Rear wheel camber shims. How much in degree's do individual shims change the settings? Pre facelift inboard brake car.

 

According to the ROM he shims are .020" thick and each shim will give a ¼º change

Cheers
DD

 

cheers Doug so looking at this I need 1 on 1 side and 2 on other, would you say. I did the front a couple of years ago

 

Rex
Negative is good, you have just a tiny amount. I would take out at least 3 each side and the handling, particularly in the wet, will be vastly improved. Anything up to 0.75 of a degree is good, I have found.

 

actually Greg this was done after I took all shims out to fit bigger tyres to stop them rubbing the arch when car was loaded

 

Technically the rear camber is out of spec, but unless you drive the car pretty darn hard, you will not notice the difference. Under hard cornering, you will have slightly more oversteer than you would if camber were more negative. Tire wear will not be an issue. Adding any shims to the rear will make it more positive, that is not what you want. If I were to change anything, it would be the camber on the LF.

 

So my Left Rear Camber is at -0.2 and my Right Rear Camber is at -0.3

I have lost some control in the rain, under light conditions, when making a sharp turn, at low speed. I've always blamed the tires. Do you think the camber should be adjusted?

 

No, the camber is fine; if anything take a shim out each side to make it more negative, which will improve rear grip on corners. The tyres' grip in rain is the tyres, not the camber.

 

The service manual makes it sound very straight forward.
1. Remove setting links (as if I had those!)
2. Jack car up and slacken the universal joint cover
3. Remove four self locking nuts securing drive shaft flange to the brake discs.
Done. Remove drive shaft flange to adjust number of shims installed. Looks like I’ll want to remove one 0.20 thick shim.

Any reason to believe it’ll be tougher than that?

 

No, exactly that, except for the setting links! The flange nuts can be a bear, turning the driveshaft to get the best angle for the socket is a good tip. I have found the nuts at about 5 to or 5 past 12 is best. Also a long extension so you can stand outside the hub helps, as does a wobbleend on the socket extension
I would spray the studs/nuts with de-gripper for 24 hours too. You really do not want to sheer a flange sud! A rattlegun if they are refusing is a must; just more grunt on the nuts is a no-no.