I am stuck on a couple of items.

First: the tension adjuster for the power steering pump. The arm slides over the #14 stud with the built-in nut. The adjuster lock has a pivot bolt and nut. The bolt enters from the rear of the adjuster block. I have removed the nut on the front, but cannot get the bolt out. Unless it comes out I cannot get the eye of the adjuster off the #14 stud.

Is it threaded into the adjuster block? Or should it slide out? It turns, but does not seem to move fore and aft.

Next, the #12 bolt on the lower right side of the pump does not want to break loose. Is this bolt known for being corroded in place? 2 days of PB and I feel like I am going to snap it. What is part 4 in the diagram?

 

memory.

That block is a firm slide fit on the threaded eye bolt.

They rust up, grow together, etc. I made a "brew" many years ago 50/50 ATF and Diesel fuel.
Back off the lock nuts as far as possible, and allow that brew to get into the block hole.
Soak that area WELL, leave it till tomorrow, usually works.

When off, I usually CAREFULLY file that hole (chainsaw file), just to relieve it on the threads, NO metal as such, just a careful clean up.

 

It is important to loosen the bolt at the bottom of the P/S pump, and the bolt at the adjuster fitting on the top of the pump, and the adjuster nuts themselves, before trying to do anything further. If you have not done all of these, the eye you refer to can be jammed onto the no 14 stud.
Once all those are loosened, there should be some wiggle room to loosen the adjuster; both in and out on the stud and, very importantly, the P/S pump can be moved in and out sideways towards/away from the V, which will also loosen the adjuster eye, as the movement of the pump on its fulcrum bolt you have just loosened means the eye must rotate slightly on the stud.

 

Update today...

The nut on the PS pivot bolt completely rounded off. What fun

The pinch bolt came out of the adjuster block. Was able to remove the entire adjuster 1 step forward.

Both #14 and #12 snapped off. Very easily. 2 steps back.

I received a #3 pozi drive bit in the mail today, It does not fit. No room to swing a hammer for an impact driver as the AC condensor is still in the car. 0 steps in either direction.

So, should I drill it out? Or TIG a bolt onto it?

Gods, this is fun....

 

Scott
Access is key, things being where they are now. I would remove the condenser. Have a go with the hammer and tool on the pozi and see what's what.
If no other option drill off the pozi head, and get the pump off. The see how much of the broken off studs/bolts/pozi is left sticking out, if any. IF any is sticking out, get one of those newfangled induction heater coils round the stump and heat the sod REALLY hot. Let it cool, weld a nut on it and it should come out.
If it does come to drilling out the stud, I suggest a left hand set of drills, carefully drill out the stud using increasing sizes and with any luck at all the remains of the stud will suddenly unscrew on the drill bit. Rethreading the hole with a slightly larger size is quite doable, and use stainless fixings when you replace. I have had to do this on a water rail manifold bolt that broke off and it has held for years of hard engine running. Good quality drill bits are essential, and do NOT even think about using those hopeless 'extractor' thingies.

I just found this, the idea of the sacrificial screwdriver is that you can start on the unscrewing while the welding heat is still on the fitting, seems another worth trying idea.

 

i am with Greg here.

Access is a Mongrel when things go wrong.

I have removed that crank pulley, easy, and that helped.
One really got under my skin, 1st and last time doing the chain Boomerang in situ. Pulled the engine, 4 hours, and the access, wonderful.

 

Ok. I now have all the bolts either unscrewed or broken off.

The water crossover tube is removed.

How do I remove the water pump body from the block?

 

If every fixing is unscrewed/broken off, the a block of wood against the pulley or a sticking-out bit and a whack with a hammer on it should do it.

 

might be a bit late on advice for this one but as mentioned above access is everything. Much easier to do with the radiator out of the car.
Good time to refresh ALL hoses and belts, T-stats, check wiring connections, etc...

 

Alright. wooden block with a mallet loosened it. It would come off but for one bolt.

It is the one to the left of #12 in the diagram. Doesnt feel broken. But I have unwound it for at least 30 full turns, but it will not come off.

Is it like 8" long?

 

Scott
If you are undoing it, is the bolt actually getting further out of the block (easy to check by marking it at the block face)? If not, then what has happened is the treads in the ally block have given up and you are just rotating it.

If so, the thing has to be drilled out.

If the bolt IS actually coming out, keep going!

 

Going to be hrd to drill, as it rotates quite easily. I may try pulling it out with some force.

But I am starting to think the threads have pulled out.

 

How far did it unscrew before it started spinning free? The threads ate only about 3/4” deep in the block; if the head is 1/2” from the face, it may be corrosion and sealer keeping it from coming out easily. Mine was really rusty on the shank.

 

That was it. Vice grips and a pry bar got it out!

 

Now all the bolts are out except for the two studs on the left side (#15).

The pump will not slide out with the two studs in place. Feels like it is hitting on the harmonic damper.

I have tried removing the studs using double nuts. They will not budge

Should I try an induction heater to get them out? Or is there some trick to removing them?

 

The water pump is 2 pieces; the body with the bearing, and a back plate- the impeller is behind the backplate. I’ll bet the front part of the pump is what you have loose and that the backplate is still stuck to the timing cover- what is hanging up is that the impeller doesn’t fit through the backplate. The two pieces of the pump are only held together by hollow dowels.
The new pump will come assembled with a gasket between the halves.
I did not remove the damper, but you have to remove the crossover pipe…

 

I have the entire backplate loosened. I can move it forward about an inch, then it stops.

 

Yours is serpentine alternator belt, correct? Mine is v belt….maybe damper is different. If you get one stud out, the pump should be able to rotate. But you don’t want to destroy the stud. Maybe remove the damper if it’s in the way has less chance of damage.

 

Removing the damper seems awfully extreme. Are the studs removeable?

 

Yes they are. Problem is that they may be corroded in place and you don’t want to break one off. Can you actually see the water pump hitting the damper? I don’t recall any difficulties removing the damper to replace the crankshaft seal; it is somewhat unusual in that there is a collet between the damper and crank, and that there is a hex bolted to the damper over the retaining bolt (used to rotate the engine manually). Other than the extra parts, comes off the same as anything else I have worked on. And you won’t need to disturb the collet, you just want the damper off.