XJS ( X27 ) 1975 - 1996 3.6 4.0 5.3 6.0

Rear cage drop

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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 06:15 PM
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Default Rear cage drop

Evening all, in the not too distant future i am going to drop the rear cage down on my 4.0 inboard disc. 1991.i need to adjust the handbrake calipers and was hoping i could lower it low enough to gain acess through the cut outs in the top of the cage without taking it completely from the car.if it is possible to do this, does anyone have a list of things to disconect and in which order. Thanks in advance for any help
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by brinny
Evening all, in the not too distant future i am going to drop the rear cage down on my 4.0 inboard disc. 1991.i need to adjust the handbrake calipers and was hoping i could lower it low enough to gain acess through the cut outs in the top of the cage without taking it completely from the car.if it is possible to do this, does anyone have a list of things to disconect and in which order. Thanks in advance for any help
They should be self adjusting. Are you sure pads are still in place and serviceable?
I can understand dropping the cage for a full service of all the parts of the rear end but for a simple handbrake service I would be inclined to do it in place.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 08:33 PM
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I'm assuming the handbrakes don't work?

As mentioned they're self adjusting.....IF the mechanism hasn't seized up from gunk and lack of use. In my experience the only fix is to remove the handbrake calipers for a full strip down, cleaning, and lubricating. Common issue.

It takes some patience but they can be removed with the cage in place. After removing the bolts (which are like long pins, really, with a threaded section) and the cable, the calipers are rolled aft and dropped out thru the bottom of the cage. The tie plate must be removed.

Reinstallation is reverse of the above....but getting the pins in the holes and the spreader fingers in place might drive a man to drink. But, it's certainly doable.

If they pads are missing or broken there's a good archived article about modifying them to make future failure less likely.

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 02:41 AM
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Thanks for the help. I should have explained i have had the cage out in the past and had everything refurbed or replaced. I made the mistake of not adjusting the calipers up close enough to the discs and now everything works but the handbrake is weak. As its a manual car i need to be effective.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 02:45 AM
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Brinny, if you want to do a really good job, this may help. The handbrake is at best, not up to much OEM, mainly because the attachment of the handbrake pad to its backing plate is pathetic. Leaving the car in gear is a wise precaution... a bit like Park in an automatic (but I expect you knew that!). It is a bit of effort, but the difference is truly amazing.
Greg
 
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Handbrake improvement final.pdf (1.12 MB, 111 views)

Last edited by Greg in France; Feb 1, 2017 at 02:48 AM.
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by brinny
Thanks for the help. I should have explained i have had the cage out in the past and had everything refurbed or replaced. I made the mistake of not adjusting the calipers up close enough to the discs and now everything works but the handbrake is weak. As its a manual car i need to be effective.
In that case exercising the handbrake caliper arms through their entire arc of movement should close up the excess clearance. It may help if you disengage the cable and the return springs from those arms to do it.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 10:31 AM
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By exercising them , if I release the cable and springs do I then just squeeze them together by hand? And can this be done with the cage in place?

Thanks to all for their help by the way
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by brinny
By exercising them , if I release the cable and springs do I then just squeeze them together by hand? And can this be done with the cage in place?

Thanks to all for their help by the way

Yes.

It'll be like operating a ratchet, sort of.

But.......

I would leave the cable connected. It's been a few years....others with a better memory will chime in.... but as I recall if you adjust the calipers with the cable removed you'll have hell to pay getting it reattached. I think I made that mistake once !

In few days I'll be at this crossroads myself so a memory refresher (before making another mistake) would be welcomed

Cheers
DD
 

Last edited by Doug; Feb 1, 2017 at 02:04 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 12:19 PM
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So will i be able to get my hand in and just ratchet them up? Sorry for sounding thick but if you dont know you dont know! I thought i might have to take the split pin out.? Hope not
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by brinny
So will i be able to get my hand in and just ratchet them up?

That's it ! You'll be able so sense when the adjustment is taken up; don't be tempted to go any further


Sorry for sounding thick but if you dont know you dont know! I thought i might have to take the split pin out.? Hope not

Nope, no need to remove the split pin.


But, let's wait till other chime in. As I said, it's been many years since I last did any of this.....I don't want my old memory cells to lead you down the garden path

Cheers
DD
 
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 04:50 PM
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Well i hope your right doug.that would save a lot of needless work. Love this forum the help is incredible. Been away from the cars on holiday for a couple of weeks and when i walked in the unit thought immediately yes its all worth it. Ive sold my 3.6 to a very lucky irishman in dublin but still with me for another couple of months.if i had the room id have 20 xjs a couple of xk8 6 xkrs and then some of the newer stuff lol
 
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Old Feb 3, 2017 | 08:49 AM
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Just to confirm, if I leave the cable on do I remove the return springs and can I ratchet each individually? Also is the longest part of the Caliper I move and how will I know to stop? Cheers
 
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