bushes are a proprietry material, they say developed after many years of R&D.

they have supplied bushes and suspension parts to the USA factories, since the 1930s.

ron

 

Hi Paul

When I finally got my Grey XJS back on the Road after a long lay up, I took her for an MOT at a Local Garage just in case She failed.

And though She Passed with Flying Colours, they Completely missed the Shock Absorber Bushes which had disintegrated to the point that they were non

existent.

Ironically the 'Tester' made a comment on the 'Graunching Noise' and because my knowledge of XJS's was Zero at the time, it took me several Weeks to find the

Problem.

And although I was going to buy some, there is an Amazing Place near me, that sells all kinds of Rubber and Plastic Extrusions.

So after asking their advice they gave me a strip of what they thought would be the nearest one to OEM which I then cut out on my drill press with a hole saw.

Fitting them is so easy to do (as long as you can get those nuts undone) that it wasn't long before I swapped them for some firmer ones.

Which made a massive difference to the handling and now She Corners on rails.

Strips of Rubber don't cost much which means you can experiment until you get the handling just right.

 

years ago when we needed a good rigid bushing we made them from aluminum.

my XJS had the mushy steering rack bushes rubber factory type.

i made new ones from aluminum, been 22yrs, no probs.

and steering response is nice tight and quick.

other bushes could be done that way, depends on your needs, and ride quality you like!

 

Whew?


Much more secluded in the SJs than in my XJ wuzza six! Rust and corrosion not an issue in my swap.


That great write up would've taken me a lot more time to compose than to do the swap. !!


I've two ailing cars here to deal with. Not the Jaguar, it is purring....


1. 94 Grand Cherokee Jeep. Cranks healthily now. But does not fire up. Studies done as to causes, diagnosis and fixes. Fuel or ignition issue ???


2. Daughter's 2001 VW V6 powered Passat. Will run, but misses and outright stalls at inopportune times. I'm attacking the ignition possibility. Plugs wires and coil pack to install + cam cover gasket on one bank. Hope??? Lottsa of it...
An OBD II code reader revealed misfires on occasions on 5 of its six cylinders. If the ignition renewal fails, then injectors and cam position sensor...


Carl

 

Yes. Anytime you see orange foam bushings in a Jag, consider them shyte.

There's one that exists in the transmission mount as well...

 

Hi Ron

Cheers!

I think I will give that a go, if I ever need them.

 

So l attacked this job today and it really is easy(ish). I would add that having a 2 poster car lift helped and an impact driver helps as trying to stop the damper turning with a socket set is nearly impossible. Took me longer to clean and repaint the washers etc. than doing the job.

Thanks OB

So.. do l put the new Jag parts in or the moog as suggested above........ahhhhhhgggg

 

Moog.

You said it yourself, it was an easy job. If you want to do this again next year, go ahead and put the Jag part in. If you already spent the money, do it. If you haven't bought either yet, just get the Moog and "set it and forget it".