Just had my tracking checked and my nearside rear wheel is toeing in is it a simple job to fit a shim in the rear lower arm where it bolts to the diff to fit an extra shim in to adjust the rear toe in/out?

 

How badly is it out of spec? The rear toe is not adjustable. Because the lower wishbone inner fulcrums are fixed in relation to each other, pulling one side forward or back somehow, will also change the other.

Once you let us know the size of the problem, it might be something as simple as running in unforgiving new large radius arm bushes.

 

You might have bad inner fulcrum bearings too. They rust, stop spinning, the wear oval on the inside.

 

THE GUY WHO DID THE CHECK WAS AN EX JAGUAR MAN and he said i need the thinest shim on the rear fulcrum joint as it was probable lost when its had work done in the past,
here is the print out, i did the front toe in, but the numbers mean nothing to me

 

Rex
The final line of the print out is the rear toe. Both sides are in spec and 0.07 of a degree difference is WELL within the measurement accuracy and repeatabilty tolerance range of the equipment. Your rear toe is PERFECT.
As is, I might add the rear negative camber, whatever the red part says!
You have been fed pure moonbeams (ie BS).
Drive it, enjoy it.

 

Cheers Greg.

 

RGP- your ex jag man knew exactly what he’s talking about. I forgot all about those shims. Unfortunately the bolt head is hidden behind the inner fulcrum shaft. Total PITA!

 

Not to get into an argument, I assure you; but those shims behind the dog bone are not there to adjust the rear toe, they are there to align precisely the four holes that the rear inner fulcrum pin must go through (cage/dog bone/dog bone/cage) in order to get the fulcrum pin properly inserted and thus the inner fulcrum bearings and the lower suspension wishbone working stress free and smoothly.
But of course, as you say, the dog bone shims and bolts cannot be changed or tightened or undone without completely disassembling the lot.

 

I agree the shims are not intended to adjust the toe (and what a hellish procedure it would be if they were) but the absence of the shims could really screw toe and caster up!

 

Yeh/Nah.

The inner fulcrum pins are firmly located into the cradle itself.

The "dogbones" position the diff unit lower mounting.

Unless the heavy pin washers welded into the cradle come adrift, those inner pins, and the inner fulcrum eye (with needle rollers), is in a fixed position.

Wear, obviously, will allow things to flop around. Missing shims, loose dogbone bolts, basically allows the diff unit to "clunk around", being the noise often heard when moving from R to D and back again.

None of my inboard brake cars have ever had those dogbone bolts tight, from way back in the MK X days.