Good morning, everyone!
I am slowly (and hopefully methodically) working through sorting my 1987 XJS, and I have just had the radiator re-cored. The guy did a beautiful job, but the new paint has gotten into the threads of the banjo bolt, and the gearbox cooling lines. Is there an easy (or at least excellent) means to remove this paint without damaging the threads, etc.? I will want to make sure that the sealing surfaces of any fittings are also clean and ready for a good seal. I had considered a small wirebrush for my Dremel tool? I have some concerns that the wirebrush might be too "scratchy", but am not sure that a liquid paint remover would be easy to work with on the internal threads portion.... especially the internal threads for the banjo bolt....
Any suggestions?

Fresh from shop, re-cored!

 

Dremel with wire brush sounds OK for this BUT the danger is that some of the tiny wires will break off (they often do) and end up inside the transmission cooler. If you can devise a method of preventing that possibility, you should be fine

Cheers
DD

 

Maybe put a small rag or tissue with some grease on it carefully inside the boss.

Then use a bolt or a tap, also coated with grease, and gently work it forward and back on the threads to remove the paint and dress the threads.

The grease on both the bolt / tap should hold the paint chips, along with the greased rag, you've put inside the boss. (Don't forget to tease it out!)

Good luck

Paul

 

I can’t remember, are they straight threads or tapered pipe threads? I think they’re straight but I’m not sure. If they are just run the correct size tap through and that will clean the threads.

 

Carefully applied paint stripper with a Q-tip might do.

 

I just had mine recored this week as well! I have the 6 cylinder, but I was wondering how much you were charged for your recore? I ended up paying $800!

 

I used CitriStrip Gel applied with a Q-tip. Two advantages to the CitriStrip -- the gel is thick and doesn't drip, additionally it's water soluble. Meaning it can wiped off with a wet Q-tip or rag, and rinsed with water afterward.

 

This re-core cost me $950!

 

Thanks for all the good ideas! The paint stripper/Q-tip combo seems like it might be the best, I do have some concerns about the wire brush leaving some fine, broken pieces of wire hanging around.....

 

Yikes. I got them to add a drain valve as well!

There is an aluminum option for $750 at Wizard Cooling which gets thumbs up for fit. Supposedly, unlike the more mysterious options on eBay, it is a direct and perfect fit. With recores now costing over that, unless you want to keep the brass radiators (like I did), it's gonna be the most affordable solution.

 

I had considered an aluminum radiator, but have heard many stories of leaks, etc. It doesn't seem that they are as heavy-duty and reliable as the factory brass. Despite the cost, I am pretty happy with keeping the original radiator. This one was still working fine, and was 36 years old! I only re-cored it at the suggestion of Grant, Greg, and numerous other Gurus who recommend doing it as a matter of course, if the radiator is pulled for whatever reason....

 

I agree. For even money, I stuck with the brass, however, if I had to get another radiator, I would choose the aluminum over first purchasing someone's used brass radiator and then paying to have it recored.