Rear wheel wobbles. 1994XJS 4.0 convertible 2x2
Help please. A horrible sound was coming I thought from the drivers wheel. I was told front brake pads. What a relief the first inexpensive repair, ordered the best brake pads and had them put in. The sound was still there. After inspecting the rear, it was noted the rotor was being worn off and the whole piece would wobble. My guy thinks it might have some to do with the middle nut broke. He mentioned if air tools were use on it, it could cause the loose wobble. I have pictures of the rotor. Any ideas on what to do now
Help please. A horrible sound was coming I thought from the drivers wheel. I was told front brake pads. What a relief the first inexpensive repair, ordered the best brake pads and had them put in. The sound was still there. After inspecting the rear, it was noted the rotor was being worn off and the whole piece would wobble. My guy thinks it might have some to do with the middle nut broke. He mentioned if air tools were use on it, it could cause the loose wobble. I have pictures of the rotor. Any ideas on what to do now
Terrie,
As you probably know, the rear disc isn't held on by that centre nut.
I would try backing off the handbrake shoes a bit, check that the disc is turning freely and not touching the handbrake shoes, then turn it and see if it runs out of true. if it's turning straight, then put the wheel on and see if the noise has gone. If it has, then apply and release the handbrake a few times to readjust and see if noise returns.
If the disc is running out of true, then remove it, clean the mating flange and reinstall it and see if it is still out of true.
Good luck
Paul
As you probably know, the rear disc isn't held on by that centre nut.
I would try backing off the handbrake shoes a bit, check that the disc is turning freely and not touching the handbrake shoes, then turn it and see if it runs out of true. if it's turning straight, then put the wheel on and see if the noise has gone. If it has, then apply and release the handbrake a few times to readjust and see if noise returns.
If the disc is running out of true, then remove it, clean the mating flange and reinstall it and see if it is still out of true.
Good luck
Paul
Hi!
I just went through a similar problem on our 94 XJS.
See this post.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-stuck-155854/
I would definitely pull the rotor/drum off to check the condition of the emergency/parking brake shoes.
You may need new rotor/drums
(DO NOT GET VENTED ROTORS They do not FIT a 94 XJS!) and brake shoes.
You may as well replace the disk calipers, pads and hoses while you are at it.
You thought you were going to get away with it without spending much, eh?
Your credit cards will start to overheat a little. But, not too much.
Ha ! Remember this is a Jaguar! At least it is not a BMW or a Mercedes.
Parts costs for those marques are very pricey.
The rear brake work is best done on a lift because there are areas that require
physical access to the differential area for inspection and adjustment of the
emergency/parking brake lever assy.
It also helps in getting better access to the rear of the rear brake assemblies.
There is a large Phillips head screw that holds the rotor in place on the wheel shaft.
Remove the disk caliper assy, the phillips screw and the rotor may come off with no
problems.
You may have to back off on the emergency/parking brake adjustment in the rear
of the brake assy if the rotor will not come off. You may have to back it off a lot.
Have Fun and POR - Press On Regardless !
I just went through a similar problem on our 94 XJS.
See this post.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-stuck-155854/
I would definitely pull the rotor/drum off to check the condition of the emergency/parking brake shoes.
You may need new rotor/drums
(DO NOT GET VENTED ROTORS They do not FIT a 94 XJS!) and brake shoes.
You may as well replace the disk calipers, pads and hoses while you are at it.
You thought you were going to get away with it without spending much, eh?
Your credit cards will start to overheat a little. But, not too much.
Ha ! Remember this is a Jaguar! At least it is not a BMW or a Mercedes.
Parts costs for those marques are very pricey.
The rear brake work is best done on a lift because there are areas that require
physical access to the differential area for inspection and adjustment of the
emergency/parking brake lever assy.
It also helps in getting better access to the rear of the rear brake assemblies.
There is a large Phillips head screw that holds the rotor in place on the wheel shaft.
Remove the disk caliper assy, the phillips screw and the rotor may come off with no
problems.
You may have to back off on the emergency/parking brake adjustment in the rear
of the brake assy if the rotor will not come off. You may have to back it off a lot.
Have Fun and POR - Press On Regardless !
The rotor is held in place by the lug nuts. Your pictures show that the rotor is just sitting on the hub. Put on at least two lug nuts and see if the rotor still moves. If it does, I would suspect that it is the bearing.
I could not see the large phillips screw that holds the rotor/drum assy to the wheel shaft
in your photos. This phillips screw keeps the rotor/drum in position when
putting the wheels back on the wheel shaft.
The hole on the rotor/drum you see in the photos is for adjusting the emergency/parking brake assembly.
The adjustment access hole has to be close to a 12-oclock position to access the
adjustment wheel inside with a brake adjustment tool or a flat blade screwdriver.
You have to have the transmission in neutral to move the rotor/drum by hand.
Use a plastic or wooden lever on the lugs to avoid damage to the threads on the lug
bolts in order to move the rotor/drums adjustment access hole to the correct position.
You can then back-off the brake shoe from the drum.
I would definitely remove the rotor/drums and inspect the drums and the shoes.
Especially if they have never been removed and inspected before.
Regards and POR - Press On Regardless
in your photos. This phillips screw keeps the rotor/drum in position when
putting the wheels back on the wheel shaft.
The hole on the rotor/drum you see in the photos is for adjusting the emergency/parking brake assembly.
The adjustment access hole has to be close to a 12-oclock position to access the
adjustment wheel inside with a brake adjustment tool or a flat blade screwdriver.
You have to have the transmission in neutral to move the rotor/drum by hand.
Use a plastic or wooden lever on the lugs to avoid damage to the threads on the lug
bolts in order to move the rotor/drums adjustment access hole to the correct position.
You can then back-off the brake shoe from the drum.
I would definitely remove the rotor/drums and inspect the drums and the shoes.
Especially if they have never been removed and inspected before.
Regards and POR - Press On Regardless
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