Hi everyone, I'm working on my rear subframe, adding the shocks and looking for explanations/opinions.
After torquing the upper attach bolt I find the shock cannot pivot with suspension movement as the bushing is clamped solid against the subframe mounts and the rubber is in torsion.
This will affect the suspension stiffness, deteriorating with time.
Am attaching a pdf diagram of the situation.
(I'm tempted to install a slightly longer spacer so the shock is free to rotate)
Questions: (FYI spacers are stock Jaguar items)
1. Is this how Jaguar intended it?
2. If yes, what is the spacer for ? it seems like a superfluous piece.
Any opinions ??

 

When i did mine, i am pretty sure I torqued with the car on the ground (jack under hub).

should not be torqued while fully extended.

 

The shock when done up in the top mounts is pretty solid. It should not be done up tight until the bottom mounts are also in place.
Provided the spacer tube that goes inside the shock eye is in place, all will be well.

The shock top eye bush should has a steel centre tube in it, as delivered, in addition to the Jaguar spacer tube that you have to fit before the bolt goes in. The bushes are designed to flex as the shock moves, the amount of angular movement is VERY small remember. Metalastic bushes are not designed to swivel at the centre of the bush, they are designed to flex to accomodate movement, and the centre of the bush to remain fixed.

If you look at the front suspension biottom wishbone inner fulcrum bush, it is the same metalastik "bush accomodate the movement" design.

This is unlike poly bushes, that are designed to swivel on their centre tube.

 

You're over thinking it. They dont pivot enough to matter. I''ve removed shocks from original 50 year old cars that were badly rusted and failed long ago and the top rubber mount was fine.

 

Firstly, thanks for taking the time to reply.
Perhaps I'm over thinking this, as icsamerica suggested.
It all came about because I', working on the s/frame out of the car and the suspension is in full droop so the shocks need to pivot to connect..
It seems like a pain in the neck to have to wait until the s/frame is in the car, suspension at correct ride height, to then torque the upper bolts.
My days with Heim jointed single seaters mean I look sideways at installations with limited movement/rubber bushes in torsion.

 

For the rear shocks, the car does not have to be on its wheels before the top bolt is tightened. Just as long as the bottom eyes are connected to the lower wishbone, all will be well.

NOTE: for the radius arms though, the car does have to be on its wheels before the bolt attaching the lower wishbone to the arm is tightened up, and the large end that attaches to the car is also easier to fit if the weight is on the wheels.